2.2L LAP Turbo Build

JSATX

Goblin Guru
My thread is getting too long so I’m going to focus on this build here. I hope to record as much detail as possible and do as much work as I can myself.

This won’t be quick, I’m happily running my current engine, this project is more of a long term eventual replacement for when my current motor lets go.

I took the accessories off and wheeled the engine into the backyard for soda blasting.
A24D8F06-E915-4583-B841-56ADF34F123B.jpeg

(Don’t mind my unkempt yard, its untouched during the spring because I have beehives lol)

Starting from the top it’ll get 80lb valve springs, SS/TC valves, ARP head studs and Cometic MLS head gasket. I will be using Weisco 8.9:1 pistons and Eagle connecting rods. The crank will remain stock, probably will replace crank bearings.

I plan on removing both the balance shafts and gutting the water pump in favor of an external electric pump.

Will install 60lb Siemens injectors, ZZP stainless T3 exhaust manifold and Garrett T3/T4e .60 turbo. The turbo will be plumbed into the Saab 93 cast intake manifold that I have previously modified to fit the 4bar map sensor.

The engine will be ceramic coated black, with the valve cover and accessories powder coated in Illusion Cherry.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Are you going to port the cylinder head?
If by ported you mean ham fisted Dremmel out the left over flashing then yes. But not going to pay to have it professionally ported. If it was NA then yeah for sure but with boost I don’t think it’s as important.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
If by ported you mean ham fisted Dremmel out the left over flashing then yes. But not going to pay to have it professionally ported. If it was NA then yeah for sure but with boost I don’t think it’s as important.
Try to match the ports to the gaskets. I can not remember how much room there was on the runners and the gasket cutouts.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I’ve picked up the project again and have just finished stripping down the engine. It’s completely soda blasted and about 70% dismantled. Everything so far looks great inside. This must have been a very low mileage car when it was wrecked.

I’d like everyone’s opinion on gutting the water pump and running an electric pump. This is something I don’t have any experience in. I know I would like to aim for a much higher rev limit and pretty much want all the chains inside the front cover gone. I’d like to use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Meziere-WP136S-Black-Inline-Electric/dp/B003NDPHCW
but I don’t know exactly how I’d control it. They make kits to install a temperature sender in the radiator to modulate the rpm but I just dunno if all that is necessary. Seems like the engine driven pump is spinning all the time so why not just wire it to the ignition switch and let the thermostat do
It’s job?
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
I am not a fan of lowering compression for boost. My daily is turbocharged from the factory so it has 9ish:1 compression stock. It is gutless until the turbo builds boost. Good fuel and good tuning and higher compression will give you more bottom end.

How high of an RPM are you looking to get? IIRC once you start shooting for the 7500-8000(or more) area things get expensive.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I am not a fan of lowering compression for boost. My daily is turbocharged from the factory so it has 9ish:1 compression stock. It is gutless until the turbo builds boost. Good fuel and good tuning and higher compression will give you more bottom end.

How high of an RPM are you looking to get? IIRC once you start shooting for the 7500-8000(or more) area things get expensive.
It’s interesting you mention that because I beat my head against the wall for hours thinking/researching that. A couple main things in why I decided to lower it.

First and foremost is I have never ever been in a situation in the goblin where I thought, “what this needs is more bottom end” even in the pre-turbo 2.2 it was plenty. Light weight does that for you.

Second is at the drag strip again it was the top end that was totally lacking. I was running 60’ that should have placed my over all time a full second faster, but due to what I assume is absolutely no aerodynamics and no top end power I just wasn’t accelerating much over 70mph. So if I can give up
some bottom end to gain more top end that’s a deal
I’m willing to make. Plus it’ll help reduce wheel spin theoretically.

Third is pump gas. There’s just no way to justify E85. Between the lack of availability and the much lower shelf life I can’t use it. There’s been times when the Goblin hasn’t left the garage in three months, and other times where I’ve driven 200 miles in a morning. I need the flexibility.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
You'll still have the top end with the higher compression and 93 octane is perfectly fine with 10:1 and boost.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
So also don't tell ya that my Cavalier has a stock engine(10:1) and handles 17psi out of my TVS just fine on 93. I did switch to 101 octane race gas in it so I could add more timing.

But that is my personal preference and opinion. Some people are ok with losing some of the grunt down low in order to run more boost up top.
 

k.rollin

Goblin Guru
So also don't tell ya that my Cavalier has a stock engine(10:1) and handles 17psi out of my TVS just fine on 93. I did switch to 101 octane race gas in it so I could add more timing.

But that is my personal preference and opinion. Some people are ok with losing some of the grunt down low in order to run more boost up top.
Stock compression ratio or stock rotating assembly? If it's the latter, I'm going to have to look at the differences between Gen 1 and Gen 2 L61 engines.
 

Brian74

Goblin Guru
How many miles do you have on your current engine? Any issues so far? I was always curious how well it was holding up.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
How many miles do you have on your current engine? Any issues so far? I was always curious how well it was holding up.
2,100 miles. It’s held up amazingly well. I honestly don’t even worry about it anymore. I still have an electrical issue where it goes into limp mode but I hope to work on that when I get ready to swap engines.
 

Tinkles

Well-Known Member
Stock compression ratio or stock rotating assembly? If it's the latter, I'm going to have to look at the differences between Gen 1 and Gen 2 L61 engines.
Both. Swapping to a painted cam cover last year was the 1st time the engine has ever been "opened up". ~110,000 miles currently, around 60,000 of those miles have been boosted. 1st with a M62 and I swapped to the TVS in the spring of 2012. Last time on the dyno it made 283whp/246wtq. I give all of the credit of it not blowing up to my buddy who tunes it.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
What did you run in the 1/4 @JSATX
Well it’s complicated haha. Best ever time is a 12.4

But 60’ is 1.45. Which I think explains what I was feeling pretty well. Awesome launch, super strong through 2nd and starting to weaken into third, then by 4th there’s nothing left.

This was on only 9lbs boost and my first ever day at the track. So I really don’t put a lot of stock in those numbers. I haven’t been back but hope to in the next month or so.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Would anyone be concerned about this mark in cylinder 3? I can’t tell if it’s an actual scratch or not, if it is it’s not deep enough to catch a fingernail on.
7460

I have big plans for this engine so it’s a little concerning to see this but at the same time everything else looks pretty **** good.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
I'm not sure that would bother me. It may lighten up some when you hone it.

What does impress me is the mileage on these engines and the cross hatching still being visible.
 
Top