Alex and the Extended City Frame - 08 Sport/Automatic Donor

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
The fusebox pinouts are on the Chilton website. Stuff on there can be tricky to find, but this where I found it. All the BCM and fuse box connectors are there. Log into it, and from the menus on the left side go to

Chassis Electrical/Wiring Systems and Power Management/Component Locator/Electrical Center Identification Views
 

Bretter

Well-Known Member
Chassis Electrical/Wiring Systems and Power Management/Component Locator/Electrical Center Identification Views
Perfect - thanks! Exactly what I needed!

Light blue wire to tail lights now fixed.

Twisted pair from black/purple plug spliced in and run towards BCM. Now ~6:20 into video 12.
 
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Bretter

Well-Known Member
3/28/2018 Reorganizing the Wiring Harness #12 Complete and #13 started

Moving along well on wiring now that with the help of several folks, appropriate documentation found!

In #13, our temp sensor wires come from the BCM (documentation says so too) rather than fuse box as mentioned in the video. I guess we will keep them to the side until later in the videos when we can figure out where to route them. Are we the only ones that have seen this?
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On the headlight harness, we left the ground lug on instead of cutting off. Overall picture below - the headlight plugs have not been cut off yet.
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What we have right now is:
1) ~16" from white fuse block to ground branch with large lug.
2) Headlamp plug (some damage to wires due to donor crash), horn and purple wire coming out about same point. We think the purple is Daytime Running Lamps Headlamp Feed.
3) Downstream from there is a small ground lug branch, then a bunch of ground wires looped with another headlamp connector and an as yet unidentified connector - I think it is a lamp of some sort.

Is this OK for the large ground lug connected to the white fuse block? Or how should we change/fix it?
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Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
You can remove all of the purple wires from this harness, they are for fog lamps.

On the big ground lug in your image cut the smaller wires loose. They go to headlamps and horn and stuff that will get relocated. Leave the heavier ground wire attached to the ground lug. Allow it to split of from the rest of the wires right at the white fuse box plug. This will let you have plenty of wire to find a place to bolt that ground to the transmission later.

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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
The ambient air temp sensor originates in the BCM. I think it's the Finishing Stage 1 video that shows the sensor being clipped onto the tab that sticks out on the subframe.
 

Bretter

Well-Known Member
3/31/18 Reorganizing the Wiring Harness #13 Almost Done

Before we start wrapping the harness, I'd like to check and make sure we are good to go on a couple of items. Between the video and the plethora of pictures by Dan at http://www.dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/dan-perry-4-extended-street.11/page-3 I think the harness is pretty close.

Here is the big picture of this end of the body harness.
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The next step is to start wrapping the large bundle near the fuse box headed towards the connector to the dash harness. I think all of the branches for this end are there: Large black wire for radiator fan, (behind fuse box is ground lug to white square connector), connector to engine harness, then fuel pump branch (~24"), and the wires for the tail lights. Anything else I am missing? Or lengths seem strange?
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The one below is the middle of the body harness. The main tunnel ground is ~4.5' from the front of the fuse box and about 6" long. Is that OK? I can still extend ground wires either way easily right now to make it right if any changes are needed. Also, the transmission cable ended up about 5' from the fuse box which is about what Dan had.
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Thanks!
 

DanPerryy

Well-Known Member
While you are here I would connect ground wires between all the ground lugs, it is so easy now. The hardest thing is getting heat on some of the gound lugs. Some of mine had pigtails that were the remnants of unused components. I uses them whenever possible.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
When it came to the ground wires, I didn't like the idea of having stacks of terminals like pancakes so I consolidated most of my grounds into the tunnel area. I bought a #1 lug and soldered about 20 wires of a variety of sizes, then I ran everything to it. So no pedal box ground for me. I did end up a couple wires short so I'll have to ground my tail lights to a spot on the engine. :(
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Don't be afraid of a couple of grounds. As long as the ground are good quality grounds. The paint or powder coat needs to be completely cleared down to bare metal. I also use star washers on the grounds to dig into the metal.

On the Cobalt I swapped engines on, I ran across a terrible corroded ground from the engine to the body, so I cleaned it up. And what do you know, it fixed all of the intermittent door locking/unlocking issues!
 

Bretter

Well-Known Member
4/3/18 Combining the Harnesses Video #14 Complete

Thanks to everyone for your help in figuring out the wiring harness! Per the recommendation of several folks, we did run a separate ground wire daisy chained through all of the large lugs so hopefully we won't run into any grounding problems later in the assembly. See below for pictures of the final (so far) version. Included are the big picture and detail photos with tape measures to judge distances. Hopefully this will help us if we have any questions later on, and any future builders can see these for comparison.

Crammed full of leftover wires and some of the connectors (more in the wire box!).
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Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Did you run the power steering wire from the fuse box in the rear? Or did you run a shortened version from the battery?
 

Bretter

Well-Known Member
Did you run the power steering wire from the fuse box in the rear? Or did you run a shortened version from the battery?
We ran from the rear fuse box - see video 12 at ~1:45 and ~3:20. We figure using the fuse that is already there is easier/safer than doing even more modifications to enable a shorter wire to the EPS system. When we started this wire-palooza, it was more like almost blindly doing what the instructions said. After getting into it reading schematics & wiring diagrams, sorting out the "extra" wires we had vs. the instructions and understanding which wires were staying and why, our understanding of this electrical system is dramatically better. We're almost dangerous! o_O
 

DanPerryy

Well-Known Member
I added two inline fuses (automobile stereo fuses) directly from the positive terminal of the battery. One to power the BCM, the other for the power steering.
There are covers (for the fuses) flipped open for the photo. In the stock vehicle both circuits come directly from the battery from the main fuse block.

I didn't want to run large gauge wires from the back fuse box (other than the main battery cable to the starter).

.
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Bretter

Well-Known Member
Question on Moog control arm bushing replacements: It looks like there is a small ridge/ring around one side of rubber. Does it matter if that is pointed up or down?

I don't think it would matter and the install instructions say don't pay attention to orientation. What have others done before?

Thanks!

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ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I don't remember my MOOG bushings being exactly like that but I do remember them being different from one side to the other. But after measuring them, there was no difference as far as length/width so I just put them in and did them both the same.
 
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