AleX1/9's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor - Chassis #18 - WA registered

AleX1/9

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
ctuinstra said:
Man I hate to say this, but that may be a really bad idea on the fuel pump! The float will not be able to float up to the top. It will hit the rear side of the tank. I thought about "clocking" the pump and just after I did, I realized that will move where the float is. There is a cutout in the baffle on the inside to allow the float to clear and rise to the top. Hope I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
I didn't consider the float travel, can you tell me, does the float only work the gauge or does it affect the pump operation? If it's just for the gauge, I'll likely live with it until I decide to just replace the factory plastic lines. I saw Justin "JSTAX" managed to cut off the factory lines and go rubber.

For the paint, I'm using VHT caliper paint in satin black. It claims to be good for 900 degrees F. I have used their "flameproof" header paint with decent results, so we'll see how the caliper paint version holds up. If I decide to go turbo, I won't have spent a lot of dough on it. If I decide to stay SC, I'll take it in with the rest of my "round 2" powdercoat items for the ceramic treatment.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I can only assume the float is only for the gauges. You just won't ever see a full tank. Worst case scenario is that it gets hung up on the wall and only every shows that position.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
1) Where did you get the brake, clutch and gas pads?

2) Where did you get the coolant pipe and do you by chance have the part number for it and the other hoses you used? I like this setup a lot!


Chad


AleX1/9 said:
the pedal pads were worn and missing, couldn't help myself.





I had to mailorder some 1.25" adel clamps as the hardware stores only carried 1" and 1.5". they help located this pass side coolant pipe and the fuse box on the other side (my welded on tab missed by a country mile)



Next to finish mounting the headlight ballasts and horn, the fuel pump filter and lines, the throttle body, brake vacuum hookup, intake, and then WIRING!
Click to expand...
 
AleX1/9

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="ctuinstra, post: 7111, member: 163"

]1) Where did you get the brake, clutch and gas pads?

https://thmotorsports.com/i-410328.aspx?410328NF&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiuiw-rSf2QIVyVe9Ch05hQ9REAkYCyABEgImsvD_BwE

I used this set with the longer (Porsche style) gas pedal and trimmed it down because there are no measurements listed on the smaller style which are the correct shape but unknown size (other than referencing to the other 2)

2) Where did you get the coolant pipe and do you by chance have the part number for it and the other hoses you used? I like this setup a lot!

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1528_1065_1238&products_id=1396

I used this in conjunction with the DF supplied and OE hoses. worked out nice! It doesn't have barbs / lips on the hose ends which I might need add if they have trouble staying on, but I think it'll be good without.


Chad[/QUOTE]
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
ctuinstra said:
Man I hate to say this, but that may be a really bad idea on the fuel pump! The float will not be able to float up to the top. It will hit the rear side of the tank. I thought about "clocking" the pump and just after I did, I realized that will move where the float is. There is a cutout in the baffle on the inside to allow the float to clear and rise to the top. Hope I'm wrong.
Click to expand...
I’m afraid he’s right. I cut the plastic away on mine to get the tubes in between two studs
EDFEAD23-58EE-434C-A4A4-AF1D5420CC10.jpeg
 
AleX1/9

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
cutting the plastic lines off the fuel pump and going 3/8 rubber hose is the way to go. Not sure why I waited this long



I had to stop and order a 5/16 quick connect fitting like the 3/8 ones supplied by DF as the return is smaller (couldn't tell just by looking at the OE hoses)

Also finished mocking, cleaning, and painting the rear brake calipers, solid engine mounts, column pieces, sway bar and links and bushing brackets, kick plate and more.

I lopped some material off the transmission side shifter cable brackets so they look a little more like they belong together





I'm still fighting my OCD on the kick plate. I didn't weigh it but wow it's heavy and IMO wayyyyy overkill. Plus it lacks any flavor. I'm planning on either making something that matches the sparco pedal pads from scratch, or having a killer set of waterproof floor mats done by coco mats. Or both

I'm super glad to say that I'm done with cleaning and painting and grinding and sanding for a while. At least until I decide to do the body.... if ever!

That's one element of the build that has been a huge time and joy suck. I live in the PNW and the only way to paint is in the garage with a heat gun, not my favorite thing to do. If I had a do-over, I would get everything in one shipment. I would mock the entire car up to completion running with the coolant tubes outside the frame. Then I would let the powder coater do EVERYTHING at once. Live and learn!
 
Karter2026

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
That is what I am doing. Make sure everything fits, weld some tabs and brackets. Finishing up the wiring. Then take it apart and start painting.
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I've never heard of coco mats. I checked their website out, and I liked what I saw. They even have a color that's perfect for me.

Any idea how much they'd cost? Also if you're going to go this route I wonder if they can save the pattern for future buyers? That would save others a lot of time drawing it out on paper, cutting it out, and mailing it to them.
 
AleX1/9

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Briann1177 said:
I've never heard of coco mats. I checked their website out, and I liked what I saw. They even have a color that's perfect for me.

Any idea how much they'd cost? Also if you're going to go this route I wonder if they can save the pattern for future buyers? That would save others a lot of time drawing it out on paper, cutting it out, and mailing it to them.
Click to expand...
The pricing is listed on their site and ranges from like $180-240 a pair. Considering they’re made by hand to order, not bad.

I’ll tell them to keep the pattern. I still haven’t decided what fastener type I’ll use. I like hooks or Velcro I think.
 
AleX1/9

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Installed the sway bar last night after painting it and the moog end links and bushing brackets. The bushings I got from rockauto didn't fit at all. The diameter was correct, but the shape was too small and lacked the centering "hump". Lesson learned, get OE sway bar bushes. Unless anyone has a line on prothane/energy/moog replacements that work???



I had to take the toe arms off to get it installed, and feed it through from the passenger side. For those assembling, do the sway bar first!
 
BAR-AIR

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
That’s going to hose you if you are going to use the stock rear fender mounts for the Goblin.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
I've been debating about using the sway bar. Some say not to. I have mine powder coated and ready to go other than I need new links. I was holding off on buying the links. Interesting you had just posted this. I will have to be careful about the links that I buy.

And I have not installed the rods yet so now would be a good time if I should decide to. I should mention that I have the upgrade suspension pack on the donor so I have the thicker sway bar and may be too much.
 
Silverback

Silverback

Well-Known Member
After reading the posts that described excessive oversteer, I've ditched the beefy 24.2mm SS/TC swaybar and have a base model "soft-ride" FE1 18mm bar on hand to install in its place.
 
Last edited:
AleX1/9

AleX1/9

Well-Known Member
Silverback said:
After reading the posts that described excessive oversteer
Click to expand...
I missed that posting. Had I known, I would have bought a beefier sway bar!

All kidding aside though, I’m building a smile machine more than a competition machine so oversteer within reason is my preference.

Don’t get me wrong, With a short wheelbase and rear weight bias you have to be careful, and will get in trouble if careless. Especially with elevation changes, or unknown road surfaces
 
JSATX

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Silverback said:
After reading the posts that described excessive oversteer, I've ditched the beefy 24.2mm SS/TC swaybar and have a base model "soft-ride" FE1 18mm bar on hand to install in its place.
Click to expand...
Who is having oversteer?? Understeer is a much bigger issue IMO.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top