Briann1177
Goblin Guru
I can measure my subrrame when I get home from work.
Alex and the Extended City Frame - 08 Sport/Automatic Donor
- Thread starter Bretter
- Start date
Just measured mine and it is 42 1/8" both dimensions (i.e. square) Sorry to report but it sounds like yours is tweaked. 
My first cradle had the ends where the lower control arm bolted on both rusted much worst than what yours shows (i.e. my mounting hole was rusted gone and the PO used a big washer to remount the cradle!
BTW on the last picture at the bottom of the picture, those mounting brackets, that are rusty, are used to mount the stock radiator and are not used for the Goblin... I (and others) just cut them off.
My first cradle had the ends where the lower control arm bolted on both rusted much worst than what yours shows (i.e. my mounting hole was rusted gone and the PO used a big washer to remount the cradle!
BTW on the last picture at the bottom of the picture, those mounting brackets, that are rusty, are used to mount the stock radiator and are not used for the Goblin... I (and others) just cut them off.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
I wanted to be optimistic by thinking maybe Paul's frame was tweaked square, but unfortunately that doesn't appear to be the case. I measured mine, and the measurements were identical.
I would imagine that the Goblin tolerances are pretty tight when it comes to bolting that up so it sounds like a new subframe might be required.
I measured mine, and the measurements were identical.I would imagine that the Goblin tolerances are pretty tight when it comes to bolting that up so it sounds like a new subframe might be required.
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So I was researching about the subframe also because I have pretty bad rust so I wasn't sure if it was going to be more cost effective to sand blast it and then powder coat or just buy a new one so I was asking about the difference in subframe between the fe5 and the fe3 because there is a difference in price of about $400 so the only difference is the sway bar on the fe3 has 1 bolt on the clamp and the fe5 uses the 2bolts per clamp.
Here is a link to the cheapest fe3 subframe I found my be someone else can find a better deal
https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/chevrolet-frame~15918781.html
My question is do you think it's more cost effective to buy new or powder coat
Here is a link to the cheapest fe3 subframe I found my be someone else can find a better deal
https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/chevrolet-frame~15918781.html
My question is do you think it's more cost effective to buy new or powder coat
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
That's some pretty bad rust going on there. You can buy used subframes on eBay for around $100 and then another $100 or so for shipping.
A powder coat would be nice, but I think it's kind of overkill. That's just me though. I think most of us just rattle can it.
A powder coat would be nice, but I think it's kind of overkill. That's just me though. I think most of us just rattle can it.
Do you think it's not worth sandblasting and painting
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Honestly, I'd buy a new one. Is some of the metal flaking? It looks like it on that first pic right on the rolled edge across from the bolt hole.
Thanks PHerder & Briann! I appreciate your help!Just measured mine and it is 42 1/8" both dimensions (i.e. square) Sorry to report but it sounds like yours is tweaked.
My first cradle had the ends where the lower control arm bolted on both rusted much worst than what yours shows (i.e. my mounting hole was rusted gone and the PO used a big washer to remount the cradle!
BTW on the last picture at the bottom of the picture, those mounting brackets, that are rusty, are used to mount the stock radiator and are not used for the Goblin... I (and others) just cut them off.
I was hoping but... Tomorrow, I'll be off to the yards to find a replacement!
10/12/2017 Build video 4 started
I managed to pick up a new subframe yesterday for $200. They had 2 and when I measured the first one, it was very close to mine. Then I measured the 2nd one (from a 2009) and it was exactly 42-1/8" like PHerder and Briann. So if anyone is in the same boat in the future, I suggest you double check measurements before actual purchase - even slightly out of square it looks just fine to my eye with no obvious cracks, broken welds etc. Even better, there was less surface rust (next to none) and we'll definitely be cutting off those pesky shin-digging radiator mounts!
Today we worked our way through build video 4 and a couple things:
1. We found the ABS connector just hanging in the socket - no connection being made. This looks to be the culprit for our early problems on not being able to get the engine starter to turn over with the key right after getting the donor home. Below, the red connector was barely into the socket so no contact. I remember reading somewhere that the ABS had to be communicating for it to start/run so we are fairly confident this was the problem (all other ground connections were good and the only broken wires we could find had to do with the headlights)
2. We were separating the muffler and ran into some issues. Nuts were a different size than the video said which is not a big deal - the right side we got loose no problem. The left side we put a 2nd and 3rd spraying of PB Blaster and still no luck. Upon closer inspection, what originally looked like dirt/grime on the nut now appears to be welding of some sort - maybe JB Weld? It was getting late, so we called it a night and will try again this weekend. And with a cutting wheel unless anyone has a better idea/recommendation?
I managed to pick up a new subframe yesterday for $200. They had 2 and when I measured the first one, it was very close to mine. Then I measured the 2nd one (from a 2009) and it was exactly 42-1/8" like PHerder and Briann. So if anyone is in the same boat in the future, I suggest you double check measurements before actual purchase - even slightly out of square it looks just fine to my eye with no obvious cracks, broken welds etc. Even better, there was less surface rust (next to none) and we'll definitely be cutting off those pesky shin-digging radiator mounts!
Today we worked our way through build video 4 and a couple things:
1. We found the ABS connector just hanging in the socket - no connection being made. This looks to be the culprit for our early problems on not being able to get the engine starter to turn over with the key right after getting the donor home. Below, the red connector was barely into the socket so no contact. I remember reading somewhere that the ABS had to be communicating for it to start/run so we are fairly confident this was the problem (all other ground connections were good and the only broken wires we could find had to do with the headlights)
2. We were separating the muffler and ran into some issues. Nuts were a different size than the video said which is not a big deal - the right side we got loose no problem. The left side we put a 2nd and 3rd spraying of PB Blaster and still no luck. Upon closer inspection, what originally looked like dirt/grime on the nut now appears to be welding of some sort - maybe JB Weld? It was getting late, so we called it a night and will try again this weekend. And with a cutting wheel unless anyone has a better idea/recommendation?
10/15/2017 Build Video 5 complete
We managed to grind off the welded muffler bolt and get it separated. Dropped the engine and got it to the side. Then went on to complete the interior and dash removal.
Engine out:
Dash out and ready for dismantling (I was surprised at how heavy the dash actually was!):
We managed to grind off the welded muffler bolt and get it separated. Dropped the engine and got it to the side. Then went on to complete the interior and dash removal.
Engine out:
Dash out and ready for dismantling (I was surprised at how heavy the dash actually was!):
JeffsGoblin
Goblin Guru
I had the exact same problem on Sunday evening and ended up cutting the nut off and it came off. Just use ear protection, eye protection and a mask, so you don't breath all that stuff in. Also, I had an interesting time dropping the engine without a hoist. I used a floor jack and carefully brought it down to the dolly. It worked well, but I don't recommend it. Great progress guys!
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Thanks Jeff! We couldn't find a place to rent an engine hoist nearby and while I could get one at Harbor Freight for $100, I really didn't want to buy a one-time tool and have it take up a bunch of space in the garage. So we did something very similar to you with the jack - our version used a 2x4 to raise the dolly to the engine and let it down slowly while checking clearances etc. At the bottom, the jack+2x4 left the wheels of the dolly off the ground by ~1-2" so we put some 2x4 on each side to hold up the dolly, pulled out the jack and then use the jack to hold up left side while knocking out the 2x4 on the right. Engine+dolly dropped about an inch to the dolly wheels and voila! Not bad for a couple of part time mechanics
BTW, the jack we used is a HF low-profile 1.5 ton, so it was pretty low - other larger jacks may need a more creative process for dropping the last couple of inches. Also, the balance point we got with this particular setup had the engine slightly leaning to the right (passenger) side. It was very easy for one person to hold it to keep it from leaning over while the other lowered the jack. I know it is hard to tell from pictures and we didn't measure exact dimensions of where the jack was, but if someone tries this again, I would suggest moving the jack ~0.5" - 1" towards the passenger side. That should keep it pretty steady and balanced.
Engine removal - no engine hoist:
The jack held the engine in place really well and was easy to remove all of the mount screws:
BTW, the jack we used is a HF low-profile 1.5 ton, so it was pretty low - other larger jacks may need a more creative process for dropping the last couple of inches. Also, the balance point we got with this particular setup had the engine slightly leaning to the right (passenger) side. It was very easy for one person to hold it to keep it from leaning over while the other lowered the jack. I know it is hard to tell from pictures and we didn't measure exact dimensions of where the jack was, but if someone tries this again, I would suggest moving the jack ~0.5" - 1" towards the passenger side. That should keep it pretty steady and balanced.
Engine removal - no engine hoist:
The jack held the engine in place really well and was easy to remove all of the mount screws:
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I do not know what that is but I can tell you it’s not in my Goblin.
A random guess says it’s an accelerometer for ABS, IIRC all brake electronics have a yellow twisted pair
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Yes, it's the yaw sensor for the ABS. All the wires on it can go.
JeffsGoblin
Goblin Guru
If its a rocket launcher module, keep it for the Goblin. If not, throw it out.
Thanks!
hahahaha! This and a couple other parts I "may not" need but that rocket launcher will be cool! I knew I had to find something to use that trunk release button on!