Canyons trackframe LSJ-T Htown

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Well I’m not sure where to mount this heat exchanger. I mounted the intercooler pump in the stock bracket I got from a friend so I guess from there I’ll just put it right in the middle mounted from the top roll bar

If anyone has any ideas let me know

I need to make some brackets for the intercooler and for the heat exchanger I drew on the pictures so you guys can see where I think I will mount them. I will get something like a coated clamp to go around the frame then bolt on some flat iron or somthing.

Test fit rear wheels to see how close the alignment is and how close they are to the coilover
 

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BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Agree with Rich you should have 3 cross braces on the rear spoiler wing. (Has anyone had any issues with cracking of the wing or supports?)...
As for the mounting for the heat exchanger cooler...
here are the only split clamps that I found (reasonably priced) to fit on 1 1/4" tube.
IMG_1181.JPG
I like these a lot relatively small but you have to weld up a mounting tab to them. (So a removable tab you can use on powder coated frames).
IMG_1180.JPG

These are the ones that I am using on my intercooler (they are aluminum kind of big and bulky but actually look pretty good with my cooler -which is also large).
So I think that you could make up a simple frame between the front and rear tubes (that is actually removable) keeping it relatively close to the engine.
Speaking about removable are you going to use the rear engine cover? Just trying to see if anyone has looked at making an alternative cover while I like the look of the original, kind of a pain to take on and off even to just check the oil.
Bruce
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Agree with Rich you should have 3 cross braces on the rear spoiler wing. (Has anyone had any issues with cracking of the wing or supports?)...
As for the mounting for the heat exchanger cooler...
here are the only split clamps that I found (reasonably priced) to fit on 1 1/4" tube.
View attachment 2250 I like these a lot relatively small but you have to weld up a mounting tab to them. (So a removable tab you can use on powder coated frames).
View attachment 2251
These are the ones that I am using on my intercooler (they are aluminum kind of big and bulky but actually look pretty good with my cooler -which is also large).
So I think that you could make up a simple frame between the front and rear tubes (that is actually removable) keeping it relatively close to the engine.
Speaking about removable are you going to use the rear engine cover? Just trying to see if anyone has looked at making an alternative cover while I like the look of the original, kind of a pain to take on and off even to just check the oil.
Bruce
No I will not be running the engine cover. But those clamps look awesome and definitely somthing that I will use thanks man
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
So I have seen some of you talking about cutting your tunnel in 3 pieces how is that working for y’all and how are you guys fastening it down?? I’ve see rivets and self tapping screws someone was talking about welding nuts on the inside and bolting it.

I was thinking about putting a spacer between the bar across the floor and the plate where the shifter bolts to then through bolting it so it will hold the tunnel for a smoother quicker shift without all the flex
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
IMG_1184.JPG
IMG_1183.JPG
Here is the modified version of those clamps. Kind of a pain to make but work good on the frame.
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Okay guys I’ll give you an update tonight but for right now. I’ve bled the brakes 5 times and the pedal is still to the floor every time. Does that mean bad master?? It’s brand new but could be bad (it felt good yesterday but once I started it up it’s just straight to the floor)
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder first? Have you tried a pressure bleeder? The work wonders!

If you can plug off both ports on the MC, you can then test it to see if it locks the pedal solid and if so, then it's fine.
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Nope I did not bench bleed the master cylinder I’ve never even heard of doing that I just watched a video on it. Would that cause the brakes not bleed correctly?? And I do have a pressure bleeder and have used that and also just pumped the brakes and had a friend bleed it off into a bottle
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
It doesn't take much to "Bench bleed" them. You don't have to remove it from the car, just put fittings on the ports and hoses back to the reservoir and press the pedal a couple of times.

Are you seeing any bubbles when bleeding the brakes? Can you see the fluid move (using a clear hose, usually there is a small bubble you can see move)?

I assume you have the pads on the brakes and on the rotors, yes, I know this may sound insulting and I'm not trying to be. But if the pads are moving without restriction, the pedal is going to be soft.

One other method I use on ATVs and dirt bikes is to activate the brake while the caliper is off the rotor to push the piston about half of the travel. Then using a C-clamp, push the piston back in and push all the air back up the line in to the MC. It's easier to force air up then it is down to the wheel.

Usually a good idea to re-bleed them after it's been out on the road a short time. Sometimes helps to loosen up the small bubbles stuck.
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
I always wondered why they bleed at the caliper and not at the master cylinder since the air pockets are gonna float up but it is what it is.

I’ll pick up some of those plugs tomorrow and bench bleed it.

As for the lines they are coming out with maybe some tiny bubbles more like foam coming out with the fluid

I don’t get what you are saying about the pads moving without restriction. The rotors and calipers and pads are all on and I can pump the brake pedal up as much as I want and not build up pressure, but then when I roll the car back and forth the pads are dragging on the rotor causing resistance
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
If you have foam coming out, there is something really wrong and letting a lot of air in the lines. If it continues, I would think that it's the MC fluid level too low or something like that to allow air back in as quick as you are trying to push it out. You may see some foam at the very first, but shouldn't see much after a while.

What I meant about restriction is the rotor restricting the pads (and piston) from moving out. You mentioned that you do have them mounted on the rotors and that's all I was getting at. The reason you have the pads dragging even without being able to build up a solid pedal is you are pressurizing the air in the lines and they are somewhat pushing the pads against the rotors. If it was all fluid in the line, there would be no static pressure since you cannot pressurize a fluid. All the fluid does is transfer the motion on the pedal to the piston and once you let off the pedal, the piston (pads) will let off also. But if there is air trapped in the lines, that is staying pressurized and therefore keeping the brakes under pressure.
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
It’s not a lot of foam and I got just liquid to come out with no bubbles towards the end but I will try to bench bleed after work tomorrow and I will let you know how that goes wish me luck see y’all tomorrow
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Well I did start her up the other day. I didn’t have all the vacuum lines on but I did have all the intercooler piping on and she ran decent
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Okay well I think I have found the problem after bench bleeding my brand new master cylinder. So I was reading on cobaltss.net about people that have had problems with bleeding brakes and what not and all of them ended up using a pressure bleeder and that did the trick but one guy in there said that he tried everything and he couldn’t figure it out but then he figured out he put the calipers on upside down with the bleeders facing down. So I looked at mine and sure enough I do have 2 upside down so I’m thinking that’s what it is.

But also I do have several minor leaks and I keep stripping the master cylinder every time cause the line just won’t stop leaking so I tighten it slightly more then boom pulled threads (I’m on my 3rd now I’ll be getting a 4th tomorrow)

So tomorrow I will get a lot of brake fluid and pull all my calipers off and make sure all pistons are pushed in and file down where the brake line bolts to the caliper for a better seal and install new bleeder valves on the calipersI

Hopefully this fixes everything if not it’s the brake booster
 

canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Yeah I’ve seen that thread but it’s been awhile I’m gonna look and that line tonight and make sure it’s the right nut
 
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