Nate - Track Goblin - 2008 Cobalt Donor
- Thread starter Nate
- Start date
Nate
Member
Hello everyone,
Hope you are all having a nice evening. My dad and I have been troubleshooting to try and cross the fuel pump off the list of what we think could be the root of our lack of a continual run. We tested the pressor at the fuel rail and it is holding 55-60 psi during all of the testing, pre-start, during ignition and after it dies so we believe that the pressor to the rail isn't the problem and therefore the pump is running like it should. Like my dad stated above, the MAF sensor was on backwards which did allow it to run for a couple seconds longer than it had been running intially but nothing continual.
I have attached some videos through a link that show the fuel pressor gauge so people can see what we were seeing when we were testing.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TpJFRd6Bp-JwhKPVrJAA6m4pJzP_fvLm/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KgYk6L4Qo4W-tnG4XErUJz2iOQD6a342/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XItFZlcNUWxH947hMInNsYQ13mdQjytY/view?usp=sharing
Thanks,
Nate
Hope you are all having a nice evening. My dad and I have been troubleshooting to try and cross the fuel pump off the list of what we think could be the root of our lack of a continual run. We tested the pressor at the fuel rail and it is holding 55-60 psi during all of the testing, pre-start, during ignition and after it dies so we believe that the pressor to the rail isn't the problem and therefore the pump is running like it should. Like my dad stated above, the MAF sensor was on backwards which did allow it to run for a couple seconds longer than it had been running intially but nothing continual.
I have attached some videos through a link that show the fuel pressor gauge so people can see what we were seeing when we were testing.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TpJFRd6Bp-JwhKPVrJAA6m4pJzP_fvLm/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KgYk6L4Qo4W-tnG4XErUJz2iOQD6a342/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XItFZlcNUWxH947hMInNsYQ13mdQjytY/view?usp=sharing
Thanks,
Nate
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
Unplug the MAF all together. They will run without it. My donor had a bad MAF it would not idle. It also had a Serious mis when you would run the rpm up
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I just ordered this little gem. Others can be had for even cheaper. Although I have a permanent OBDII gauge wired to the car and HP Tuners read codes also, this thing can be used on the other vehicles. You use free or low cost apps on your phone to interface with it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
He has a Auto Meter (Dashlink) actually that is how he is running his gauge package though the IPad mini. Keep in mind this is NOT the standard wiring harnesses either. (Most of the relays are gone now).
I did disconnect the MAF could not get it to start with it disconnected. Reconnected the MAF and got my longest engine run about 10 seconds (engine stumbled at around 3 seconds but then the idle came back up died at about 10 seconds).
Here are the codes I pulled a while back some of these are due to the reflashing of the second ECM (first try could not even get a start with it) also the TCM is not matching up with this peticular ECM yet.
I did disconnect the MAF could not get it to start with it disconnected. Reconnected the MAF and got my longest engine run about 10 seconds (engine stumbled at around 3 seconds but then the idle came back up died at about 10 seconds).
Here are the codes I pulled a while back some of these are due to the reflashing of the second ECM (first try could not even get a start with it) also the TCM is not matching up with this peticular ECM yet.
George
Goblin Guru
Nate do this test and report
1. Test the CAN high speed high and low signals with a scope or a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM), pins 6 and 14 of the Data Link Connector (DLC).
2. Should have a 2.5 V to 3.5 V square wave on pin 6.
3. Should have just over 2.5 V with a DVOM on pin 6.
4. Should have a 2.5 V to 1.5 V square wave on pin 14.
5. Should have just under 2.5 V with a DVOM on pin 14.
6. Key OFF for 1 minute or more.
7. Ohm test from pin 6 to 14 with an ohm meter.
8. Should have close to 60 ohms, common to see near 64 ohms.
Brad
1. Test the CAN high speed high and low signals with a scope or a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM), pins 6 and 14 of the Data Link Connector (DLC).
2. Should have a 2.5 V to 3.5 V square wave on pin 6.
3. Should have just over 2.5 V with a DVOM on pin 6.
4. Should have a 2.5 V to 1.5 V square wave on pin 14.
5. Should have just under 2.5 V with a DVOM on pin 14.
6. Key OFF for 1 minute or more.
7. Ohm test from pin 6 to 14 with an ohm meter.
8. Should have close to 60 ohms, common to see near 64 ohms.
Brad
Last edited:
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I was wondering about the pedal also. My car has an adaptor plugged in between the harness and the throttle pedal sensor. If this is not the standard wiring, I wonder if the wiring to the throttle needs to be inspected and checked for proper connection since there are codes for this.
Nate
Member
Hey @Ross,
Unfortunately there is still some minor issues with the harness that is not allowing us to get past a 5 to 6 second start. We currently have sent it back to the Alpha Fab (the company who built the harness for us) to do some testing. They currently have a test engine that they will be hooking up our harness to to hopefully work out any kinks. Once this is finished (hopefully in the next couple weeks) I will begin to get back to my build. With my dad being away with work and me just finishing my first year of dental school, I haven't had a lot of time to put into the build. However, with summer close at hand and my dads finished build providing me with extra hours and motivation, I hope to put some serious hours into getting it to (at the least) start. Don't worry though, updates surely are to come!
Unfortunately there is still some minor issues with the harness that is not allowing us to get past a 5 to 6 second start. We currently have sent it back to the Alpha Fab (the company who built the harness for us) to do some testing. They currently have a test engine that they will be hooking up our harness to to hopefully work out any kinks. Once this is finished (hopefully in the next couple weeks) I will begin to get back to my build. With my dad being away with work and me just finishing my first year of dental school, I haven't had a lot of time to put into the build. However, with summer close at hand and my dads finished build providing me with extra hours and motivation, I hope to put some serious hours into getting it to (at the least) start. Don't worry though, updates surely are to come!
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Well Good Morning,
Nate’s Goblin has been mothballed in my basement for the last year between school and the restrictions for him in the dental clinic not a lot has happened on it. So looking around at all the additional parts (mostly higher performance) that initially were going to be incorporated into “BLUE” maybe it’s time to give Nate’s car some upgrades !!!!!
Bruce
Nate’s Goblin has been mothballed in my basement for the last year between school and the restrictions for him in the dental clinic not a lot has happened on it. So looking around at all the additional parts (mostly higher performance) that initially were going to be incorporated into “BLUE” maybe it’s time to give Nate’s car some upgrades !!!!!
Bruce
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Good Morning,
Got the new engine mated up to the transmission and all set in the cradle.
You can also make out the stand alone harness (also wired for a complete electrical gauge package)....
Biggest question will be with regards to the fuel system. Will we need to upgrade the stock OEM fuel pump and the fuel injectors. New engine is running a lot more HP....
Probably going to completely disassemble Nate’s frame and make a couple of modifications and make fiberglass side panels before reassembling everything.
THX
Got the new engine mated up to the transmission and all set in the cradle.
You can also make out the stand alone harness (also wired for a complete electrical gauge package)....
Biggest question will be with regards to the fuel system. Will we need to upgrade the stock OEM fuel pump and the fuel injectors. New engine is running a lot more HP....
Probably going to completely disassemble Nate’s frame and make a couple of modifications and make fiberglass side panels before reassembling everything.
THX
