Carl's Track Goblin - 05 SS SC donor

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Brian,
Cut the tunnel. Your either going to touch up the powder coating where you cut the tunnel (where you are controlling the scratches) or your going to be touching up the scratches on the walls and frame the first time you try to remove the tunnel. If your concerned about the cut two blocks of wood clamped on either side of the cut, tape the tunnel first and a new blade really only touched up the raw ends. Sectioned mine in to three pieces due to the emergency brake handle.
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Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
Hack saw cut on the tunnel cover? I like the idea, but mine is already powder coated and I know I'll make a mess with it. I better leave well enough alone.
Mine was already powdercoated as well. Lay down masking tape first on the cover, make your cut line, used a cut off disc on a hand grinder to make the cut. Dress the cut areas and remove tape.
Although I do recommend to move the cut forward or back at least one inch from where I cut it. Somehow I cut it exactly at the lowest point of the shifter bellcrank throw, which the ball end was touching the edge trim I used to cover the cuts. Ended up trimming some of the edge trim off which gave it the clearance it needed.
 
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Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
Thanks. Y'all talked me into it. Carl, I don't have any of my shifter hardware to figure out where the bell crank ends. So if I give myself about 1-1/2" from where the bell crank mounts onto the tabs sticking out, you think that will give me enough room? I'm assuming I need to allow for shifter movement too
Now that I look at my picture of it, I made my cut directly below the bellcranks pivot point mount. (The end of the brackets that stick out)
In retrospect, I would move that cut point forward (in relation to sitting in the car) of where I made my cut about 1 1/2 - 2in.
If you cut the tunnel, your going to have to drill additional tunnel cap/tunnel mounting holes. And tap the tunnel holes if going with bolting it together as Custrina did. Who I copied. :)
 

Brian74

Well-Known Member
Would you guys go so far as to recommend fabricating some stiffening brackets for the tunnel cover near the area where the shifter mounts to it?
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
I like the idea of drilling/tapping the tunnel bolt holes, but I'm wondering if there is enough tightening power in that relatively thin metal to give a solid feel. I think Justin was saying that rivets feel more solid. My tunnel is tight with wiring and cooling hoses, and I'd hate to ram a drill bit through that stuff while drilling out the rivets.
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
I like the idea of drilling/tapping the tunnel bolt holes, but I'm wondering if there is enough tightening power in that relatively thin metal to give a solid feel. I think Justin was saying that rivets feel more solid. My tunnel is tight with wiring and cooling hoses, and I'd hate to ram a drill bit through that stuff while drilling out the rivets.
Using the M4 bolts, it seems pretty stiff.
My take and past experience with pop rivets is they will loosen up over time if you have a constant flexing/load on them. Sure they're nice and tight when you install them. But after constant flexing they'll loosen up, you have no way to tighten them. Only option, drill out and replace.
 
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Briann1177

Well-Known Member
Cut my tunnel in half 2" up from where you talked about. Good call with the masking tape. I had zero chipping on the powder coat using a hack saw.

Thanks guys.
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
I would've been nervous about cutting it with a hacksaw too!:eek:
Hopefully we'll never have to take the tunnel cap off but it's nice to know it'll be easier if we do.
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
While modifying the tunnel cap, have you given any thought to the parking brake lever?
I haven't really given the parking brake a lot of attention up to this point. A little research on components and that's about it. I don't think I'm going to reuse the Cobalt's brake lever due to its size and weight. A much smaller, compact spot brake actuator.

Right now I'm trying to focus on getting it drivable and due some testing at some autocross's and track day events.
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
Question to those who have installed the lower solid motor mounts.
Did you have to source new bolts or were you able to use bolts from the donor?
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
Mocking up the HE to build some mounting brackets and procure some tubing clamps.







Left the HE hoses long since I'm wanting to replace with a larger HE.
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
Working on building a bracket, or brackets, to hold the intercooler reservoir tank. (Option B tank)
Wasn't really liking the area around the supercharger pulley as it is kind of crowded.
Looked at some Ariel Atom photos and decided to go their route of a mount.

Had some aluminum plate and cut out 2 4"x5" plates to mount above the coil packs.
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Still need to build the brackets that'll mount the tank to the mounting plates and then paint it.
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
I went Ace Hardware and was able to find the grade 10.9, 12mm, wide shoulder head bolts there. Also found the grade 10.9 shouldered nits for the subframe to motor mount bolts.