AleX1/9's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor - Chassis #18 - WA registered

[AleX1/9]

Where did you get the headlights?

If you google "dominator 2.0 headlights" they'll pop right up. I ended up getting a RHD set for a good deal which was perfect, as I swapped the RHD blockoff plate for a LHD "bixenon solenoid" which gives a Hi/Low function to the single headlight. The Arial Atom uses 2 pairs, one hi one low each side, which is probably a better way to go if you need to pass an inspection to register the Goblin. Even then, I'm not sure the DOT markings are correct, so I might have to get a temporary set of cheap DOT lights to get it registered.

 

[AleX1/9]

I have since changed mine to reflect what Adam posted and the camber is MUCH closer to being right now. Before, with the bottom upright mount the wrong way around, the camber was extremely negative!

YMMV.

I emailed Adam before installing to make sure they went on correct, as the build videos show the old style parts. He replied with this reference picture, showing Lonny's orange goblin:

I noticed he has a much longer spring in there as the spring perch/collar is bottomed out on the coilover threads. I'm guessing 12" length? I'm curious to know the spring rate...

ALSO noticed the nice machined dust cap for the wheel bearing. I started digging through the recycle bin to find a cap / bottle end to use and the bottom of a SOLO cup fits pretty good!

The fit is a tiny bit loose though and I'd like to see if anybody else has found something common that actually wedges in there?!?

 

[Briann1177]

If you're looking to cover up the hole that is left in the hub after grinding off the ABS connector, I found these fit perfectly. I got two of the 1-3/4" OD caps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-Black-Vinyl-Round-End-Cap-Cover-Rubber-Plastic-Tubing-Stopper-Plug/132328996867?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[RichN]

Trailer caps from AutoZone, I filled in the gap with clear RTV

 

[AleX1/9]

I re-visited the SOLO cup solution - you can trim them so they wedge in there nicely. Painted em black, and a dab of epoxy on the inside to keep them in place.

Back to the fuel setup, i got a 45 degree elbow for the fuel rail so the line runs much more cleanly (the rail was shooting the not so flexible braided line straight up and that was bothering me) If I had a do-over, I would have just ordered the AN hose with a 45 or 30 degree end fitting.

Also received the e-brake calipers from gopowersports and the wilwood spacers. I ordered 3 per side, which ended up being far too wide for my rotors. 2 is too tight. with a washer added they fit great. I'm going to make a 3rd thin spacer instead of using washers out of flat stock steel strip. I wash I had a band saw, I would just slice one of these extra guys in half!

 

[Tony]

Also received the e-brake calipers from gopowersports and the wilwood spacers. I ordered 3 per side, which ended up being far too wide for my rotors. 2 is too tight. with a washer added they fit great. I'm going to make a 3rd thin spacer instead of using washers out of flat stock steel strip. I wash I had a band saw, I would just slice one of these extra guys in half!

How thick are your rotors? I used 3 spacers per caliper and it fits perfect.

 

[AleX1/9]

Forgot my shout out to you Tony, I benefitted from your posted showing the deal on the calipers from gopowersports and the wilwood spacer part numbers. At $30 each on the calipers and maybe another $40 for spacers, what a DEAL!

I must confess I didn't actually measure the rotors. I'm more of a mock-up type. The maximum travel on the inner pad is only equal to the thickness of the lever (maybe 5mm?) With 3 spacers in, the pucks would not have contacted the rotor at all. 2 spacers turned them into more of a clamp - permanent Ebrake! The goal is to get the fitment as close to the rotor as possible with no engagement on the lever. That will give maximum leverage/force on the pad when engaged, and give the longest use between adjustments for wearing pads. The pic in last post really says it all.

If you're using 3, you must have much thicker rotors than I do?

 

[Tony]

Forgot my shout out to you Tony, I benefitted from your posted showing the deal on the calipers from gopowersports and the wilwood spacer part numbers. At $30 each on the calipers and maybe another $40 for spacers, what a DEAL!

I must confess I didn't actually measure the rotors. I'm more of a mock-up type. The maximum travel on the inner pad is only equal to the thickness of the lever (maybe 5mm?) With 3 spacers in, the pucks would not have contacted the rotor at all. 2 spacers turned them into more of a clamp - permanent Ebrake! The goal is to get the fitment as close to the rotor as possible with no engagement on the lever. That will give maximum leverage/force on the pad when engaged, and give the longest use between adjustments for wearing pads. The pic in last post really says it all.

If you're using 3, you must have much thicker rotors than I do?

Admittedly, I didn't measure either. Forgive me if this sounds ignorant, but did you try adjusting the pin? The movement is only as much as the thickness of the lever, but you can adjust the "zero".

 

[AleX1/9]

Admittedly, I didn't measure either. Forgive me if this sounds ignorant, but did you try adjusting the pin? The movement is only as much as the thickness of the lever, but you can adjust the "zero".

Yah I had the adjuster in as far as it would go while still allowing movement of the lever.

 

[Tony]

Yah I had the adjuster in as far as it would go while still allowing movement of the lever.

Weird. Only other thing I can think would be if you're missing the steel plate behind the pad, otherwise we must have different rotors. I'll measure when I get home today.

 

[AleX1/9]

Thinner 3rd spacers are done, got new hardware, ready for mock up once the brackets come from DF.

 

[AleX1/9]

I gotta say I'm really enjoying the assembly process. Today I did the rear spindles, hubs, toe links, axles,rotors.

 

[AleX1/9]

Also added a fire extinguisher to the passenger side dash area. You know, so they feel safe!

 

[JSATX]

Looking really great!

 

[AleX1/9]

Got the tires mounted and balanced today

 

[AleX1/9]

Finished the Koni/QA1 combo for the rear! I really feel like I accomplished my vision of having them functionally and aesthetically match the fronts as well as possible. They use the same springs, same style sleeve, same adjuster wrench, same top hats. The Koni shocks are single adjustable just like the QA1's, and are IMO of superior quality. Now I just need the strut tower pieces Adam ship them pleeeeeaaassse

 

[KJP]

Those look awesome. I will be interested to see them mounted up and hear how it handles with them

 

[AleX1/9]

Painted and mounted the exhaust today. Also added an o2 bung for the secondary sensor. Now I have 3 total with the AEM wideband!

I also changed the plugs to some NGK platinums (glad I did they were OOOOOLLLLD and there was some moisture and corrosion down the tubes I was able to clean up.

Got the fuel pump retainer ring installed - one of the mounting studs landed right in between the 2 fuel lines! But I wanted the lines pointing that way for routing to the filter, and I suffered through it with a flat paint gun style wrench.. Hopefully I dont' have to take it back off anytime soon! (also thinking I should use dzus fasteners or similar while installing the firewall panel for the sake of access)

 

[ctuinstra]

Man I hate to say this, but that may be a really bad idea on the fuel pump! The float will not be able to float up to the top. It will hit the rear side of the tank. I thought about "clocking" the pump and just after I did, I realized that will move where the float is. There is a cutout in the baffle on the inside to allow the float to clear and rise to the top. Hope I'm wrong.

 

[ctuinstra]

What paint did you use on your muffler? I JUST entered the order on Eastwood for their satin high temp paint. I tend to like their products. MUCH BETTER THAN THE CRUSTOLEUM.