BAustin's Extended Track - 06 SS/SC Donor - #157 Registered

[baustin]

Looks like if I go with the 50mm offset for the rear and 45mm on the front then I'll end up with the outer edge of the finished build ~1.2" wider than the front (.6" on each side). Calculated spacer thickness is 0 on the front and 20mm on the rear, which obviously wouldn't clear the studs so I think I'd have to chose a thickness based on minimum to clear the studs. I don't have a measurement on hand right now but I assume 32mm is about minimum. Spacer is because of going 5x110 to 5x114.3. Nothing is ordered on the wheels yet, I might change things up since the offsets push these wheels further out.

(in theory I'd like to be able to tow using my utility trailer to prevent damage but listed as 5x10 the width is under 5' by 1-2" and I'm not sure the goblin can get under that without skinny tires/wheels but then the rear gate is still an issue to figure out)

I'm using info from online that shows the Cobalt front axle track width is 58.7" vs the rear of 58.1", knowing the front of the Cobalt becomes the rear of the new kit car. Not sure if I've decided on the wheels yet or still want to change it up. I need to do some measurements in my garage soon.

 

[JSATX]

Current thoughts on wheel/tire setup for me is:
Enkei VR5 in Hyper Black
Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R tires
front: 205/50R16 (7" wide wheel)
rear: 235/45R17 (8" wide wheel)
wheel hub adapters from Motorsport Tech, 5x110 to 5x114.3 with matching hub diameters to Cobalt inside and Enkei VR5 outside, M12x1.5 lugs

Haven't calculated the adapter thickness but each of those wheel sizes have 2 offsets for me to choose from and I won't be reusing the stock struts (1 is broken entirely) but will be at least thick enough to clear the original studs.

That’s the same tire setup I’m running. I like them, but I’m going to go a lot more aggressive when these are worn out.

 

[baustin]

I might be going a different direction on the wheels instead of running the 5x114.3 adapters. I've been considering classic shelby/mustang style American Racing wheels a little and realized they have a direct fit that I won't need to run adapters or hub rings to use and fit my ideas pretty well. Halfway this project is a modern kit car, halfway it's my version of a hot rod.

American Racing Torq Thrust M, Anthracite, 5x110, 65.1 hub and they have both 16" and 17" wheels that look like the backspacing should work. I'll need to run through the calc on that but cutting the extra cost of the adapters and the wheels are $160-164 from Summit (ballpark price point).

 

[G Atsma]

Actually when the Mustang had these wheels they were meant to hearken back to the classic 5-spoke look that American Racing was instrumental in making famous. The "M" is just a modernized version of the old Torq-Thrust D

 

[askiles]

I might be going a different direction on the wheels instead of running the 5x114.3 adapters. I've been considering classic shelby/mustang style American Racing wheels a little and realized they have a direct fit that I won't need to run adapters or hub rings to use and fit my ideas pretty well. Halfway this project is a modern kit car, halfway it's my version of a hot rod.

View attachment 8845

American Racing Torq Thrust M, Anthracite, 5x110, 65.1 hub and they have both 16" and 17" wheels that look like the backspacing should work. I'll need to run through the calc on that but cutting the extra cost of the adapters and the wheels are $160-164 from Summit (ballpark price point).

I am doing the black Torq Thrust wheels on my Goblin. Perfect fit and I have always loved the design. Classic! Never goes out of style.

 

[baustin]

Couple things I skipped past on the build videos brought up some questions for me:
-I plan on using the Corbeau seats from DF with racing harnesses, the seatbelt bolts are just attempting to twist my torx bit when I use my breaker bar (2' steel pipe on my wrench): is there any reason to fight the lower/upper bolts for the seat belts or just leave them in the donor? The driver side belt is locked after it's accident anyways.
-do the 5 point harnesses come with the seat kit?
-I followed the build videos and did snip 2 sets of wires as instructed, 1 going to the license plate lights at the side marker location and 1 going to the fuel tank. Is there any use to fish those out now?

 

[Briann1177]

1. You don't need to worry about the seat belt bolts.
2. The harnesses should come with the seat kit.
3. I probably wouldn't worry about fishing the wires out, but I would definitely figure out what they went to. You should be able to extend them from there. Sounds like you snipped the brown wire for the tail lights. Not sure about the fuel tank wire. Will need a little more info on that one.

 

[baustin]

No concern about the wire being tail lights, I know I have those plus the side markers (coupe has obvious plugs for the outer corner and trunk lid tail lights. Good to know about the seat belt and bolts, I figured they weren't worth the trouble. I even tried my impact wrench and it did nothing except look like it would twist my torx bit.

The build videos instruct to snip the set going to the fuel tank (below the rear seat, front edge), I assume this is since the original fuel tank isn't reused, any wiring connection won't be reused.
They also say to disconnect the side marker and on the driver side to just snip the license plate light wiring that goes through the rear corner with the side marker wiring and then runs under the bumper to the license plate spot. My question is more about has anyone been using that to light up the finished license plate location (if required). If I watch all the videos before working through them, some of my thoughts would probably be answered but I'm not watching ahead.

 

[Karter2026]

The build videos instruct to snip the set going to the fuel tank (below the rear seat, front edge), I assume this is since the original fuel tank isn't reused, any wiring connection won't be reused.

You will need the plug from the fuel pump and the pump itself.

 

[baustin]

I'm looking up parts that I'll need to order for replacement or maintenance while things are disassembled right now. What I'm not decided on is the clutch/flywheel choice. I've seen folks recommending the GMPP clutch, I see that's available from crate engine depot (http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Ecotec-LSJ-Clutch-Upgrade-Kit-19212712-P10781.aspx). The ZZP listing doesn't really say the manufacturer or if this is entirely different (https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec/products/lsj-clutch-upgrade-kit). Obviously there are lower cost clutch kits from Rock Auto or others, I'm open to suggestions, I might in the future upgrade the engine but for now it's all stock.

Since I'll be splitting the engine/transmission apart and replacing the clutch, I figure I should replace the flywheel while I'm there. I don't plan on track/drag racing so I'm currently thinking a basic aluminum version is good. Same as with the clutch, ZZP has a good looking basic one (https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec/products/2-0l-f35-flywheel). They also have one that is far better performance quality but also more expensive (https://zzperformance.com/collections/ecotec/products/zzp-aluminum-flywheel-2-0l-f35). Any suggestions or thoughts here would be good.

Just making sure it's clear, I have a 2.0 LSJ with stock everything, MU3 transmission, aks the Saab F35, with G85 LSD.

 

[Ross]

ZZP brags about their aluminum flywheel by pointing out "improve shift feel due to the RPMs being able to drop faster"
but they don't mention that it makes starting out in first gear a little more challenging, as you can stall the engine easier too.
I'm sure you will get use to it, but it may catch new drivers off guard. Guess it comes down to what you want more - racecar performance or stock car easy starting. I am planning on using the GMPP clutch when I need to replace mine - I've heard they are good.

 

[baustin]

Some of my new/replacement parts have been come in:
replacement steering knuckle for the driver side (broken in half), replacement turn signal stalk, replacement driveshafts for both broken driver side and worn out passenger side
ZZP: lower control arm (rear mount) bushings, GM clutch upgrade kit, ZZP lightweight flywheel, bolts for flywheel installation, axle seals to replace leaking ones, clutch alignment tool

I'm all the way through the 7th build video (dash is done) and hopefully can take apart the rear suspension soon.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Some of my new/replacement parts have been come in:
replacement steering knuckle for the driver side (broken in half), replacement turn signal stalk, replacement driveshafts for both broken driver side and worn out passenger side
ZZP: lower control arm (rear mount) bushings, GM clutch upgrade kit, ZZP lightweight flywheel, bolts for flywheel installation, axle seals to replace leaking ones, clutch alignment tool

I'm all the way through the 7th build video (dash is done) and hopefully can take apart the rear suspension soon.

New parts are good to have.

 

[baustin]

Aaannndd I now have finished the 8th video. I'd say disassembly is complete but I need to go back over the car and make sure I've pulled everything. Even though I jumped the fuel pump relay till it stopped flowing, I had about 2.5 gallons still in the tank when I pulled the fuel pump, nothing a transfer pump couldn't handle though.

 

[JeffsGoblin]

I think you already know this, if you are opting for the parking brake, don't forget the parking brake handle assembly, cable tubes and cables. More info here: http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/parking-brakes.735/page-3#post-19950

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Recommendation - anything that can be unbolted from the car should be taken off. At some point you may need bolts/washers/nuts and many of the items can be sold off if you are planning to go that route. Just an FYI - I made money from stripping and reselling many, many parts my donor and I still have a few parts left to go.

 

[baustin]

On Saturday I went back through the donor and made sure I pulled everything I might want or need and then lowered it down onto the dollies directly (was using cinder blocks on top of the dollies instead of jack stands).

On Sunday afternoon I pulled the driveshafts (full passenger and what was left of the driver's side) and replaced the axle seals. I might hold off on installing the new driveshafts till later since they'll just be hanging in my way. I separated the engine and transmission and pulled the flywheel and clutch off. Different day I'll pull the flywheel and install the new GMPP clutch/pressure plate and ZZP lightweight flywheel.

Looks like the pressure plate and clutch I'm pulling off are LUK, not sure if these are the original or not but my quick google searches show these are likely at least OEM level not improved, not sure if I'm right or not.

 

[baustin]

I was reading up on the hubs (http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/bearing-hub-info-4-lug-5-lug-abs.456/) and it looks like I've got the style (512250) that will require a little extra work unless I buy new. The thought of spending that money on new parts to then cut makes me at least want to try to rework what I have.

I'm currently planning on 5x110 wheels so going the route of buying 4 new 4x100 hubs that were made for no abs isn't my plan right now.

 

[Ross]

Cutting those caps down was easy. A few layers of aluminum duct tape, and boom, your done.
You already own those parts, might as well try to use them... cheap solution if you succeed.
Or ask Adam if he is still selling 3D printed caps.

 

[askiles]

I agree, it was really easy to modify the ABS plugs/caps to fit with the spindles. Save the money, go that route.