BAR-AIR's build up in Buffalo N.Y.

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I looked at the Chilton online manual for Nate's 2008, and it lines up with your diagram and what I see in my service manual.

There must be some kind of discrepancy somewhere between my physical connector and what the information says.
 
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BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Was able to do a little bit of finish up work on the car today. Finally got the spacers on the struts seated correctly. Had to put additional washers on the emergency brakes. (Pulling forward they were fine but were hanging up in reverse).
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Ended up taking the easy way with the windshield wipers. The cable unit I was trying to get to work looked awesome but the motor was just obnoxiously large (couldn’t find a suitable place to mount it and keep a reasonably straight cable). So two individual motors works good looks OK. Just waiting to change out my instrument cluster until the very end found a brand new one never installed. That will be my cars treat when it passes its inspection......
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As for DOT requirements I think I’m done. Still playing with the exhaust going to change the angle of the muffler to stand it more upright that will give the cooler more air flow and also put the heat further behind it. Other than that need some warmer weather to rework the front hood so that it can be water tight around the windshield and be able to shed water in a trough below the wipers.
SLOWLY it’s getting there.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
See and I was just saying how much I envied you guys (no maybe envy isn’t the right word more like @#$&*.?!) because you don’t have the same DOT requirements.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Working with a different nose cone (Lotus 7) so that I can make up a three piece front hood. Would like to be able to remove the center section easily to get to the mechanicals with out having to remove the entire hood. Then the section at the windshield can be fixed into place.
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It will need to be tipped slightly forward to get the angles right continuing up to the windshield and the bottom will need to be cut down a little to match the bottom of the frame.
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Curious to see what you think....
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Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
I think i like the wider nose. Visually, in the picture, it's hard to tell how "bonnet" will flow between the nose and windshield.
Once you get the bonnet sitting there, picture would show more. I'd like to see more.
 

Silverback

Well-Known Member
...Curious to see what you think...
I like it! I've had this battered 35 year old Caterham 7 nose clipped onto the chassis for a month. It's a good jumping off point. I'll probably do an aluminum hood and scuttle and maybe Brooklands aeroscreens.

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JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
Working with a different nose cone (Lotus 7) so that I can make up a three piece front hood. Would like to be able to remove the center section easily to get to the mechanicals with out having to remove the entire hood. Then the section at the windshield can be fixed into place.
View attachment 2897It will need to be tipped slightly forward to get the angles right continuing up to the windshield and the bottom will need to be cut down a little to match the bottom of the frame.
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Curious to see what you think....
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Where did the windshield glass come from? Is that custom or out of another vehicle?
 

Silverback

Well-Known Member
This! I've been planning on two separate brooklands style screens when I eventually do a hood. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with. I love them on old Healeys and MG's
Brooklands aeroscreens go well with the '1957 Lotus 7 replica' MSO.

Plan B is adapting motorcycle windscreens for a more aerodynamic look. Maybe something on the order of 2005-6 Honda CB600RR or a pair of vintage style cafe racer screens.

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BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Looks like the same one.
Pictures of the towbar on my build log June 13, 2017 page #69
If I still didn’t have a VW dune buggy (that I use the tow bar with) I would cut off the “U” flange and weld a simple angle on the end to make a really nice fit. Otherwise you will need some washers to use as spacers. Still probably the cheapest tow bar you can get. Works really well.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Had some extra time the last couple of days so was able to mount the stock hood to the modified windshield frame. Had a pretty good sized gap between the two especially at the outer sides where the hood drops away. So here is the starting point.
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Piece of 1/4” stock to bridge the gap.
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Here is the new fillet. About 1/2 of it will be cut away still but the shape turned out really good. I have extra fiberglass in the corners because the frame has mounting points for hood pins that will go through both the hood and the new fillet.
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BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
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Was able to get the hood mated to the laminated glass windshield frame. (Still needs finishing but will get me through to after DOT INSPECTION).
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Ended up putting a tab on the windshield frame for hood pins. That way I can secure the hood and the fillet together.
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Balphamore

Active Member
That is coming along nicely. Really like the work you did to blend the hood and your frame. Now I'm curious after the dot inspection. Are you going to run it like a stock city goblin? Or maintain the current design?
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Even though the upper cage and windshield are removable it makes driving the car so much more comfortable plus I’m starting to like the look of it. You can see a set of painted fenders in the front and messing with the paint scheme for the hood - same flat black with the blue stripes to match the powder coating - just playing at this point.
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Yes the front bumper is tilted (it’s just hanging on loose bolts)
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Balphamore

Active Member
Sounds like that will be a good choice on colors. Do you intend to make the stripes a metallic blue, or the same blue as the frame?
 
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