canyon bolieu
Well-Known Member
That’s the plumbing for the LSJ-T it’s the first one they have done with my turbo type and intake manifold
Is that all DF plumbing for the SC?
Is that all DF plumbing for the SC?
Yeah that’s what I thought to but I meant did DF supply nuts to those bolts? or did they supply all new hardware for them?View attachment 2552 Not a great photo but you can see how they are wrapped. Haven’t had a chance to shorten the extra lengths. As for the nuts, I think they are expecting you to install into a factory car with built in nut plates for the factory belts.
Took the car to get an alignment today. The first NTB didn’t even want to touch it and kept giving me the run around so I had them call another NTB to see if they would and thank god there was a car guy there! He was all over it haha and he let me work on it with him the whole time!
My string alignment worked pretty good too I wasn’t to far off
I got some info from Lonny incase anyone else wants to know the specs they suggest
Alignment:
The more camber you can get front and rear, the better it will be for track use. However, while it is easy to add camber up front, the rear is a different story. Since we don't yet have adjustable top plates, the only way to adjust the rear camber is the method in the Cobalt service manual:
- Front
- Ride height: set to where the lower control arm is level to the ground with you (and a passenger) in it
- Toe: +.15 degree (toe in)
- Camber: -1.5 degrees
- Caster: 8.5 degrees
- Rear
- Ride height: Control arms level to the ground or slightly up toward the middle of the car. We normally end up with 7-8 inches from the ground to the lower lip of the subframe where the control arm slips in but this varies depending on tire size.
- Toe: +.15 degree (toe in)
- Camber: -1.5 degrees
Basically you remove some material from the lower mounting hole of the strut to create a slot. Then you can get a little bit of camber adjustment.
I'd say maximize rear camber and then match that setting on the front.
View attachment 2646 View attachment 2647
Did you get this in? You may want to just buy a plug that goes to the new sensor Ballenger normally has them in the Bosch section.Does anyone know about 5 wire Bosch wideband sensors?
I have a innovative mtx-l and mtx-l plus
The sensor is the same but the plug is different
A new sensor for the mtx-l plus is $177
A new sensor for the mtx-l is $51
They both have 5 wires that are the same color and same orientation could I buy the cheap one and swap plugs on them??
For $177 I can buy a whole new mtx-l plus with the gauge and all..
They sell adapters for the LSU 4.9 to the LSU 4.2??Did you get this in? You may want to just buy a plug that goes to the new sensor Ballenger normally has them in the Bosch section.
They sell the actual female plug you would just need to repin to fit your new sensorThey sell adapters for the LSU 4.9 to the LSU 4.2??
Oh yeah it’s the best cause your just getting out of a movie or eating somewhere and you can always catch a few races on the way homeIt’s nice living so close to Mexico huh
Lol idk about all of that but yes I definitely want to take it up to you guys to look over and give yall rides.We have decided at DF Goblin if you are less than 30 years of age you must de-tune your engine to less than 65 hp.
If you want you can bring it by the shop and we will go over all your suspension setup.