Information Gathering

[rocketdan]

Hi Everyone,

Totally in love with the idea of building a Goblin A/T. But really need advice.

I'm not seeing many options and most I'm finding are over $2,000 - $3,000 for a cobalt LT with mileage of 120,000 to 180,000 for a running vehicle, otherwise something under $1,000 usually comes with a smashed something or another and a rim that's now mounted like if it was drone. Searching semi-local copart didn't get any better results either.

This craigslist ad has been the closest thing I've seen but not really understanding the full scale of things, I wasn't sure if this would be a good vehicle to jump on. The consensus it seems is that the wiring is the paramount, what other items should I be focused on getting from a donor car other than engine and tranny.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/d/los-angeles-chevy-cobalt-2009/6805524932.html

Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions, pro-tips, jokes, non-protips and stories.

 

[ctuinstra]

I assume you are from the LA area? The east coast seems to have a plethora of cars available for some reason. Don't forget IAAI. If you have the time and patients you can find a good car for the price. It depends a lot on if you are wanting a turbo, supercharged or just base model. If you looking at the base model, you should be able to find them pretty cheap on Copart or IAAI. Don't worry at all about the body damage (unless the engine is munched). The primary things are the engine, transmission, wiring harness, steering column and pedal box. Other items can be purchased if damaged, heck the steering column and pedal box can also be purchased easily I found out myself.

The car you are looking at is not bad at all but I don't trust the mileage, 12,700? If that is the case, that engine/transmission is new!

I see seven cars right now in CA with less than 100K on Copart. I haven't looked in to each of them.

Copart Search <--- Click here

The burn car would be a good one. Now it's a matter can you bid or do you have to use a broker?

 

[Lonny]

If you find a good donor near the Dallas area you can have it shipped to our facility and then we can ship it to you with your kit or you can come visit us and pick it up with a truck and trailer.
I would not pay more than $1000 for a donor with 100k miles or not on it.
Send an email to Adam and he can look to see what is available around us.

 

[rocketdan]

yes, LA/OC border area specifically. Home of the large domestics, tiny imports, and fast tesla's.

I was assuming the milage on the one I posted was a typo and that it's more likely 127,000.

Just tried IAAI, slim pickins', got 3 results in all of CA, closest one (about 1 hr drive) is listed as dealer only, 2nd one is 2.5hrs away and notes the car doesn't start, Last one is near SF.

Thanks for the link on Copart. That burn one does look really good, Sadly it's about a 10 hour drive.

any thoughts on this one?
https://www.copart.com/lot/52142768

My overall uneasiness with the salvaged ones is any possible problem with the subframe. Is my concern just misguided?
Also am I wrong in thinking that, it is generally ok to seek out a salvaged Cobalt/G5 with rear end or rear quarter damage (including suspension) over any front end and especially if it involves front end suspension damage?

 

[ncgoblin]

yes, LA/OC border area specifically. Home of the large domestics, tiny imports, and fast tesla's.

I was assuming the milage on the one I posted was a typo and that it's more likely 127,000.

Just tried IAAI, slim pickins', got 3 results in all of CA, closest one (about 1 hr drive) is listed as dealer only, 2nd one is 2.5hrs away and notes the car doesn't start, Last one is near SF.

Thanks for the link on Copart. That burn one does look really good, Sadly it's about a 10 hour drive.

any thoughts on this one?
https://www.copart.com/lot/52142768

My overall uneasiness with the salvaged ones is any possible problem with the subframe. Is my concern just misguided?
Also am I wrong in thinking that, it is generally ok to seek out a salvaged Cobalt/G5 with rear end or rear quarter damage (including suspension) over any front end and especially if it involves front end suspension damage?

I would much more prefer rear end damage over the possibility of a front subframe. I am not sure if the A/T utilizes the front suspension to the rear but regardless suspension is fairly inexpensive. The most important parts are electrical, engine/transmission, BCM/PCM. The rest can be found fairly easy. The car you linked looks good.

 

[Brian74]

Give it time and keep looking. I’ve seen many LT’s in decent running condition for under $1k. With tax season coming, people will be buying newer cars and selling off old ones. Use fb, craigslist, offer up, let it go in addition to IAAI & Copart.

Just an idea, but I’ve also seen numerous wrecked, lower mileage complete LT’s at junkyards (not so much the case with SS models.) If you can find a lower mileage rear-ended one at a pull-your-own that has most of the parts, you could literally strip it right there or even pick between a few and not have to worry about clean up or getting rid of the donor body. Just keep all receipts as proof of ownership. Make sure the BCM, ECM, and theft module come from the same vehicle with same transmission.

Certain wear out parts like hubs, brake calipers, suspension bushings ect are cheap enough that its just better to replace with new parts IMO.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Rocket, there are a bunch of NA (2.2 liter) automatic cars for sale currently in Phoenix on CL. Many of which are around $2K with 140K miles or less.
Because there are so many of them it is easier to negotiate a better price. Keep in mind you don't need a perfect donor, since suspension pieces are cheap. The key items you need are the wire harness, steering and brakes, everything else will get tossed or sold.