Carl's Track Goblin - 05 SS SC donor, Chassis # 39

[Waterdriver]

I did't want to discourage anybody.
That amount of time I spent was drawn out since before the Holidays.
If you could dedicate around 4hrs a day, say 2 days a week, you could get it knocked out pretty quick.

I just had so much downtime in between sessions working on it, that I wanted to figure out exactly where I left off so I didn't cut out something I needed. I also ended up de-pinning wires and removing instead of just cutting.

It is kind of therapeutic. It's a little intimidating at first but just focus on the next step. Then the next step and so on.
It's then gratifying to finally start the process wrapping of the harness nearing its completion.

 

[syntroniks]

That's really impressive in a 1-car garage. The use of the frame as a support is really clever! ...maybe 1/4 of the time spent building a goblin is wiring 0.0

 

[Waterdriver]

I don't know if using the Goblin as a table frame was as much clever as it was my only option. It helped being the track frame as being a more stable table frame.

 

[Brian74]

I did't want to discourage anybody.
That amount of time I spent was drawn out since before the Holidays.
If you could dedicate around 4hrs a day, say 2 days a week, you could get it knocked out pretty quick.

I just had so much downtime in between sessions working on it, that I wanted to figure out exactly where I left off so I didn't cut out something I needed. I also ended up de-pinning wires and removing instead of just cutting.

It is kind of therapeutic. It's a little intimidating at first but just focus on the next step. Then the next step and so on.
It's then gratifying to finally start the process wrapping of the harness nearing its completion.

I can relate to the therapeutic aspect. Now that I’m on the dash harness though I keep coming up with all these new ideas of features I want to add to my electrical system. Thank God my wife is cool with us having no dining room table for a while.

 

[Waterdriver]

Got a little more done this evening.
Finished wrapping the wiring harness. Do I feel confident all will work as planned? Sure, why not, what could go wrong. Right?
Got rid of the sheet of OSB from the garage and can finally see the chassis again!
Started installing the harness into the car and left off at plugging in the throttle plug and securing.
I did notice that my grounds in the harness tunnel ended up short of the ground lug. I have a ground strap that I'll probably end up using to make that ground work.
I couldn't get those grounds any further forward as the wires were too short.

 

[KJP]

If you find thinning the harness to theroputic I can send you my harness lol. You know for good over all mental health for us both.

 

[Waterdriver]

That's is funny.
When i said therapeutic, I think I meant, I need therapy.

I does feel good to have that part done and actually be working on the chassis assembly again. I don't think there's anything else on this car you will spend more time on that you won't see but definitely require.

The base model harness looks to be much simpler with less circuits to mess with and remove.

 

[Waterdriver]

Had an hour here and there the last few days to get a little further.
Wiring harness installed. Required a little massaging to get the power steering power wire to reach, but ok now.
Radiator fan, and radiator installed. Had an issue with the bottom radiator mounting bushing being about 1/8in off. Required taking a crescent wrench on the lower radiator pins and ever so gently bending them out on each side. I was then able to get the mounting bushings to pop into the lower mounting bracket.
Radiator power and ground connections completed.

 

[Waterdriver]

I think I'm going to try and reuse the existing fuel pump connector.

Tested the wiring from the pump which was red/black and black wires which is power and ground.
The other two, yellow/white and pink/red, fuel level sensor.

Used a mini high speed grinder with a cutoff wheel to seperate the evap wiring plug.

What worked better than the cutoff wheel on the plastic connector was a mini saw blade set with a mandrel. Then cleaned it up with the high speed grinder and a fine tooth grinding bit.

Now to solder the female plug wires back to the fuel pump harness and the male plug back to the fuel pump.

 

[Waterdriver]

Before I get too far along, how is the clutch line secured at the front of the chassis?
The brake line clamps are too small to hold another line.

 

[Briann1177]

I used the supplied clamps. A hair on the small side, but they'll fit in there. They screw tab still squeezed together flat.

 

[Waterdriver]

I used the supplied clamps. A hair on the small side, but they'll fit in there. They screw tab still squeezed together flat.

They were a tight squeeze to get them both in the same clamp.

Had a little time the other day a removed an old part and put something on shiny and new! ZZP shorty header.
Definitely use a rust busting/penetrating liquid for nuts. Recheck all stud torque, I only had 1 that didn't back out to some extent during nut removal. Applied antiseize on stud threads prior to nut installation.

Another thing to watch for is when installing the exhaust gasket. On mine, the exhaust gasket ports top edge hung down into the top of exhaust port. The bolt holes for the gasket are large enough that holding it up allows the gasket to clear the port. A little tricky to do while installing the header but it will work.

Also worked on radiator hose reroute. Definitely wanting to draw water from the bottom of the radiator.
Needing to make a run to pickup fuel line hose and clamps and will source another s-bend hose for passenger side cooling line to top of radiator.

 

[Briann1177]

I think you saw my other post where I mentioned that the Dayco 71796 would fit perfectly. However, I think you have the older radiator mount design so I'm not sure how well it will fit for you. I think everything should mostly be the same between the two designs, but you never know.

 

[Waterdriver]

I think you saw my other post where I mentioned that the Dayco 71796 would fit perfectly. However, I think you have the older radiator mount design so I'm not sure how well it will fit for you. I think everything should mostly be the same between the two designs, but you never know.

Yes, thank you.
I know I had seen the post, just couldn't remember who posted it.

What part of the mount design changed?

 

[Briann1177]

The new style radiator mount is bolted on now. Rich has a pretty good picture of what it looks like now.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/richs-track-goblin-09-ss-turbo.420/#post-6063

 

[Waterdriver]

I have the welded on lower radiator support.
I think the Dayco P/N you supplied will work for mine as well. I be giving it a try and find out for sure.

 

[Waterdriver]

Is there supposed to be a spacer between the rear control arm rod end and the frame pick up point?
I have a about an 8mm gap.

The upper control arm, rear rod end has about 2mm gap.

Am I missing something here?

Plus I'm missing a nut. Not a personal observation, but one 1/2-20 nylocks to mount the control arm. Errr.

 

[Lonny]

No spacer, when you tighten the bolt it will pull it the correct position.
We will ship you a couple of nuts. Goblin nuts.

 

[Silverback]

Is there supposed to be a spacer between the rear control arm rod end and the frame pick up point?
I have about an 8mm gap...The upper control arm, rear rod end has about 2mm gap...

To avoid putting extra side load on the bearings, I ordered a short length of .750 OD x .125 wall round 6061/T6 tube on eBay and cut spacers to fit gaps. That was probably just an overabundance of caution.

 

[JSATX]

To avoid putting extra side load on the bearings, I ordered a short length of .750 OD x .125 wall round 6061/T6 tube on eBay and cut spacers to fit gaps. That was probably just an overabundance of caution.


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I would be more worried about changing the tested geometry of the frame than the tiny bit of tension created when tightening down the arms. About everyone’s A arms have required stretching a little, I think when they weld them it causes them to pull in.

Did you already get an alignment done or did ya do it yourself?