'10 TC Control Arms

I know the control arms are a topic that has been beat to death, but it's usually with respect to the lower bushing. I'm in the process of swapping out the control arm bushings / ball joint on my FE5 alloy control arm and going through the typical pains of grinding off the rivet & drilling new holes for the ball joint and burning out and removing the outer ring for the lower CAB, I'm now on to the leading control arm. Given this has been a bit of a nightmare already, I'm trying to mitigate me installing the wrong part.

I ordered K200361 which is listed as an exact match and researched if these were different depending on the year model and it doesn't appear that's the case. However, when I put these up against what I'm about to press them into, things are not looking good when it comes to the rubber size (....that's what she said). The metal rod itself is great. Does the rubber stretch? Did I order the wrong part? Is there a special way to press these in?

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George

Well-Known Member
Look at Overthetopperformance control arm kits
OTTP Spherical And Delrin Control Arm Bushings

Brad
 
I have already weighed those as an option. They're comically expensive because from the outside it looks to be the only known working option besides buying a complete Control Arm.
 

George

Well-Known Member
It is one of the best options if you are increasing the power. Their are other people that offer them also.

Brad
 
I'm more or less asking specifically about the Moog or AC Delco press in replacement that look like the above. If one of you gents have ever pressed them in or know someone who has I'm all ears.

Based on the deep rabbit hole I've been down with these, I'd steer clear of the Prothanes. Apparently they're not as good or last as long as OEM/Moog/ACDelco
 

ccannx

Well-Known Member
I'm replacing those with the prothanes and the rears with the moog spherical.

Where did you hear that the prothanes were not as good as the OEM? I could see an increase of NVH but any bit to keep the positive camber at bay would be worth it.
 
I'm replacing those with the prothanes and the rears with the moog spherical.

Where did you hear that the prothanes were not as good as the OEM? I could see an increase of NVH but any bit to keep the positive camber at bay would be worth it.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-2l-l61-performance-tech-45/control-arm-bushing-241392/

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/suspension-67/why-not-install-urethane-control-arm-bushings-101097/

Most of the convo is around prothane's used in the lower bushing. There's not much coverage about the upper / leading CAB at all (prothane or not) for that matter.
 

ccannx

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the link ! Glad I got the Moog for the rear like Ross suggested. Still using the prothanes on the front/ upper had the same style on the Corvette for years and they have held up well to Hoosiers.
 
Thanks for the link ! Glad I got the Moog for the rear like Ross suggested. Still using the prothanes on the front/ upper had the same style on the Corvette for years and they have held up well to Hoosiers.
Yea I like that idea and may end up going that route too. I'm going to take one for the team and try and press these in and see how it goes.
 

ccannx

Well-Known Member
I’ve had luck with a balljoint c-clamp tool and silicone grease doing suspension bushings when a press doesn’t work.
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
The problem I found with pressing those bushings in myself is that there isn't much room for tools on the one side from how the control arm angles over the hole.

I finally said screw it and took mine to a machine shop.
 
To close the loop, these bushings do go in butter smooth. Steps below for those in the same spot

1. I put them in the freezer overnight
2. Draw a white line on the control arm and the bushing so when mounting they would line up perfectly
3. Used a 21mm and 24mm deep sockets that I picked up from Harbor Freight. The 21mm is just wide enough to get around the metal and press on the rubber and short enough that the top of the socket pushes down on the metal as it's getting pressed. The 24mm gets used when the rubber itself could use some massaging, it's rather wide so it provides good coverage.
4. I put assembly lube on the inner part of the control arm as well as all around the bushing
5. Used the bolt from the ball joint part to attach the control arm to the press, and put a pry bar under the control arm perch.
6. Take your time and press the bushing in. I swapped sockets and pressed the rubber and metal as required.
7. The lip of the bushing will press through the bottom side - clean up and check it out for fitment on the subframe.

I got the 20ton press from harbor freight many years ago. More than capable for this leading cab and the lower cab as well.

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