Alignment settings

Matt TT

Matt TT

Active Member
Took the car in to get an alignment today and the guys said they couldn’t do it without a standard to compare it to in their system. I was unsure if just using the cobalt settings would work since the suspension is different and the front is now the back. Anyone have any advice on getting it tuned in?
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
Most good alignment machines allow you to inner user defines specs. But some places do not know how to use it.


Brad
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Here you go, this is what I used:

I got some info from Lonny incase anyone else wants to know the specs they suggest
Alignment:
  • Front
    • Ride height: set to where the lower control arm is level to the ground with you (and a passenger) in it
    • Toe: +.15 degree (toe in)
    • Camber: -1.5 degrees
    • Caster: 8.5 degrees
  • Rear
    • Ride height: Control arms level to the ground or slightly up toward the middle of the car. We normally end up with 7-8 inches from the ground to the lower lip of the subframe where the control arm slips in but this varies depending on tire size.
    • Toe: +.15 degree (toe in)
    • Camber: -1.5 degrees
The more camber you can get front and rear, the better it will be for track use. However, while it is easy to add camber up front, the rear is a different story. Since we don't yet have adjustable top plates, the only way to adjust the rear camber is the method in the Cobalt service manual:

Basically you remove some material from the lower mounting hole of the strut to create a slot. Then you can get a little bit of camber adjustment.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Bretter said:
I think you mean Toe In of +1.5 degree correct? Not +0.15 degree?
Click to expand...
I used these figures when I got mine aligned and they did get the total Toe In to .17 degrees, but that is the same as the the rear. I would have thought the front would have a toe in more than that. I wonder it that contributes to it being a bit darty. Waiting for any confirmation on the settings.....
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
1.5 degree would be 3/4 of an inch, and 1/16" is 0.12 degree or 7 minutes. I would work around 1/16" to 1/8"
and test drive. As designed the steering has a lot of bump steer. The toe will change between a driver in car to no driver.

Brad
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Took mine to the alignment shop today. The old mean guy there didn't hand out a nice pretty page afterwards. Just some scribbled notes. $100 and he had it knocked out in a few hours. It was almost as if he has done a few Goblin's in his lifetime. Not sure how it will drive just yet.

Front:
Toe: 1/16" in
Camber: -3/4" both sides
Caster: 7.5 degrees

Rear:
Toe: 1/16" in
Camber: -3/4" both sides
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
How exactly is the caster adjusted? I noticed that there look to be two mounting holes for the steering arm, but I'm not sure how that affects anything. I'm assuming the upper one decreases the angle? I might have that backwards.
 
ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Briann1177 said:
How exactly is the caster adjusted? I noticed that there look to be two mounting holes for the steering arm, but I'm not sure how that affects anything. I'm assuming the upper one decreases the angle? I might have that backwards.
Click to expand...
The heim joints on the a-arms. You can lean an a-arm back or push it forward by turning the heim joints in or out.
 
redline

redline

Well-Known Member
Has anyone come up with how much one full turn is? I want to run 3% on track day but only 1.5% when on the street.
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
I think it is 1/4 degree per half turn. Do not forget to readjust the toe. I have not got my front end to push yet, nor have any of the experienced autocross drivers I have put in the car, camber -1.5.

Brad
 
redline

redline

Well-Known Member
i will be running 295 A7 hoosier slicks. I was tail happy also with regular tires but now I don't think that will be case. at any rate it is good to know the ratio so that it can be adjusted if needed. I am really interested to see what this thing will do with this type of traction. I am at loss where to set the suspension so I guess I'll go dead middle for the first 2-3 runs (until tires are fired up) and then start adjusting.
 
B

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Not sure what the deal is with my settings, but the car feels like it wants to wander all over the road. Especially at highway+ speeds. A little bit scary yesterday at full throttle and 70+ MPH. This is surprising because I didn't really do anything alignment wise other than the recommended threads showing for a good 100 miles and the car felt like it tracked much straighter.

I guess I'm going to have to haul it back to the shop and see what can be done. Not sure if anybody else if having similar issues with their setups.
 
George

George

Goblin Guru
Post a picture of your rear tie rod mount. Also look at the rear control arm bushings if they are old and spongy it will let the rear suspension self steer between power and deceleration. If you every hear in Kansas City with the car would be glad to check for you.

Brad
 
W

wombat

Member
Briann1177 said:
Not sure what the deal is with my settings, but the car feels like it wants to wander all over the road. Especially at highway+ speeds. A little bit scary yesterday at full throttle and 70+ MPH. This is surprising because I didn't really do anything alignment wise other than the recommended threads showing for a good 100 miles and the car felt like it tracked much straighter.

I guess I'm going to have to haul it back to the shop and see what can be done. Not sure if anybody else if having similar issues with their setups.
Click to expand...
i was having a similar issue, ran over everything in the front and rear with a torque wrench again and it solved it for me. i dont remember exactly what was not to spec, but suspect a bolt or two in the back.
 
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