Steve's City Ext 09 Turbo

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I really like where you’re going with the full body. I think a lot of people would eventually like to have something similar. I had about 50 hours in a full body before giving up and just going nosecone. The hardest part without having a full size buck is keeping everything symmetric....Will come back to it some day....keep us updated.
 

Steve Sallenbach

Active Member
Hey thanks JSATX. I hear you on the symmetry issue. I was struggling how I was going to get the body to look symmetrical when the drivers side front and rear tires don't necessary track with each other (not a criticism just something you deal with) but I think I have it worked out, I just had to change the body lines from my original plans between the front and rear so both sides look similar. Hopefully I should be able to post a couple of updated pictures of what I've done in the next several days. I still have a lot of work to do, but if I can get all my body mounts figured out and welded, I should be at a point where I can send the chassis off to powder coat because I am really chopping at the bit to drive it, even though it will be naked. :)
 

Steve Sallenbach

Active Member
Hey Chad, yes I have been out of contact, busy summer and my job keeps getting in the way of doing fun stuff like building this kit car. I was sorry to see what happened, but happy your son was not hurt. Glad you are rebuilding again, anxious to see the new and improved goblin. I have made most of my body mounts but they are all removable from the original chassis so I can run it like it was originally designed which is what I will do first. Realistically it will take me all winter to get my style of body done but will post pictures when I think I have something worth posting. I plan on having everything done for the spring meet-up in 2019. I was planning on having this all done way before now but things always take longer than you want or expect.
 

Steve Sallenbach

Active Member
Finally making some small progress on my body. Here are a few pics. I been using foam insulation to shape body parts. Once I get the general shape then I cover it with resign, then sand, then body filler. You have to use a certain kind of resign (will post picture of it for reference later) otherwise everything else melts the foam... fiberglass resign, body filler and paint all melt it. I know there is another kind of foam that will tolerate fiberglass resign, but what I am using works ok. I think I got the windshield figured out by using some heavier weight paper to make the shape. I will use mar-resistant Lexan. I think i screwed up trying to post the pictures, not use to Windows 10. Hopefully its ok now.
 

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SliderR1

Well-Known Member
Very impressive Steve! I think it looks fantastic and should provide some much needed front down force.
 

Steve Sallenbach

Active Member
Thanks guys, I'm wanting to get this done ASAP but unfortunately it always takes more time then you want. Here is another photo of the nose section that I am making a little design into but still I still have a lot of work to do. I am thinking about incorporating some lights around where it curves but not sure yet. Here is a picture of the resin that I'm using that doesn't destroy the foam.
 

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Steve Sallenbach

Active Member
Yes, I have been working on it, not as much as I would like to. Here are a few pictures. First pic is adding on to the front noise piece using some foam insulation that you sand, shape and the apply body filler. Finally got the front fenders shaped like I wanted to closely conform to the front tires. The third pic is some additional pieces added to the chassis so I can mount my body. Part of the front noise piece is pretty much done except a few minor flaws I have to fix.
 

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Lethalcast

Well-Known Member
I love seeing different things and this is looking cool. This is exactly what building a goblin is all about. You make it how you want and no two are alike. Awesome job, cant wait to see it done.
 

Steve Sallenbach

Active Member
Thanks everyone, I wish I could speed up the process on this whole build, but it takes way more time then you plan. Hope to be at work less and working more on the Goblin as the weather gets better. I had the fiberglass guy stop by over a month ago, he is the one that will make the master molds once I get the body done. When I told him I wanted to make our Goblin meetup in May his response was you mean 2020...right? After I discussed all the body work I still have to do before the molds could be made, and then once the molds are made, allowing time for them to cure so we can pull pieces that I still have more body work to do, then paint, etc.. Unfortunately, he's closer to the truth then I am. I figured I should have it done sometime this summer. I thought I could drive it with no body, but not sure if I can pass inspection even though I think Nebraska won't be that difficult to get a licensed kit car on the road. At least not like some of you are having to deal with.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
I got my shocks modified to fit a coil over kit. I mentioned earlier that I cut-off the big spring perch with a cut-off wheel then ground down the sharp edges. I put the whole shock in a 4 chuck lathe, it worked really well, my neighbor did most of the work on his lathe, I have a cheap harbor freight lathe, his is a little nicer. I left the part where the spring perch was welded to the shock which left a nice substitute for the retaining ring that you would normally use to hold the adjustable sleeve in place. Since my donor had low miles, I wasn't worried about the shocks being bad. This turned out to be a pretty cheap upgrade, it costs me approx $85 for the coil kits. All I have to do now is buy springs for the rear. I used one of the front springs for the pictures.
I really like what you did here. Do you remember where you got the coil kits, or what parts you bought? I'm not able to find the adjustable sleeve part, and that has to be matched threads to the spring adjustment nut.

I think I found it. I measured our shock to be 2" in diameter, and summit has a mustang kit for that size:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-cok104/all
added 2 springs too:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-10ht125
 
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Steve Sallenbach

Active Member
First pic is the left front fender mold with where I'm going to install the headlights and turn signal. Second Picture is the left side body mold. Third picture is the pieces I used to make the two molds above. I've made and pulled the front and side pieces from the molds, now I'm working on getting the pieces to fit. One thing you can count on, fiberglass always likes to change it's shape a little, so you have to train it to bend how you want it, at least to a point where you don't cause it to crack. I have the headlight buckets made and the holes cut out in the front fenders. I'm finishing up the mold of the tail section. I have to glass the areas where there were parting lines. I hate parting lines, they are a PIA!! Once that's done, then I wait a few days for the glass to cure a little, then I will pull the original piece from the mold, then I can start to make the tail section and then more body work. There is always....always body work to do on something like this. I have a lot more pictures I could post, but don't want to overload the site and once you've seen one or two then....
 

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