2007 SS sc coolant hose route

Lonny

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
With the key on see if your throttle opens when you press the accelerator pedal.

If not check for data wire continuity between your OBDII and your ECM. The tan and tan/black twisted wires at the OBDII should daisy chain through various electrical components and then end at the ECM.

Take a multimeter and set it to check for continuity. Place one probe in contact with the tan data wire at the OBDII and the other probe in contact with the tan data wire at the ECM.
The meter should beep. Repeat this for the tan/black data wires.

Make sure you snugged up all of the bolts inside the fuse box that pull the electrical plugs in place.

Make sure you plugged the four clutch and brake switch wires into the correct spots and that they are adjusted correctly.

Double check all of your ground wires.
 
S

Sho

Member
Andy said:
Also is the car security box plugged in? Small box 3x3x1 was installed in the cash but connector should be by the BMS box in the passenger door box area.
Click to expand...
This what you are talking about? It says ABS... and its the only "small" box i have left laying around (that i can find...)
IMG_1008.JPG
 
S

Sho

Member
Lonny said:
With the key on see if your throttle opens when you press the accelerator pedal.

If not check for data wire continuity between your OBDII and your ECM. The tan and tan/black twisted wires at the OBDII should daisy chain through various electrical components and then end at the ECM.

Take a multimeter and set it to check for continuity. Place one probe in contact with the tan data wire at the OBDII and the other probe in contact with the tan data wire at the ECM.
The meter should beep. Repeat this for the tan/black data wires.

Make sure you snugged up all of the bolts inside the fuse box that pull the electrical plugs in place.

Make sure you plugged the four clutch and brake switch wires into the correct spots and that they are adjusted correctly.

Double check all of your ground wires.
Click to expand...
Lonny,
I have this other connector free on the brake petal switches... I dont "think" i had both switches on this car (07 SS SC)
Do you know if I am missing this connector for sure?
IMG_1007.JPG
 
S

Sho

Member
more updates. finally my intercooler came! also my fuel pump broke so had to buy a new one... the new one had different hose bends so i had to route them a different way... the way it is CANNOT be permanent! same with wire tied intercooler... lol

Still no crank though... but i cluster and all comes on with no CEL's or anything but one thing i notices is that the intake valve does NOT open when the accelerator is pushed... but the tan stripe and tan wires are coming all the way to the back (didn't check all the way to ecm though) any other thoughts!? im going to check for more open grounds tonight.
 
Andy

Andy

Well-Known Member
Yeah that is the box i am talking about I thought it was the security box.

My Engine Started Without Pressing The Clutch Down But The Transmission Was In Neutral.
 
Andy

Andy

Well-Known Member
The butterfly valve should move with the key turned to run when the throttle is pushed.
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
That's weird that you were able to start it without the clutch being depressed. That means it will probably start in gear too. I don't think there is a way for the ECM to know when a manual is/isn't in gear to prevent starting.

I'd check that out. That's a huge safety issue.
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Briann1177 said:
That's weird that you were able to start it without the clutch being depressed. That means it will probably start in gear too. I don't think there is a way for the ECM to know when a manual is/isn't in gear to prevent starting.

I'd check that out. That's a huge safety issue.
Click to expand...
Nah. I don’t like the clutch interlock. I have mine turned off someone probably turned his off too is my guess
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Sho said:
more updates. finally my intercooler came! also my fuel pump broke so had to buy a new one... the new one had different hose bends so i had to route them a different way... the way it is CANNOT be permanent! same with wire tied intercooler... lol

Still no crank though... but i cluster and all comes on with no CEL's or anything but one thing i notices is that the intake valve does NOT open when the accelerator is pushed... but the tan stripe and tan wires are coming all the way to the back (didn't check all the way to ecm though) any other thoughts!? im going to check for more open grounds tonight.
Click to expand...
The throttle should definitely open. If it doesn’t you have CANBUS wire issues.
 
S

Sho

Member
JSATX said:
The throttle should definitely open. If it doesn’t you have CANBUS wire issues.
Click to expand...
Is it what Lonny said? Check continuity between OBDII and ECM? which I did check and seems ok... well i have continuity with both tan and tan/line. Like i can touch one end to tan and one to tan/line and it beeps... if that is supposed to happen then it should be ok. I've been investigating my Crank relay and one prong on it is a little loose (more loose than others) Thinking this may? be the issue. From the diagram Andy posted in page 2 its the yellow wire going from [starter relay coil control] to [crank relay]. Cannot find continuity between the 2... i may try and jump the 2 locations and see if it works? I dont know what exact location the yellow wire is in the PCM. Theres 2 yellow wires, one coming from red block connector and other one is on the opposite side grey block connector.
Other than that seems like everything is good... well except for the butterfly valve not opening....? so it may still be data issues...?

help!
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
“Jumping” relays and fuses etc doesn’t really work on modern cars. That’s kind of an older technique if you will. There’s too many things at play that have to all hand shake and agree before the car can be started. I do not understand what you mean about there being continuity between the tan and tan/black wires.

Check my posts on page two of my thread. It’s been to long I can’t remember the specifics sorry. But you need it make sure the BCM in the passenger dash is talking to the ECM and fuse box by the engine.

The throttle not responding to pedal is a sure sign of broken communication in my opinion.
 
Lonny

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
There are three big plugs going into your ECM.

Unplug the one that is attached to your main harness that runs to the front of tour Goblin.

Remove the cover from the back of this plug.

Find the data wires inside this plug. There will be two of them. One is tan the other is tan with a brown stripe. They will be twisted together.

Go to the front of your Goblin and find your OBDII plug. Find the twisted pair of data wires coming out of the back of this plug. One is tan the other is tan with a brown stripe.

Take a multimeter and set it to check for continuity.

Place one probe in contact with the tan data wire at the OBDII.

Place the other probe in contact with the tan data wire at the ECM plug.

The meter should beep.

Repeat these steps for the tan/black data wires.

Also.

Do you have your headlamp multiply installed in your fuse box? It is one of the big plugs that goes inside if the fuse box. It is white and originally it had your headlamp, horn, window washer, front airbag sensor, and some grounds.

This ground must be hooked up for the engine to run.
 
S

Sho

Member
Lonny said:
There are three big plugs going into your ECM.

Unplug the one that is attached to your main harness that runs to the front of tour Goblin.

Remove the cover from the back of this plug.

Find the data wires inside this plug. There will be two of them. One is tan the other is tan with a brown stripe. They will be twisted together.

Go to the front of your Goblin and find your OBDII plug. Find the twisted pair of data wires coming out of the back of this plug. One is tan the other is tan with a brown stripe.

Take a multimeter and set it to check for continuity.

Place one probe in contact with the tan data wire at the OBDII.

Place the other probe in contact with the tan data wire at the ECM plug.

The meter should beep.

Repeat these steps for the tan/black data wires.

Also.

Do you have your headlamp multiply installed in your fuse box? It is one of the big plugs that goes inside if the fuse box. It is white and originally it had your headlamp, horn, window washer, front airbag sensor, and some grounds.

This ground must be hooked up for the engine to run.
Click to expand...

Lonny,
May be a stupid question but should there be continuity between the tan and tan/black data wires at all?
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I don't think there is end-to-end connectivity of the tan/black wires from OBD2 to ECM. The "in" wires to the BCM are different than the "out" wires.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Andy said:
I went with a 3 ft stainless AN -6 fuel line and 2 AN-6 to GM quick connectors. I didn't have too good of luck with those hose barb fittings. They leaked on me twice. It looks good and was like 50 bucks from jegs. Yeah that Tee connection is for the vent. I asked the same question a little while ago here.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/nearly-finished.505/
Click to expand...
Do you have the part numbers or links to the hose? I see many of them but nothing 3' long. Everything is 1.5' or less that I can find. I would like to do this also.
 
Andy

Andy

Well-Known Member
799-640853 -6ANX3/8SAE FEM LT1 BLACK
555-100613 READY MADE HOSE #6 X 3'

Jegs.com
Need 2 of the connectors. I kinda messed up and should have bought this house it is the same as above but with black fittings just for looks.
555-110613
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top