askiles
Goblin Guru
True dat. Wheels just aren’t specified in backspacing so I have always just used offset, which is specified. Just strokes for different folks. Lol
BAustin's Extended Track - 06 SS/SC Donor - #157 Registered
- Thread starter baustin
- Start date
askiles
Goblin Guru
Sign up for an account on YouTube. Or some file sharing site like DropBox.
baustin
Well-Known Member
First time getting the car off the jack stands. I had ran the engine without wheels while on the stands but that was awesome to get it driving. Anyone that remembers, I never could drive the cobalt I bought due to a broken axle, so this was the first time ever having that engine/transmission driving for me.
Things done today:
-tunnel cap screwed in (I think I used #6 x 1/2" screws)
-firewall riveted in (reminder to self or others, pneumatic would've been way better, my hands are done after trying to squeeze the rivet gun)
-brake/clutch system filled and bleed (used a vacuum bleeder I used on previous cars)
-seats final installed and seatbelts bolted in
-front shocks seat locked (ride height actually looks pretty decent)
-wheels bolted on (25mm bolt on adapters will arrive Thursday, but as long as I don't go to steering lock I can drive without them; yes my wheels should be able to fit these, I'll trim the studs if needed though)
-lowered off the jack stands (I had to lower the front onto 2x12 cuts to be able to get my jack out from under it, I don't have the low profile version)
-battery connected and started up
Things done today:
-tunnel cap screwed in (I think I used #6 x 1/2" screws)
-firewall riveted in (reminder to self or others, pneumatic would've been way better, my hands are done after trying to squeeze the rivet gun)
-brake/clutch system filled and bleed (used a vacuum bleeder I used on previous cars)
-seats final installed and seatbelts bolted in
-front shocks seat locked (ride height actually looks pretty decent)
-wheels bolted on (25mm bolt on adapters will arrive Thursday, but as long as I don't go to steering lock I can drive without them; yes my wheels should be able to fit these, I'll trim the studs if needed though)
-lowered off the jack stands (I had to lower the front onto 2x12 cuts to be able to get my jack out from under it, I don't have the low profile version)
-battery connected and started up
baustin
Well-Known Member
I do have slight leaks at a couple places, wondering if there's any specific suggestions.
Heat exchanger for the supercharger, the nylon L fitting that threads in seems to be leaking from the thread side, not the hose side. I took this apart, re-applied 2 rounds of teflon tape, included a slight bit of pipe dope on the last 2 threads to engage and it still seems to be dripping after my test drive (maybe 2 drips in 24 hours with no engine running, no idea if more while driving for 2 minutes).
The brake reservoir has a couple drips coming from the bottom, I placed a blue shop paper towel around the bottom fittings overnight, that was pretty damps after 24 hours. These are the L fittings and I have the nylon tubing attached. I have rubber hose to use with hose clamps since I assume I'll have to cut the nylon off to do any fixes here. I'm thinking I should just go 1 more full rotation tighter and the brass will just distort to allow that rotation, they're pretty tight as is, didn't want to strip the threads off if they were tight enough. Or should I use something like a teflon tape on these fittings to seal to the bottom of the brake reservoir?
Plumbing leaks are not my favorite thing to address, but obviously these need to be fixed. Ideas/techniques are welcome. I can probably get pictures tomorrow if needed.
Heat exchanger for the supercharger, the nylon L fitting that threads in seems to be leaking from the thread side, not the hose side. I took this apart, re-applied 2 rounds of teflon tape, included a slight bit of pipe dope on the last 2 threads to engage and it still seems to be dripping after my test drive (maybe 2 drips in 24 hours with no engine running, no idea if more while driving for 2 minutes).
The brake reservoir has a couple drips coming from the bottom, I placed a blue shop paper towel around the bottom fittings overnight, that was pretty damps after 24 hours. These are the L fittings and I have the nylon tubing attached. I have rubber hose to use with hose clamps since I assume I'll have to cut the nylon off to do any fixes here. I'm thinking I should just go 1 more full rotation tighter and the brass will just distort to allow that rotation, they're pretty tight as is, didn't want to strip the threads off if they were tight enough. Or should I use something like a teflon tape on these fittings to seal to the bottom of the brake reservoir?
Plumbing leaks are not my favorite thing to address, but obviously these need to be fixed. Ideas/techniques are welcome. I can probably get pictures tomorrow if needed.
baustin
Well-Known Member
Good to know, I'll give that a try since I have some loctite in the garage.
baustin
Well-Known Member
I've continued testing things out and feel good about the brake leak good and the coolant leak fix for the supercharger coolant.
Initially I set the front springs at an estimated height but felt I needed to raise the front of the car up slightly (the lower control arms were slightly tire end higher than inward end). I adjusted the lower spring seat to expose 40mm of threads, putting the bottom of the spring close to the middle of the shock threaded area. This over extended the shock and it didn't overcome the preload when put on it's own weight. I moved them back to 30mm exposed and it just starts to deflect under it's own weight. I now have the control arms set like this:
(Picture makes it look nose high only because of camera distortion, front end of frame is just lower than the rear end)
What I find odd is that the tires only have about <1 inch of downward travel, I kind of expect when jacking up the car to see the wheel extend a couple inches or more downward, mind barely do since the shocks hit max length. The front suspension definitely flexes upward if I put my weight on the front nose and bounce the car. My lower control arms have the shock mount on the bottom side, should I flip these around? I think I matched the direction others have been mounting these.
The height limits are coming from the shock, not the spring but the springs I have are the 9" 300/400 lb springs. Ones from the kit on the rear coilovers, ones I purchased on the front coilovers.
Initially I set the front springs at an estimated height but felt I needed to raise the front of the car up slightly (the lower control arms were slightly tire end higher than inward end). I adjusted the lower spring seat to expose 40mm of threads, putting the bottom of the spring close to the middle of the shock threaded area. This over extended the shock and it didn't overcome the preload when put on it's own weight. I moved them back to 30mm exposed and it just starts to deflect under it's own weight. I now have the control arms set like this:
(Picture makes it look nose high only because of camera distortion, front end of frame is just lower than the rear end)
What I find odd is that the tires only have about <1 inch of downward travel, I kind of expect when jacking up the car to see the wheel extend a couple inches or more downward, mind barely do since the shocks hit max length. The front suspension definitely flexes upward if I put my weight on the front nose and bounce the car. My lower control arms have the shock mount on the bottom side, should I flip these around? I think I matched the direction others have been mounting these.
The height limits are coming from the shock, not the spring but the springs I have are the 9" 300/400 lb springs. Ones from the kit on the rear coilovers, ones I purchased on the front coilovers.
baustin
Well-Known Member
I finished up the vinyl wrap and took some pictures! Installed the naca ducts installed too. I'm ready to talk with DMV and insurance companies now. After titling the car, I'll find that windshield that I have sitting in the garage. Still concerned about my office speed bump size, the hood is now the lowest thing on the car, it has a tiny bit less than 4" clearance right by the lower control arms on the hood edge.
Cobalt exhaust header is still in use, I've got the ZZP stainless one to install at a later time.
Cobalt exhaust header is still in use, I've got the ZZP stainless one to install at a later time.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
Looks Good! Good luck with the insurance and DMV stuff
baustin
Well-Known Member
More pictures:
I'm looking forward to getting this thing street legal, hopefully that process won't take too long. Got to pull the papers together and talk with insurance. If I have any issues I might try to talk with ncgoblin about who/where since it sounds like he's not too far from me.
I haven't actually tested the tow bar kit yet, I've got the car side brackets installed and have fitted the bar but still need to hook it up behind my truck. I've been holding off on this since in NC to flat tow, the car has to be street legal itself.
I'm looking forward to getting this thing street legal, hopefully that process won't take too long. Got to pull the papers together and talk with insurance. If I have any issues I might try to talk with ncgoblin about who/where since it sounds like he's not too far from me.
I haven't actually tested the tow bar kit yet, I've got the car side brackets installed and have fitted the bar but still need to hook it up behind my truck. I've been holding off on this since in NC to flat tow, the car has to be street legal itself.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
Smart move on the e-brake that got me on my renewal. Install the windshield after inspection otherwise they will require wipers you may already know this. Everything else should be good to go. Plan for $$$ registration after bonds if they require.
baustin
Well-Known Member
NC license and theft inspection is completed, they accepted seeing the email of the MCO from DF (big thank you to Lonny and Adam for sending that quickly after I realized the agent at my house needed to see it, not just at DMV next week). I called up the local theft bureau office (only open from 8am-10am on Tuesdays and Thursday) at 8:15, they said they're be at my house at 11am.
I was able to get insurance through State Farm, drove over to the local office and the happily wrote it for me, not cheap but it's a starting point that will get me road legal. Later went to DMV to see if they would accept my paperwork with the scanned/printed MCO and they said everything was good except they need to see the original MCO. No bond will be needed since the theft bureau agent signed off on the paperwork I already had, just had the bills of sale and title for the donor and paid invoice from DF kit car.
2/3 of the paperwork is done and the final part is reviewed and just waiting till next week (I'm guessing?) with the MCO.
I was able to get insurance through State Farm, drove over to the local office and the happily wrote it for me, not cheap but it's a starting point that will get me road legal. Later went to DMV to see if they would accept my paperwork with the scanned/printed MCO and they said everything was good except they need to see the original MCO. No bond will be needed since the theft bureau agent signed off on the paperwork I already had, just had the bills of sale and title for the donor and paid invoice from DF kit car.
2/3 of the paperwork is done and the final part is reviewed and just waiting till next week (I'm guessing?) with the MCO.
OptimizePrime
Goblin Guru
Nice build!
Did you wrap the hood yourself? If so, any feedback (good, bad, ugly etc) on wrapping the hood? I see the seam on the front, I would assume that's where the typical 5ft rolls end?
Did you pay the property taxes on the donor and register it prior to stripping it down? If not, they were cool with that?
Did you wrap the hood yourself? If so, any feedback (good, bad, ugly etc) on wrapping the hood? I see the seam on the front, I would assume that's where the typical 5ft rolls end?
Did you pay the property taxes on the donor and register it prior to stripping it down? If not, they were cool with that?
baustin
Well-Known Member
I wrapped it with my wife giving extra hands when I asked. We chose to wrap the nose front of the hood in 3 pieces, this is the first time I've ever touched vinyl wrap but worked on the side panels and engine covers first. The rest of the hood I used 1 large piece. I used knifeless edge tape (floss in a carrier tape) for vinyl to vinyl edges and let them overlap by a tiny bit. The bottom of the nose has 1 piece, the left and right nose pieces overlap matching where the white strips hide the seam. The 5' piece might've covered the front nose but I had no way to prevent massive wrinkles by that point so I did the front of the hood first, leaving the big piece to have less complexity. Still got quite a few wrinkles in it but I'm good with that look since I don't want a trophy car to never get dirty. For the edge trimming I just ran a knife flat at the inner edge, not riding the point but riding the side of the blade on the inner edge of the fiberglass. All vinyl wrap was done off the car.
I used 1" painters tape to set the gap for the 3" stripes.
I think cold stretching the wrap worked better for general bends, like the engine covers. I did heat the front nose area to get the complex curves to work. Also tried heat on the big hood piece but probably shouldn't have done that. Heat after getting everything laid still happened everywhere but I'm just talking about the process of pressing it into place.
I never registered the donor in my name, didn't title it or anything. So far DMV hasn't had an issue, it was salvage marked already when I bought it. I have the title from South Carolina with the insurance company as owner that signed it to the broker buying company and signed it over to me. I'll have the title till I scrap the donor shell, hopefully in the next week's after getting street legal.
ncgoblin
Goblin Guru
I never registered the donor. Gave the recycling center the bill of sale and title from the salvage yard after making copies.
baustin
Well-Known Member
Alright, I'm fully street legal! License plate went on today. Got the MCO from DF in the mail yesterday afternoon, took that to DMV and they went through my paperwork and gave me a license plate.
Even drove it to and from work this afternoon since it was so nice outside. My helmet (HJC i10) worked really nicely too, my head didn't get cold. I do have the windshield on.
Even drove it to and from work this afternoon since it was so nice outside. My helmet (HJC i10) worked really nicely too, my head didn't get cold. I do have the windshield on.
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