Carl's Track Goblin - 05 SS SC donor, Chassis # 39

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
I have the same lights on my car project (non goblin). Not sure how the GM wiring is but these scooter/motorcycle lights required a diode on the parking lights and the brake lights wire for my car circuit. The circuit inside these lights (cheap China) allows bleed over to the other circuit if one is on. So for example if I turned on my parking lights/head lights the third brake light would energize because of bleed over into the brake circuit. If I had the lights off but stepped on the brakes there would be bleed over into the parking light circuit. Hopefully you don't run into this but the fix is easy with the diodes.
Thanks for the info on that. I have seen the diodes for that issue. So far in testing I don't have that issue, but i do only have the tail lights and instrument panel connected to the lighting circuits.
I'll find out more when I source a third brake light/back up light combo and connect it up. I found this today that I might consider using.
61WOCrSOW1L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
My steering wheel mounting hub appears to have not been fully machined for the steering shaft splines.
Can anyone confirm this for me?
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Your steering hub adapter looks like mine. I think it's machined just enough to fit on and not slip.

I think the stock SCs have the same heat exchanger configuration as the TCs. If that's the case, those brackets are for mounting the HX behind the radiator on the square frame tube. You'll have to drill two 1/4" holes through the tube and run bolts through there. Though you could probably use self tapping screws too. I'd rather use bolts though.
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
That is as far as the splines go.
It's not the length of the splines but the depth I'm concerned about.
This picture might show it a little better. It's still hard to see in the picture.
15269505147831183300016693885314.jpg

If you look close, the splines a just barely machined into the hub. It's as if the splines are as deep as an engraver would make. If that makes sense.
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
nice work on the clips! do they seem pretty stable? I might have to create my own version of that.
They seem fairly tight at the moment. Out in the sun and air flow while driving might indicate otherwise. The PLA slides fairly easily on the powdercoated tubes.

I might try wiping a thin film of clear silicon RTV sealant to the inside of the clip and let it cure before snapping them on. That might give it a little extra grip on the tube.

If your're interested, I can send you the file.
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
Is that to hold temporarily for routing? Or permanent?
I'm thinking permanent, but testing will tell all. I just liked the idea of a little bit of a finished look instead of just zip ties.
Plus, once you design it and like it, you just push print.

Love the 3D printer. I was looking for a 2 1/8" rubber coated clamp to mount my fuel filter and didn't find one at the local HW stores.
I almost had forgotten I had the printer.
Spent a few minutes designing one while BBQing last night. Kicked off the print before going to bed and will try mounting it this evening to see how it works.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
The kits don't seem to come with enough coated clamps like the build videos show you need. When you need a variety of sizes and the minimum eBay orders are anywhere from 5 to 10 depending on size, it can add up quickly.

A 3D printer would definitely have come in handy.
 

Waterdriver

Goblin Guru
Watch the temp on that bar it gets **** hot when your sitting stile right above the header there!

Nuker-
Thank you for that nugget of info. Those clips won't last long made out of that material. I'll have to try out my ABS filament.
I had thought about wrapping those primary tubes. Guess I will now and see if that'll help. :)
 
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