I spent almost all Saturday plugging stuff in, routing the wire harness, attaching all the grounds, and filling the radiator/hoses.
So to add a few lessons learned about the first start:
1) Usually people get no noise (no crank) when they should get noise (attempting to crank.) I managed to tighten the positive cable so it was touching both the positive stud and the contractor stud when attaching it. When I connected the positive lead on the battery, the engine started cranking. I got noise when I shouldn’t have gotten noise. I guess my grounds are good.
2) After fixing that, I inserted the key, turned it on and got mileage and outside air temperature on the dash. Turn to the start position and NOTHING! Well, I know that the engine will crank (see #1). I also noticed that the fuel pump didn’t run. Hmm. Let’s jump the relay...Nothing. Oh crap, I bet my harness is totally screwed up.
Then I see the five 7-mm bolts in the fuse box are all sticking up. As I tighten them, I realize that all of the fuse connections weren’t tight, so nothing (except a few things) we’re getting power. Let’s try again!
SHE’S ALIVE!!!!!!!
But very rough running. Oh shoot, forgot about...
3) Don’t forget to cap the vacuum lines. There are three to cap (if you haven’t yet hooked up your brake booster yet like me).
A) brake booster connection (temporarily) just below the throttle body.
B) The other one DF tells you to. PCV connection, I think? This is up and left from the throttle body, if you’re looking at the throttle body.
C) I am using a filtered breather on the valve cover vent instead of feeding that oily air back into the intake (there’s a threaded hole and stem already provided by DF on the intake tube) so I capped that stud too, and the engine PURRs!
Very excited.
Now to get it on its own feet.