BAustin's Extended Track - 06 SS/SC Donor

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
I think I've got all the vacuum/coolant/supercharger lines hooked up correctly. Quite a bit of forum searching has happened while hooking everything up. For example I didn't remember that the supercharger fill neck has an overflow tube that simply vents to atmosphere. It looked like it went somewhere but I didn't label it... cause I didn't disconnect it from anything.

I haven't actually started the engine since it's been in the kit car frame, I felt like getting the subframe in first. I don't have any coolant in the systems yet, maybe one day soon I'll take the chance to start it up. I want to get the frame off the urethane jack stand covers first, I can slide the car around on them myself, I'm a little concerned the engine vibrations on the slick jack stand pads would end up badly on the ground.

If anything looks out of place on these vacuum lines, let me know. I did cap the front side vent at the throttle body, visible in this first picture:
Can you please tell me where do you have these (circled in red) going? To and from?
10134
 

baustin

Active Member
Can you please tell me where do you have these (circled in red) going? To and from?
View attachment 10134
The one on the right: thats the brake booster line, runs to the front of the car through the tunnel. About 2/3 of the way down the engine I have the house clamp to swap to the nylon tubing that fit in the tunnel.

The other one, upper left of the 2: that runs from the back passenger side of the engine, I think it's the pcv breather? You circled the clamp that swaps the line to the nylon tubing that connects to the intake beside the MAF. I know that some at just putting a filter to vent to atmosphere there. I want to make sure the engine works as it was stock before I start doing further modifications.
10139
 

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
I think you might need to flip those two. If you leave it this way, I think you'll end up getting oil (small amounts) in your brake booster since oil come from the crankcase/valve cover, the reason people use catch cans. Can anybody else confirm? I'm definitely not an expert since my engine isn't finished yet. I just want to make sure you have it right.
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
Can you please tell me where do you have these (circled in red) going? To and from?
View attachment 10134
I agree with JeffsGoblin.
The left circle should route the valve cover breather tube into the air intake,
and the brake booster should also go into the air intake.
I'm not sure what he has on the right circle, but I used that air intake hose for the brake booster.
 

baustin

Active Member
I think my setup matches the stock routing, unless the Cobalt I got wasn't still stock:
10145


10146


I understand JeffsGoblin point about the possibility of oil getting to the brake booster line, I might go with the breather like Ross has in the future. Though the stock setup would've had that possibility anyways.
 

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
When you look at your Cobalt picture, the line coming from the valve cover is going to the intake tube (in red). The line circled in blue is going to the brake boost (most likely).
10163


... and in your Goblin picture it is basically opposite:
10164


Not trying to be a pain just hoping to understand the builds better and make sure we are all on the right page.
 

baustin

Active Member
When you look at your Cobalt picture, the line coming from the valve cover is going to the intake tube (in red). The line circled in blue is going to the brake boost (most likely).
View attachment 10163

... and in your Goblin picture it is basically opposite:
View attachment 10164

Not trying to be a pain just hoping to understand the builds better and make sure we are all on the right page.
Not problem at all, I'm trying to make sure I've got things set the right way and there's a bunch of folks here that know a whole lot about the goblins and cars in general that I don't have experience with.

There's enough wiring rework and tubes/hoses to reconnect that I'm sure I've got something wrong somewhere, any double checks and corrections are appreciated.

I think these pictures might clear it up. I know the air filter can point up but I felt like it strained the coolant tank too much due to the hose location and my coolant tank front clip is partially cracked from it's previous life in the cobalt. Sticking it down there kept things stress free for the coolant tank. The barbed fitting beside the MAF is towards the drivers back in these pictures, MAF is towards the middle of the car.
10165




The position you circled in blue above is about 16" of rubber hose that snakes down between the engine and fuel tank and connects to the nylon tube from the brake booster.
10167
 

Attachments

askiles

Well-Known Member
The crack in the header can be welded and since it has not split all the way around it should be an easy fix.
Or just replace it with a MUCH better looking header from ZZP. Pretty inexpensive. With the manifold being cast, welding it is never a great idea. It will probably just crack again.
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
Not problem at all, I'm trying to make sure I've got things set the right way and there's a bunch of folks here that know a whole lot about the goblins and cars in general that I don't have experience with.

There's enough wiring rework and tubes/hoses to reconnect that I'm sure I've got something wrong somewhere, any double checks and corrections are appreciated.

I think these pictures might clear it up. I know the air filter can point up but I felt like it strained the coolant tank too much due to the hose location and my coolant tank front clip is partially cracked from it's previous life in the cobalt. Sticking it down there kept things stress free for the coolant tank. The barbed fitting beside the MAF is towards the drivers back in these pictures, MAF is towards the middle of the car.
View attachment 10165



The position you circled in blue above is about 16" of rubber hose that snakes down between the engine and fuel tank and connects to the nylon tube from the brake booster.
View attachment 10167
Ah, you tricked us with the original photo. Looks like your vacuum tubes are correct.
 

baustin

Active Member
Over the weekend bolted up the rear suspension so the CV axles would be correctly pinned so I could actually run the engine (manual but in the air in neutral it will still spin the hubs. Then I filled the coolant systems, and put some gas in. When I pressurized the fuel system I started having a leak from the outlet of the fuel filter, got a replacement one for $15 from Napa and realized I didn't have the centering/retention clip for the filter outlet connection on the old one. New filter installed anyways and no leaks when pressurizing the 2nd time. Started the engine right up and it ran really nice. Donor engine had 76000 miles but minor replacement like that is still worthwhile I think.

I did have some smoke coming from the exhaust header, shut it down and could tell the smell was sweet, almost certainly from the pb blaster I put on the exhaust for the old studs. Started it up again and let it get to 185F coolant temp, just didn't feel like going further at the time. All the gauge panel buttons seemed to be working, turn signal stick worked, only 3 check engine codes since it hasn't actually driven yet: all 3 for the evap system that is removed. I expect the catalytic converter removed will cause a code(s) after a drive cycle.

I still need to wire in all my lights. Headlight plugs are by the radiator but the headlights and turn signals are not wired at all to that plug. Tail light wiring is still coiled up hanging on the frame behind the engine. I do plan on including a 3rd brake light, slightly visible in one of the photos before: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-38943b/overview/. I have all the tow bar kit wiring to install too and plan on installing 1x 12V outlet to the front of the tunnel and 1x dual USB outlet to the underside of the footwell cover.
 

baustin

Active Member
I've ordered my wheels from Discount Tire Direct, went with General GMax RS 225/45r17 on American Racing AR105 Torq Thrust M (anthracite gray) wheels. Got a shipping notification and expected the delivery on Monday. When I got home from work, the tire tread didn't look like I remembered from online, so I rolled 1 into my garage and pulled the cardboard discs off the wheels. Turns out they swapped my shipping label to someone else's order cause they shipped me black steel rims with Michelin X-Ice wheels (205/55r16 on 5 lug, 6.5" wide steel rims)... someone else is probably waiting for their winter setup and will greatly surprised when they get my summer tire setup! Distribution labeling mistake, shipping company delivered as written.

So I'll have to wait a little longer to get my actual wheels but I'm still a couple weeks from rolling anyways so that shouldn't be a problem. I just hope when I finally get my order that nothing is damaged.
 

baustin

Active Member
I'm thinking I've used the wrong tubing for the brake and clutch connections. From the reservoir I ran the nylon tubing for all 3 lines:
10287


My question isn't whether I can switch it, I know there are a bunch of options, my question is whether I need to...

Since I used the tubing from DF I don't know what it's rated for exactly.
 

Ross

Well-Known Member
The DF supplied tubing has been working fine for me. I believe it is rated for brake fluid.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
All of our tubing is fuel safe and brake fluid safe. Where your clutch line attaches to your brake fluid reservoir make sure it doesn't start bending it. just keep an I on it for a few weeks. We had one of ours that had started bending the plastic nipple so we had to re position the line a little to take the side load off of it.
 

baustin

Active Member
Awesome, I'll keep an eye on it though.
When I ran the line to the clutch, I warmed the tubing up for that sharper bend at the reservior. Not just the end but also along the length.
 
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askiles

Well-Known Member
I'm thinking I've used the wrong tubing for the brake and clutch connections. From the reservoir I ran the nylon tubing for all 3 lines:
View attachment 10287

My question isn't whether I can switch it, I know there are a bunch of options, my question is whether I need to...

Since I used the tubing from DF I don't know what it's rated for exactly.
I ended up using actual braided brake hose with AN fittings and ends. I knew this was going to work and last forever. Those lines aren't really under any pressure. Most people use the nylon lines supplied by DF with zero issues. I got crazy and tried using Tygon to begin with, and it ended up bleeding through the hose, and leaking at the clamps. It was a disaster.
 
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