BAR-AIR's build up in Buffalo N.Y.
- Thread starter BAR-AIR
- Start date
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Good Afternoon,
Here is something for all the kits that have the lugs for the donors cars retractable seat belts but are not going to use them. Lonny had talked about machining plugs but I don't see that happening anytime soon. Bolts didn't look good and I couldn't find cap screws in that size. So here is what I found.... M14x1.5 Hex socket screw plugs. (They are actually the same size as Ford's drain plugs these were a lot cheaper). "Www.mrmetric.com" $7.98 for a set of 4. They look good and set flat on both the tube and the diameter of the tube.
Here is something for all the kits that have the lugs for the donors cars retractable seat belts but are not going to use them. Lonny had talked about machining plugs but I don't see that happening anytime soon. Bolts didn't look good and I couldn't find cap screws in that size. So here is what I found.... M14x1.5 Hex socket screw plugs. (They are actually the same size as Ford's drain plugs these were a lot cheaper). "Www.mrmetric.com" $7.98 for a set of 4. They look good and set flat on both the tube and the diameter of the tube.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Good tip, thanks! Looks clean.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Good Afternoon,
Was able to run the car the last couple of days.... Have an issue with antifreeze circulation getting a "COOLING MODE ON" warning on the instrument panel. The warning comes on the same time as the low speed fan comes on. Doing temp readings on the thermostat housing engine side 220 degrees and the hose side of thermostat housing only 125 degrees. So first I think I have a bad thermostat. Seeing I'm going to have to drain the system I am considering going back to the stock surge tank. What have you been using to replace the relieve cap on the radiator. Or can you just block off the relief line? I did notice the cap does have an upper and lower seal.
THX,
Bruce
Was able to run the car the last couple of days.... Have an issue with antifreeze circulation getting a "COOLING MODE ON" warning on the instrument panel. The warning comes on the same time as the low speed fan comes on. Doing temp readings on the thermostat housing engine side 220 degrees and the hose side of thermostat housing only 125 degrees. So first I think I have a bad thermostat. Seeing I'm going to have to drain the system I am considering going back to the stock surge tank. What have you been using to replace the relieve cap on the radiator. Or can you just block off the relief line? I did notice the cap does have an upper and lower seal.
THX,
Bruce
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Replaced the after market reservoir with the stock surge tank along with capping the radiator overflow hose. Took care of eliminating the "COOLING MODE ON" code and also pressurized the system as it should. The only other issue I am having is the radiator fan is coming on right after engine start. Where before it was not coming on until the temperatures got above 200 degrees now it seems like it is coming on as soon as the system is pressurized.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
What we like and what's required for DOT inspections are two different things. New York is not the only state that is going to require bumpers. So a simple set of nerf bars interconnected in the front, and something similar to the hoop below in the rear (will also hold the license plate). NY requires that the bumpers are separate from the frame and extent through the area between 16"-18" from the ground both front and back.
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Just a quick update on the rear bumper. To see what you guys think.... (yeah.... I know move to a state that doesn't require them)
I have about 2" of movement that it can come in closer to the frame but will need to rework the muffler outlet pipe to get the additional space.
In addition with the spoiler mounted, the bumper and the spoiler should nearly line up. The front bumper attachment plates are at the plasma cutter should have them back in the next couple of days. Going to use the same bumper as in the back except just going to use the ram horns with the side hoops and move the upper "V" tube to the bottom for a single cross member (trying to get the right proportions).
Just a side note... was tired of loading the Goblin on and off the trailer but didn't feel like building an additional tow bar. Pulled an old tow bar that I use for VW Beetle it fits perfectly only had to drill two holes to mount it up to the front upper control arm eye bolts. Those tow bars are a cheap and easy way to tow the cars (short distances) without the hassle of putting it up on the trailer.
I have about 2" of movement that it can come in closer to the frame but will need to rework the muffler outlet pipe to get the additional space.
In addition with the spoiler mounted, the bumper and the spoiler should nearly line up. The front bumper attachment plates are at the plasma cutter should have them back in the next couple of days. Going to use the same bumper as in the back except just going to use the ram horns with the side hoops and move the upper "V" tube to the bottom for a single cross member (trying to get the right proportions).
Just a side note... was tired of loading the Goblin on and off the trailer but didn't feel like building an additional tow bar. Pulled an old tow bar that I use for VW Beetle it fits perfectly only had to drill two holes to mount it up to the front upper control arm eye bolts. Those tow bars are a cheap and easy way to tow the cars (short distances) without the hassle of putting it up on the trailer.
Johvans
Well-Known Member
I lived in California for a period of time for work and although the money and experience were great I knew I wasn't going to be able to live there long term. I moved to Texas three years ago and I've never looked back. I couldn't happily live in a state that was so incredibly restrictive of individual rights.
Given all the hoops that you are having to jump through I think it looks great! Looking forward to seeing the front bumper!
John
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Happy 4th of July....
Just ran it down the road. So here are the after photos....
Getting closer to NYS registration requirements. Waiting to get the upper cage, emergency brake brackets, and the front bumper mounts back from the powder coating. That should take care of the windshield, windshield wipers and padded head rests, bumpers, and emergency brake. Also welded tabs for hood pins to make it easier to get the hood on and off. You can make out the cuts in the hood for where the windshield tubes come through. Along with those just waiting on the fender mounts from Adam & company to complete the list of required items.
So that is where we sit definitely fun running it down the road but will be a lot more fun with it legal so that I can actually take it somewhere.
Just ran it down the road. So here are the after photos....
So that is where we sit definitely fun running it down the road but will be a lot more fun with it legal so that I can actually take it somewhere.
Silverback
Well-Known Member
Wahoo!
Grimlock13
New Member
Looking good man. I'm in the area local to you and would love it check it out in person sometime.
Johvans
Well-Known Member
Looks great! Any idea how the intercooler is working out?
Are you going to run side panels?
Johvans
Well-Known Member
The tubes being wrapped reminded me of my plan to run these covers.
https://timmcamis.com/shop/carbon-fiber-tube-protector-1-25-1-50-x-59-length.html
https://timmcamis.com/shop/carbon-fiber-tube-protector-1-25-1-50-x-59-length.html
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Good Evening,
*Grimlock give a call be happy to show it to you. My son "Nate" should also be getting all his parts out of powder coating any day now. So that you can see the complete kit.
*SliderR1 the bumpers are actually Kia Sportage rear bumper protectors, made out of 1 1/2" tube but they had to be cut and shortened front is still being worked on. Still trying to get it to not look like an afterthought.
*Johvans have not run the car long enough to give you an honest answer with regards to the intercooler (it seems to be working well with the 3" exhaust and muffler very little back pressure thus muffler temps aren't outrageous). The one thing I can say if you run it with the catalytic converter it runs way to hot it was actually melting the insulators on the muffler. The other problem I'm having is the mounts for the engine cover are on the top of the rear tube (I see on the new frames they are under the tube). With the tabs under the engine cover will mount right into them. With the tabs on top I'm not sure yet. So with that I'm thinking about making a new intercooler mount that raises the cooler up between the rear spoiler mounts and those upper tabs then I can still use the stock engine cover with the cooler above and then just make a fiberglass spoiler ducting air through the cooler. Just in the idea stage. As for the side panels I did purchase a set. They are just aluminum panels not sure if I am going to use them or not. I have been talking with a local upholster he is going to make a removable top with removable side curtains. We had talked about having snap in side panels also. As for the carbon fiber tube covers I like the look a lot, problem I can see with them is that upper tube has a bend in it. So you would have to have a bare spot or you would have to seam two pieces together. The foam on mine is temporary until I can have a set of padded covers made that would be like you would use on a jeeps roll cage.
Bruce
*Grimlock give a call be happy to show it to you. My son "Nate" should also be getting all his parts out of powder coating any day now. So that you can see the complete kit.
*SliderR1 the bumpers are actually Kia Sportage rear bumper protectors, made out of 1 1/2" tube but they had to be cut and shortened front is still being worked on. Still trying to get it to not look like an afterthought.
*Johvans have not run the car long enough to give you an honest answer with regards to the intercooler (it seems to be working well with the 3" exhaust and muffler very little back pressure thus muffler temps aren't outrageous). The one thing I can say if you run it with the catalytic converter it runs way to hot it was actually melting the insulators on the muffler. The other problem I'm having is the mounts for the engine cover are on the top of the rear tube (I see on the new frames they are under the tube). With the tabs under the engine cover will mount right into them. With the tabs on top I'm not sure yet. So with that I'm thinking about making a new intercooler mount that raises the cooler up between the rear spoiler mounts and those upper tabs then I can still use the stock engine cover with the cooler above and then just make a fiberglass spoiler ducting air through the cooler. Just in the idea stage. As for the side panels I did purchase a set. They are just aluminum panels not sure if I am going to use them or not. I have been talking with a local upholster he is going to make a removable top with removable side curtains. We had talked about having snap in side panels also. As for the carbon fiber tube covers I like the look a lot, problem I can see with them is that upper tube has a bend in it. So you would have to have a bare spot or you would have to seam two pieces together. The foam on mine is temporary until I can have a set of padded covers made that would be like you would use on a jeeps roll cage.
Bruce
BAR-AIR
Well-Known Member
Quick update of the progress with the front bumpers. Completed the front brackets. Didn't like the way the Kia Sportage bumper protector (that is the one I used in the back of the car) looked on the front of the car (sat way to high). So after a lot of looking at different bumper protectors here is what I found. The earlier Toyota RAV4 had a much lower rear tailgate thus a lower bumper protector. Proportional it looks about right for the front of the car plus I will only need to shorten the upper tube.
Rogan Blair
New Member
What color is the frame powder coated cause I love it