Aaron Buley's Street (Extended) Goblin #136 - 09 SS/TC donor

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
There is a 3-port solenoid right by the dipstick for the bypass valve. The port that is nearest the valve cover has a hose that runs to where you're talking about on the throttle body pipe. The other port runs to the vacuum canister in front of the engine, and the third one runs to the actual bypass valve.

*Edit* It's hard to tell with this picture, but it should get you in the ballpark on where the line is.

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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Here is how I have mine hooked up. The black device in the corner where the frame rails meet up is the original check valve. It's a 90 degree part so it's easy to just hook a couple of hoses up and route it to the intake tube.
 

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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
On a side note, I don't know if the check valve is really needed. I wouldn't fret if you can't find it. I only hooked it up because I don't know enough about cars to know it it's really needed or not.
 

aaronbuley

Well-Known Member
Here is how I have mine hooked up. The black device in the corner where the frame rails meet up is the original check valve. It's a 90 degree part so it's easy to just hook a couple of hoses up and route it to the intake tube.
Can you show me the other side? I’m trying to figure out the pipe between the IC and intake manifold.
 

aaronbuley

Well-Known Member
Lol yeah, you could say that. Once I solve this, I think it will stop my engine RPMs from surging.

see the details of my problem here in video... easier than trying to post pictures from different angles .
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
The line that you were holding in the very beginning of the video hooks up to the valve cover and runs over to the piece of pipe that your air filter attaches to. You should have a brass fitting. I can't remember if it's an elbow or a straight fitting.

The sensor you pointed to on your intake manifold @ 0:37 is your MAP. Don't confuse that with your MAF. The MAF sensor also goes into the same pipe that your air filter attaches to. That piece of pipe should have a slot for the MAF and a hole for a brass fitting that you hook your valve cover breather to.

For the section of pipe that runs from your IC to the throttle body on the intake, there are two connections. One connection is for a rubber hose that runs from the solenoid by the oil dipstick over to the brass fitting on that pipe. The other connection is for the boost pressure sensor. It is a 4-wire connector that should have gray, purple/white, tan, and purple wires in it. It's part of the engine harness. The part that plugs into your throttle body pipe looks very similar to the MAP sensor on your intake manifold. Hopefully you didn't thin that part out of your engine harness.

I think you have some of your hoses hooked up wrong especially the one you currently have hooked up to your MAF tube. I didn't have any of those sensors or hoses plugged in when I first started mine, and it idled just fine. It ran like a champ with no filter and not a single piece of the turbo plumbing installed. Unplug that line from your MAF tube and see if that fixes your idle issues.
 
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aaronbuley

Well-Known Member
Where was your missing boost pressure sensor? And I guess you got your idle issues ironed out?
It's on order... never found it. It's just an open hole right now, but the hose is connected to the brass elbow next to it.
Yeah, idle issues are ironed out. the weird thing that still remains is that I have to have my MAF unplugged otherwise my engine immediately dies.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
It's on order... never found it. It's just an open hole right now, but the hose is connected to the brass elbow next to it.
Yeah, idle issues are ironed out. the weird thing that still remains is that I have to have my MAF unplugged otherwise my engine immediately dies.
Congrats on your first drive!!!!

My engine wouldn't run without the air filter on, because the MAF sensor wasn't getting laminar air flow over it. If you have a small air leak near the MAF sensor, it won't read air flow correctly, and won't run. To get laminar air flow, they recommend straight pipe for 5" before and after the MAF sensor... which my Goblin doesn't have.

From what I'm learning from HP tuners:
MAF sensor is the main way to run the engine at low to medium power, but the MAF sensor isn't reliable at high power, so the engine switches over to Speed-Density calculations during high power. If you unplug the MAF sensor, then the engine falls back to running on Speed-Density only.
 
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aaronbuley

Well-Known Member
Congrats on your first drive!!!!

My engine wouldn't run without the air filter on, because the MAF sensor wasn't getting laminar air flow over it. If you have a small air leak near the MAF sensor, it won't read air flow correctly, and won't run. To get laminar air flow, they recommend straight pipe for 5" before and after the MAF sensor... which my Goblin doesn't have.

From what I'm learning from HP tuners:
MAF sensor is the main way to run the engine at low to medium power, but the MAF sensor isn't reliable at high power, so the engine switches over to Speed-Density calculations during high power. If you unplug the MAF sensor, then the engine falls back to running on Speed-Density only.
wow, i didn't know that. thanks!

i went to Lonny's today and he quickly pointed out that my MAF tube was on backwards. LOL. OOPS

here's a quick pic of her at the Goblin Headquarters today. :)
 

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aaronbuley

Well-Known Member
I wasn't aware that you could put your MAF tube on backwards.
Yeah it’s just a cylinder connected to the intake filter, but it’s very picky about airflow across the MAF sensor. It only works one way. Good news, the sensor has an arrow showing the direction of air flow and the sensor can only go on the tube one way. So, I had the arrow on the sensor pointed against the airflow. Oops.
 
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