Lechlis's Track Goblin - 06 SS Donor - Chassis #173 - Registered

Ark :D

Goblin Guru
I noticed it says they don't work with the LNF what's different in the controls arms that it won't work?
The diameter of where the control arm mates with the knuckle is slightly larger on LNF cars. Some knucklehead on Facebook Marketplace bought my LNF steering knuckles ... I warned him ahead of time that LE5/LSJ arms/knuckles are different than LNF and to know what he was buying, but he didn't take heed and ended up with a set of knuckles that didn't work for his application.

It's worth noting that there is NO SOURCE (or virtually no source, I haven't been able to find any?) of aftermarket LNF control arms...
 

OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
Loving the quick progress on your build man. You saving the hose pull through the frame for the end? Any comments on the build to this point? I'm starting the build in a few days
 

Lechlis

Well-Known Member
Loving the quick progress on your build man. You saving the hose pull through the frame for the end? Any comments on the build to this point? I'm starting the build in a few days
I am going to use -16AN hose for the coolant. I am going to do fuel, oil cooler, and coolant lines pretty much last so that I can measure and route them nicely. That is the plan anyways.

Other than a few hardware hiccups, everything has been smooth. I got 3/8 hardware in the floor support strap baggie instead of 1/4. On the front uprights, I got a few 1/4 inch bolts where everything is designed to be 3/8. A few other miscellaneous items are still needed from DF that didn't make the initial delivery.

Honestly, it has been pretty straight forward. The only thing that takes a little brute force is the solid front engine mount. It wants to line up about 1/4 hole off. I left all of the other engine mount bolts a little loose and had a friend push it into position with a prybar (Wrapped in towels. lol.) while I slid the bolt in.

The plan for tonight is to get the fuse box and engine harnesses all figured out. I removed the engine harness and didn't label anything in my donor stripping fury. Should be fun......

PS... @Adam/@Lonny, I know you guys are busy and all, but I need some parts! :)
 

Lechlis

Well-Known Member
EDIT: Figured it out! It is for the injector harness.

Needing to tap into the brain trust...

What could the connector without the green sticker be? I matched up the green sticker connector to the MAF pin out, but the other, I cannot find much info on.

Luckily, everything else laid in easily and connected. I have at least a handful of connectors which can be deleted so I believe I’ll be pulling it back out and start cutting.
 

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Lechlis

Well-Known Member
Minus the need for some electrical tape and final wire management once the rest of the parts are installed, I think the engine harness, fuse box, etc is done.

I removed the AC, intercooler pump, SCIP, EVAP, purge, rear O2, and radiator fan plugs. I only cut them back a few inches, applied heat shrink, and tucked inside the conduit just incase. All of the grounds also lined up very nicely. It should tidy up quite nice once everything is finalized.

I was able to turn the key on and fire up the electronics without any smoke being released!
 

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Lechlis

Well-Known Member
Not much new this week.

I installed the fuel pump. I had to make a couple adapter changes but it’s pretty slick. Currently mounting the oil cooler and intercooler. All of the AN fitting/hose stuff has came over the last week so I’ll get everything piped up this week.

The throttle body works with the pedal and the engine turns over. The first start will be shortly after the intake manifold arrives!
 

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Lechlis

Well-Known Member
Wrapping up for the night.

Intercooler in. I’ll pull the cross bars tomorrow and paint them black. The piping is going to be quite easy! I probably spent too much time looking for the perfect intercooler with end tanks to match the bar angles, but it fits absolutely wonderfully. The turbo feed and drain are plumbed. The oil cooler is ready to mount, I just need three 1.25” P-clamps. Lowe’s only carries up to 1”... Oil cooler and coolant lines are pretty much ready to hook up. I am just awaiting a few other hose ends.

Against my better judgement, I put the valve cover on. It looks gorgeous! I’ll definitely be keeping it covered.
 

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Desert Sasqwatch

Goblin Guru
NICE!!! :D 3 inch A2A should keep your IATs down no matter how hard you drive. Are you putting fan(s) on for some forced air cooling? Just asking, because with the windshield installed you will find the air goes over the top and around the sides of the car and comes forward over the top of the engine - which you may already know. The fans should be blowing forward through the intercooler to take advantage of the cool air coming around the car rather than trying to push air back though the intercooler pulling the hot air from the engine area.
 

Lechlis

Well-Known Member
NICE!!! :D 3 inch A2A should keep your IATs down no matter how hard you drive. Are you putting fan(s) on for some forced air cooling? Just asking, because with the windshield installed you will find the air goes over the top and around the sides of the car and comes forward over the top of the engine - which you may already know. The fans should be blowing forward through the intercooler to take advantage of the cool air coming around the car rather than trying to push air back though the intercooler pulling the hot air from the engine area.
It’s funny you brought that up. I had actually been reading about how much the windshield changes the airflow so I figured I wouldn’t be getting much ram air from the front. I think for the sake of getting this thing built, I am going to put the fans on the “post-registration upgrades” list.
 

Lechlis

Well-Known Member
Shifter, shift cables, tunnel cap, intercooler, oil cooler, hood, windshield, switch panel, etc, etc complete.

Minus wrapping up the fuel/oil/coolant/intercooler piping and taillights, I believe I’m done until I get the backordered stuff from DF. The intake manifold will be here soon, so the first start will follow shortly after!
 

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JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
Shifter, shift cables, tunnel cap, intercooler, oil cooler, hood, windshield, switch panel, etc, etc complete.

Minus wrapping up the fuel/oil/coolant/intercooler piping and taillights, I believe I’m done until I get the backordered stuff from DF. The intake manifold will be here soon, so the first start will follow shortly after!
Agreee with Ark! Looks good! Could you share the engine oil cooler and hose part numbers shown in the 2nd picture? I was thinking of putting my oil cooler in the same place.
 

KSLunsfo

Well-Known Member
Looking really good, and coming together quick! I need to get your way and check it out! I made more tear down progress today, should be posting up on that here in a bit. I'm waaay behind you right now haha.
 

Lechlis

Well-Known Member
The cooler is a Frozen Boost Type 112. It came with the kit to be used as the stock intercooler heat exchanger. It comes with 10AN fittings, and I am using the OTTP remote oil cooler adapter which is also setup for 10AN fittings. I am putting 90s on the oil cooler and 45s on the remote mount plate to run the lines down and around a few other harnesses/hoses in its path. Regarding mounts, I just bought some 1.25” “P-Clamps” from Amazon and 3D printed adapters.

 

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OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
When you get a chance, can you take some pics of the FMIC (back mount?) mounts?

Where did you get the square bar stock and what size? I take it you drilled / tapped the end?

I'm interested in seeing how you're routing the piping. I think I'm going with the V-Mount FMIC in the same place and have the purchase list dialed in except for the mounting solution running across. I have carbon steel round tube that I could weld in but I feel like there may need to be some play and not have it that rigid.
 

Lechlis

Well-Known Member
Yep, I will get some next weekend when I get back to VA.

I used 3/4" aluminum barstock from MetalsDepot (Link below). I bought a 4' stick for $16.16 and had a few inches left. The bar clamps and intercooler I used are below as well.

Piping wise, I am going to get the final measurements and BOM once the intake manifold is on. Dyemond Fab had some supplier issues and is expecting delivery to me late next week.

Barstock --> https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-products/aluminum-square-bar
Bar Clamps --> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWOINCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Intercooler --> https://www.cxracing.com/IC0047-B?search=IC0047-B

On a positive note, I should be getting a shipment from DF next week with some of the back-ordered stuff. I will be in Egypt for 5 weeks starting the first week of February, so I am hoping to get it started and on 4 wheels before I leave.
 

George

Goblin Guru
If you had injector holders put in the intake runners you could have had a dual fuel setup. That being run ethanol
in the injectors in the intake manifold to come on at a high boost setting and drive around of gas for mileage.
you would have to make two new fuel tanks.

Brad
 
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