24 PSI...NOT STOCK?

Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
So there was no evidence that my donor had been modded and it had been a while since i had my first 09 T/C that was tuned so I could not tell from the butt dyno whether it was stock or tuned. I finally worked up the courage to look at the RPD unit while flooring it in 3rd gear, 24 PSI which is not stock. I am a little bummed as i thought I would get to add another 40-50 hp on top of what I had. I also feel that torque management holds the car back in 2nd quite a bit which is why i assumed it was stock, that or my clutch is slipping (no clutch smell). My question to others that are tuned is what drive ability issues are you having? From what i've read the S/C cars get really touchy with a box tune which is understandable cause the s/c cobalts were touchy in 1st gear. Maybe its the instant torque of the supercharger that complicates the tune. Anybody t/c goblins running a box tune? Any problems? Mine seems to run perfectly fine on whatever tune i has minus the possible torque management in 2nd...
 
I have a TC & HP Tuners so I don't fit the target setup you're looking for but I can give you my experience going from stock to tuned recently.

There's a table in HP Tuners called Max Torque vs RPM vs Gear, if Desired Air Load and other tables are modified and the MTvsRPMvsGear is not the car is basically undriveable in first and second. When one purchases these canned tunes, they probably touch this table a little so they don't receive complaints but still leave some sensitivity. If you want to stick with canned tunes, I would see if they could dial only this table back to give you some driveability. I'd be happy to share my values, but your values will be less bc of the S/C.

If you want the ability to do this yourself, and it's incredibly easy, HP Tuners is the way to go (no need to get the Pro version either). I have no driveability issues with a baseline tune in my SS before the Goblin swap.
 

Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
Well the reason I started this thread is because I am not have ANY drivability issues. I assumed the car was stock until I noticed I’m boosting to 24psi.. sure 1st gear can get a tad touchy at times. But it’s always been manageable which I find odd considering all of the drivability issues of 1st gear that I’ve read here on the forums.. maybe my boost gauge is just reading higher and the car is actually stock..
 

Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
I have a TC & HP Tuners so I don't fit the target setup you're looking for but I can give you my experience going from stock to tuned recently.

There's a table in HP Tuners called Max Torque vs RPM vs Gear, if Desired Air Load and other tables are modified and the MTvsRPMvsGear is not the car is basically undriveable in first and second. When one purchases these canned tunes, they probably touch this table a little so they don't receive complaints but still leave some sensitivity. If you want to stick with canned tunes, I would see if they could dial only this table back to give you some driveability. I'd be happy to share my values, but your values will be less bc of the S/C.

If you want the ability to do this yourself, and it's incredibly easy, HP Tuners is the way to go (no need to get the Pro version either). I have no driveability issues with a baseline tune in my SS before the Goblin swap.
I don’t have a SC BTW I have a TC??
 
I don’t have a SC BTW I have a TC??
Ah, okay - I couldn't tell by a sig and I interpreted the post as you have a SC, just owned a TC in the past.

Well the reason I started this thread is because I am not have ANY drivability issues. I assumed the car was stock until I noticed I’m boosting to 24psi.. sure 1st gear can get a tad touchy at times. But it’s always been manageable which I find odd considering all of the drivability issues of 1st gear that I’ve read here on the forums.. maybe my boost gauge is just reading higher and the car is actually stock..
I'm not familiar with your exact setup but the displayed boost pressure can absolutely differ from the actual boost. When the displayed psi is higher then the butt dyno or what a mechanical gauge is showing it's usually bc of the tune. Depends on your altitude, but ~24psi is the theoretical limit for the stock 2bar MAP sensor. So 24psi is possible with a tune and everything else being stock, you will definitely feel the performance if it's accurate - I'm spinning all the way to the top of second gear. For testing boost, the easiest way to tell is with a mechanical gauge or data log.

HPTuners is great for this type of thing as you could log if your clutch was slipping and other items. You're kind of flying blind without it.
 
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Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
I do have a mechanical boost gauge I can borrow from another car to test the accuracy of the rpd unit.. best case scenario my car is running stock tune and I get to turn it up.. the car will slip in second occasionally but more than not it just hooks and goes on street tires toyo R1R. I am trying to avoid having to buy hp tuners but I’m sure eventually I’ll cave.
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
To read boost pressure (among other parameters) you could use the Torque Lite app (free) and purchase a Bluetooth OBD2 adapter (inexpensive) to read/record boost pressures.

And you can use it on just about any vehicle besides just the Goblin.
 

Christopher Sanchez

Well-Known Member
The RPD units data wires is spliced right from the obd2 connector so I’m sure the measurements would be identical. I will check it with a mechanical boost gauge just to confirm. Once if I determine it’s tuned and truly making 24 lbs then I will have no need for HP tuners at this point until I decide to do injectors and a slightly bigger turbo.. If anybody has a TC goblin running a box tune I’d like to hear of any drivability issues or really just just to compare. Mine runs great! Which was the point of this thread more so than tuning Advice. Mechanical boost gauge was a great thought though.
 

kalishek

Active Member
In 999 SuperSport (vehicle in icon) use an EcoTec LNF crate motor. In MK1 config were able to generate a reliable 340hp with stock ECU by upgrading direct injectors to larger European muti-fuel units and running ZZP big fuel lobe cam. Also used larger ZZP BorgWarner EFR turbo kit. Think the turbo was set to 25psi and used 93 octane gasoline if I remember correctly. In Mk2 config run above hardware with Life Racing ECU (big $$'s) and turbo set to 30-32psi making 500hp on VP109 fuel. Which is practical limit of the stock rods. Tune is by Life Racing USA importer in San Diego, CA.
 
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