Heat Exchanger Air Duct

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
We have put together a fresh air ducting system that gathers fresh air at the nose of the Goblin and cleanly directs the air across the heat exchanger.

It uses two NACA ducts, one on either side, as far forward as possible where the air is undisturbed.
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After collecting the air it directs it through a silicone coupler that is attached to a fiberglass plenum mounted above the heat exchanger.
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We made a fiberglass mold from a 3D printed prototype and sent it to our fiberglass shop.
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Kit price is $225 plus shipping.

Kit includes :
1 fiberglass plenum
2 NACA ducts
2 silicone couplers
2 hose clamps
2 steel mounting brackets
18 3/16 inch rivets
4 1/4-20 BHCS
4 1/4-20 nyloc nuts
1 template for NACA duct cut out

If you would like to have your nose cut for the ducts before being shipped add $40.
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
For people who have not picked up their body work, will you be able to cut out the portion of the hood where the intakes go?
 

Adam

Administrator
Staff member
Does kit include NASA air ducts?

Brad
It does include the NACA ducts.

For people who have not picked up their body work, will you be able to cut out the portion of the hood where the intakes go?
We can cut the NACA duct holes for $40.

Do you supply a template for the cut out for NASA duct?

Brad
We will supply the template.

Are you ditching the fan with this setup?
Yes we are ditching the fan with this setup.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I like this setup alot better than the old way, but the size of the heat exchanger is still smaller than I prefer.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I think these vents will help out quite a bit, but I think you're right though. I'm currently running the stock setup without body work, and my IAT2 temps can average anywhere from 30-35 degrees higher than ambient. There have been several times that I've gone for a drive with an 85 degree air temp, and the IAT2s are almost 110 degrees after I get home. That's with driving the last couple miles very leisurely. This could very well be normal as I really have no previous experience with IATs. Based on what I'm reading from other Cobalt owners, these numbers are a bit high.

I think having the intercooler sit right above the intake manifold has something to do with the the heat soak rate too. There is quite a bit of heat that transfers from the engine through the air and through the mounting brackets.
 
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Brian74

Goblin Guru
I agree with the liquid to air cooler getting hot from the intake, especially with aluminum having high thermal conductivity. I plan to use a heat barrier on the bottom of mine.
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I think these vents will help out quite a bit, but I think you're right though. I'm currently running the stock setup without body work, and my IAT2 temps can average anywhere from 30-35 degrees higher than ambient. There have been several times that I've gone for a drive with an 85 degree air temp, and the IAT2s are almost 110 degrees after I get home. That's with driving the last couple miles very leisurely. This could very well be normal as I really have no previous experience with IATs. Based on what I'm reading from other Cobalt owners, these numbers are a bit high.

I think having the intercooler sit right above the intake manifold has something to do with the the heat soak rate too. There is quite a bit of heat that transfers from the engine through the air and through the mounting brackets.

You've seen our setup. I have monitored our IAT2 temps until I just got bored of them. They can't be thought of and related to what you would with engine temps.

The IATs will go up under extreme boost and especially constant and often high boost. The boost is what creates the heat, obviously. However, under normal daily driving, they will actually go down with fairly open throttle because of the fresh air will cool the intake tract and air (along with the sensor). When at idle, there is no boost but the temps will go back up because there is not much fresh air entering the intake. But as soon as you take off, the temps will go back down. Now some of this is actually just the lag of the sensor whereas the actual air temp may be slightly different.

I don't think you will ever find the IAT2 temps to be much closer to ambient than 20* F during summer weather. I constantly see 95-110 during 75-90 degree weather. You are very right about the heat soak, I believe it plays a big role on the actual temp sensor also causing a lag in the readings.

I'd be curious to the actual water temp to see what it is. If it's just a degree or two off of ambient, then you can't really ask for more other than to change the intake setup and add more and larger laminova tubes. My HE never even gets warm, short of ice water, I don't know how I could get it any cooler.
 

Indy Lonnie

Well-Known Member
Nothing needs moved, but its very tight. It just pushes in from the side. I have it held in place by one extra radiator fan zip-tie mount I drilled through the center of the fiberglass housing. It takes a few moments to line up everything when you mount the hood. The cooling is amazing. My IAT1 runs within 15 degrees of my IAT2. Even after a hard run if falls down quickly. I do not use the fan for the intercooler.
It is a wonderfully designed piece. CHEERS to DF!
My NACA Duct install
 

JBINTX

Goblin Guru
You've seen our setup. I have monitored our IAT2 temps until I just got bored of them. They can't be thought of and related to what you would with engine temps.

The IATs will go up under extreme boost and especially constant and often high boost. The boost is what creates the heat, obviously. However, under normal daily driving, they will actually go down with fairly open throttle because of the fresh air will cool the intake tract and air (along with the sensor). When at idle, there is no boost but the temps will go back up because there is not much fresh air entering the intake. But as soon as you take off, the temps will go back down. Now some of this is actually just the lag of the sensor whereas the actual air temp may be slightly different.

I don't think you will ever find the IAT2 temps to be much closer to ambient than 20* F during summer weather. I constantly see 95-110 during 75-90 degree weather. You are very right about the heat soak, I believe it plays a big role on the actual temp sensor also causing a lag in the readings.

I'd be curious to the actual water temp to see what it is. If it's just a degree or two off of ambient, then you can't really ask for more other than to change the intake setup and add more and larger laminova tubes. My HE never even gets warm, short of ice water, I don't know how I could get it any cooler.
A cheap infrared thermometer will give you a pretty good exterior temps on parts. Only about $20 these days.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=infrared+thermometer&qid=1582237844&sr=8-3
 

JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
Nothing needs moved, but its very tight. It just pushes in from the side. I have it held in place by one extra radiator fan zip-tie mount I drilled through the center of the fiberglass housing. It takes a few moments to line up everything when you mount the hood. The cooling is amazing. My IAT1 runs within 15 degrees of my IAT2. Even after a hard run if falls down quickly. I do not use the fan for the intercooler.
It is a wonderfully designed piece. CHEERS to DF!
My NACA Duct install
I"m still not understanding how the fiberglass plenum would go in thru the side... does it go in the side, in front of the shock tower or behind the shock tower? I only have stage 1 and 2. I'm will purchase the NACA duct kit with stage 3, but I don't want to get everything put together only to have to take it apart to get the fiberglass plenum placed properly.
 

Indy Lonnie

Well-Known Member
Mine was a driver when I put it in. The intercooler radiator will be installed early in the build. The engine radiator will be canted back at 45' or more. Once the control arms and suspension are in place, it will slide in from the side behind the shock brace. It will then slide forward with the two inlets in front of the shock brace. It is very tight up and down, but it has alot of side to side room to move around. The intercooler fan will not be used. I put an extra radiator fan zip tie through it to keep it in place because of the movement. I don't have any pics or I would share...
 

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
The stock setup should be fine for PA non-track use, right? I don't want to install those intakes in my hood.
 
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