Canyons trackframe LSJ-T Htown

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
The 255/50 16 R888 is what I ran on the rear of P2 for a long time. We did have to run a wheel spacer with the 16x8 RPF1. The tires are wide enough that they get into the strut tube. They are also kind of tall which is why I didn't go with them again (I went with 225/45R16 but 245/45R16 is better based on your horsepower goals).

I was under the impression that the R888 isn't on backorder and is instead being discontinued. It would be nice if they don't discontinue them because I like that tire.

Here are two places that claim to still have the 245/45R16 in stock:
Tire Crawler R888
Discounted Wheel Warehouse R888
I ordered them from discounted wheel warehouse and the next day they called and said thy are on backorder and asked if I wanted to wait for them I said no cancel it so I called toyo today and yes they are cancelling the toyo r888.... sucks that tire is huge in the car community everyone uses it such a beautiful tire but oh well I guess I'm going toyo RR maybe
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
I'll take a picture tonight, I'm a function over form kinda guy. Plus I'll plan to buy the fenders too.

Nuker-
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
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Also I lifted my fuse box up I was having problems with hose routing I was scared I was gonna close off the hose or have the hose knock me out of gear so now there is plenty of room
 

DanPerryy

Well-Known Member
I also raised my main fuse box with the ECU and TCU (I have an automatic) using a similar spacer for the same reason. Lonny and Adam have not had to do this and they have it fit, but I wanted to be safe and there is plenty of room. I have not checked if the engine cover will interfere on mine.

Your engine is BEAUTIFUL!
 
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canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Anyone know and got pics of the steering wheel setup? Not sure exactly how it goes together does the bearing go on the piece that bolts to the tab or the aluminum piece?
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Anyone know and got pics of the steering wheel setup? Not sure exactly how it goes together does the bearing go on the piece that bolts to the tab or the aluminum piece?
I posted several pics in Nukers build thread let me know if need something else.
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
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Okay so I figured out how the resivor goes but then I noticed the bolts that came with it were way to short so imma run up and grab some later..
I've been playing with A-arms and suspension in the front can someone verify all this and let me know how it looks before I tighten it?
And also are these the correct bolts for the front shocks?
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
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Okay so the new resivor does not have a hose connection for the clutch pedal and the old one has 2. I want to use the new one if I can but that requires drilling through the plastic and hoping I get all of it out then finding a fitting or a way to put the hose in there.. and good ideas on this?
 

PHerder

Well-Known Member
The top connection was open on my 2007 SS/SC but with all that was changed by the POs I have no idea of what it connects to. I tried looking up a replacement
reservoir but most stated that a replacement was discontinued or was in a "kit" that cost more than just buying another master cylinder WITH the correct reservoir. :(

Example: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2007,cobalt,2.0l+l4+supercharged,1433737,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

Reservoir kit (#1 in the picture): http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=364035&ukey_product=10494494
And this part number is listed as discontinued all most GM online parts.

I don't know if the top (vent?) connection is necessary for the manual transmission clutch so I would either use the old one or replace it and not try to modify the automatic version (which is what you have here).

YMMV.
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
The top connection was open on my 2007 SS/SC but with all that was changed by the POs I have no idea of what it connects to. I tried looking up a replacement
reservoir but most stated that a replacement was discontinued or was in a "kit" that cost more than just buying another master cylinder WITH the correct reservoir. :(

Example: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2007,cobalt,2.0l+l4+supercharged,1433737,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

Reservoir kit (#1 in the picture): http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=364035&ukey_product=10494494
And this part number is listed as discontinued all most GM online parts.

I don't know if the top (vent?) connection is necessary for the manual transmission clutch so I would either use the old one or replace it and not try to modify the automatic version (which is what you have here).

YMMV.
Okay cool thanks for all the info I had no idea about all that. As far as I could remember it's for emissions or a vacuum line so I'll just put a vent cap on it
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
For your clutch master cylinder supply line you can remove one of the barbed elbows from the top of your brake master cylinder that came with your kit and replace it with a tee and two barbed fittings. Fluid can then flow from the reservoir to the brake master cylinder and then through the tee to the clutch master cylinder.
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Okay so turbo is back so I filled it with oil and gas now she's ready to start checked all the wires got good fuel pressure all the grounds are connected and good continuity between each other. So I tried to start it by pressing the clutch in and turning the key and nothing at all the starter won't even move or make a noise there is a click sound (real lightly) from the bcm but that's it. My instrument cluster says low fuel (I guess the arm is stuck) Brake fluid, low coolant (trying to find the right plug for it) and power steering (have signal and power to all wires not sure why it isn't working).... anybody have any ideas? Not very good with electrical. I checked my crank start and run relays they aren't the problem swapped plugs into each other didn't change anything
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Okay so turbo is back so I filled it with oil and gas now she's ready to start checked all the wires got good fuel pressure all the grounds are connected and good continuity between each other. So I tried to start it by pressing the clutch in and turning the key and nothing at all the starter won't even move or make a noise there is a click sound (real lightly) from the bcm but that's it. My instrument cluster says low fuel (I guess the arm is stuck) Brake fluid, low coolant (trying to find the right plug for it) and power steering (have signal and power to all wires not sure why it isn't working).... anybody have any ideas? Not very good with electrical. I checked my crank start and run relays they aren't the problem swapped plugs into each other didn't change anything
Communication issues between the various computers. I fought that for a long time, check my posts on the brown and tan wires.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
If I recall, Lonny also had me check to make sure the throttle butterfly moves when the gas petal is pushed. If not then there is a communication problem between the BCM and the ECM. I made the mistake of cutting out the tan and brown twisted wires without soldering them together to keep the loop going. It's easy to forget when you remove the ABS or airbag systems as they go through those 2 big connectors.

Nuker-
 
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