BAR-AIR's build up in Buffalo N.Y.

[BAR-AIR]

Yes those are 5 3/4” lenses. Just make sure they are the DOT lenses. Those were advertised as DOT lenses but when they showed up no DOT markings. Took about a month of back and forth with the manufacturer before they sent a set of DOT lenses. Nate’s car is using a set of 5 3/4” headlight shells with standard seal beams.

 

[Brian74]

Here in AZ I don’t think that MVD really cares whether they’re DOT or not... But after looking over the options and seeing your lights, the 5 3/4 looks great and there are a ton of options for bulbs. I still do plan to go with an LED style DOT beam assembly with a DRL circuit; many of these bulbs are made for the Harley motorcycles. Pricey but good quality.

 

[k.rollin]

Here in AZ I don’t think that MVD really cares whether they’re DOT or not... But after looking over the options and seeing your lights, the 5 3/4 looks great and there are a ton of options for bulbs. I still do plan to go with an LED style DOT beam assembly with a DRL circuit; many of these bulbs are made for the Harley motorcycles. Pricey but good quality.

I recommend the units from JW Speaker; I have had the 8790 adaptive unit on my bike for over a year and it's fantastic.

 

[TheNuker]

Those JW Speaker units looked expensive as hell, Pricing I was seeing was 350$ x 2

Nuker-

 

[Brian74]

I am probably going to go with a cheaper 5 3/4 housing to afford the JW Speaker beams. They appear to be among the top of the line and they’re DOT as well.

 

[BAR-AIR]

Just updating some pictures.
Ended up trading in my trailer for a bigger one. My 6’x12’ was a great trailer the problem is my car actually ended up being 6’-2” so I couldn’t back it onto it. So here is my 7’x14’ trailer I can actually pull the Goblin on and the weight is far enough forward. (Need to make a forward rock guard).

Friend pointed out that I missed the stripe on the rear wing.

 

[ctuinstra]

If you are actively selling the car, why did you get a trailer for it?

One thing we have to very careful of is these cars are very rear heavy and they don't trailer well unless you pull them forward on the trailer to keep too much weight off the rear. Otherwise they will fishtail really bad. I'm sure you know this already - this is meant more for the casual reader.

Beautiful trailer by the way. This trailer looks like the wheels are back far enough to balance this car well.

 

[theeulogy]

Those JW Speaker units looked expensive as hell, Pricing I was seeing was 350$ x 2

Nuker-

Stopped at a bike shop over the weekend and they recommended these....https://www.pathfinderled.com/

 

[redline]

Just updating some pictures.
Ended up trading in my trailer for a bigger one. My 6’x12’ was a great trailer the problem is my car actually ended up being 6’-2” so I couldn’t back it onto it. So here is my 7’x14’ trailer I can actually pull the Goblin on and the weight is far enough forward. (Need to make a forward rock guard).
View attachment 3912View attachment 3909Friend pointed out that I missed the stripe on the rear wing.
View attachment 3910
View attachment 3908

do you feel that you get enough air flow through your inter-cooler where it is located? I could see it possibly being more effective mounted off your wing mounting struts?? just an idea, the car looks amazing.

 

[BAR-AIR]

Just trying to finish up some of the last requirements for NYS DOT inspection. Still need to finish padding the sun visors and the dash.

I was able to finish up a small upright center console to house a master power shut off on the top (can’t really see it with the hood on - hated to leave the battery connected when the car sits for any length of time but to pull the hood to disconnect the battery was a pain). Console also has the switches for the hazard lights, dash dimmer, cigarette lighter (to power defroster), couple of spares.

 

[Briann1177]

Good idea with the battery kill switch. I thought about something similar for a jump point in the event the battery dies and as a battery charger point.

 

[Swift06]

Wow that's a beautiful build! I l love the way it has turned out.

I have a question about how the subframe mounts to the chassis. DF provided carriage bolts that go up from the bottom, but the subframe holes are round. How are carriage bolts supposed to work with that? What did you do to make it go together? Thanks for the help.

 

[BAR-AIR]

Good Afternoon,
Well after a lot of hoops and reworking the original Goblin kit. I can officially say “BLUE” is a registrable specialty built car in New York State.

That has been a lot of work to get that piece of paper...

 

[ctuinstra]

Congratulations! It sure does feel like an accomplishment and a load off. Probably even more so for you.

 

[Karter2026]

Thats great news to hear!

 

[BAR-AIR]

Good Afternoon,
Had a little time to play around with removing the electric steering motor. I have been driving the car with it un plugged anyway so thought it was time to remove some dead weight.
Here is the unit in the car without the motor..

Here is the new intermediate shaft in the car... currently just using the old bearing housing until my new bearing shows up...

Substantial weight and complexity savings without the motor and gearing.

Simple shaft was able to cut the ends off the donor shaft then a piece of 7/8” VW Dune buggy steering shaft to fill in the remainder (had it and - ID and OD worked perfectly - LUCK over skill )....

Bruce

 

[BAR-AIR]

Good Evening,
Had a little time to finish up the new intermediate steering shaft bearing. It really does clean up the front of the car a lot. (I have been driving it with it disconnected for a while and actually preferred it off).

Here is the electric booster and the old bracket on the left and the new bearing and bracket on the right.

Bearing attracted to new bracket

All mounted up in the car.
Just put an order in for the Wilwood master cylinders so that should finish cleaning up the front of the cars. With the removal of the brake boosters.

 

[BAR-AIR]

Good Evening,
I posted a smaller portion of this (July 2, 2016). Basically they are my notes from the electrical portion of the build. Seeing that I was working on the original harness for the Goblin I updated a lot of my notes plus I was sick of trying the chase down where a wire started and terminated inside of the wrapped harnesses. First I’m not that great with a multi meter plus it always seem to be a distance that I can’t reach both ends any way.

So here goes...
This will actually be 12 individual posts.... one for each of the major plugs or blocks...

Starting with the BCM
1. BCM Blue Plug J1 Body
2. BCM Blue Plug J2 I/P
3. Red Rectangular Block on BCM
4. White Rectangular Block on BCM

Next will be the ECU Plugs
1. ECU Black Plug J1
2. ECU Grey Plug J2

Next will be the Main Fuse Block (blocks)
1. Large White Rectangular Block on the Main Fuse Block
2. Large Black Rectangular Block on the Main Fuse Block
3. Square Black (Grey) Block on the Main Fuse Block
4 Small White Rectangular Block on the Main Fuse Block
5. Headlight White Fuse Block (didn’t update this but still useful)

Lastly just some of the Misc. Connectors which had wires coming from different plugs or blocks

So this is the starting point...
Hope it will be helpful to someone out there..
THX,
Bruce

 

[BAR-AIR]

BCM Blue Plug J1 Body...

 

[BAR-AIR]

BCM Blue Plug J2 I/P