Chris’s 2007 SS/SC track frame build for autocross

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Found the location of my mystery purple and tan w/blk wires they go back to the blue BCM plug at the front. No splices just straight back.

1 minute ago

Post 50 by DCMONEY shows this BCM plug as not having these wires 3 and 4 : maybe its from a different model ? 678 are white 13 is pink I think it matches up but no wires on the diagram..
 

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DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Found the location of my mystery purple and tan w/blk wires they go back to the blue BCM plug at the front. No splices just straight back.

1 minute ago

Post 50 by DCMONEY shows this BCM plug as not having these wires 3 and 4 : maybe its from a different model ? 678 are white 13 is pink I think it matches up but no wires on the diagram..
06 ss has different pin outs.

Here's a link to 07 ss alldata BCM, ECM plugs pin outs.

 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
I ran a ground straight to the fuel pump and seems like the only code I’m getting now is p0452. The car starts and shuts off with the relay jumped, with the maf unplugged and with a different relay. I’m thinking maybe there some sort of vacuum leak or bad wiring somewhere.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
I used a circuit tester and found only 1 ground at the fuel pump relay that was coming through the pump brushes back. The other ground for ignition/relay trip was missing. I had no ground on the harness block that the fuel pump was on so I wired one in to a common associated with that pin. The car started and I let it run for a few minutes and shut it off. Now it starts and shuts off after a few seconds. No codes on my scanner. Going to try the DCT scanner on HPTuners this evening when I get home.

One note if I start it and press the throttle it dies instantly.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
VCM Scanner from HP Tuners had some 2D graphs that were only populating one row (1D graph), then I realized I had a bad MAP sensor. Cheap fix ($10.20), but the car ran better.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
What codes is it throwing now? Is the small arrow on the MAF sensor pointed the right way? Know anybody with HP Tuners? You can see what the engine sees thru the sensors.
I remembered Aaron’s issue with that and did double check it. The arrow is pointing towards the engine side of the intake tube. The little cavity or hole in the sensor is facing the filter side.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
VCM Scanner from HP Tuners had some 2D graphs that were only populating one row (1D graph), then I realized I had a bad MAP sensor. Cheap fix ($10.20), but the car ran better.
Is the Map the one on the supercharger?

Been doing some reading and it appears the oil pressure sensor can be in the pump circuit also and it supplies voltage after the initial start. Hopefully HPTuners will be more in detail than my code scanner.
 

Ross

Goblin Guru
Is the Map the one on the supercharger?

Been doing some reading and it appears the oil pressure sensor can be in the pump circuit also and it supplies voltage after the initial start. Hopefully HPTuners will be more in detail than my code scanner.
Yes, the MAP sensor was on my 2006 SS SC 2.0L. It has a MAP sensor for inside the intake manifold on the supercharger, and one outside for the barometric pressure.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Attempted to read/download the stock tune with HPTUNERS. Got a failed message... not sure what to do with this. “Controller unlocked: x11 Service Not Supported” I emailed HPTUNERS support for some guidance.

I started the car and captured a very brief log. The MAP sensor looks off the charts but of course this isn't running more than a few seconds. long and short term fuel trims Showed 0% for some reason.

No obvious codes with the VCM scanner other than EVAP that would indicate why the car would be shutting off.

Went ahead and ordered a new MAF and MAP just Incase.
 

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ccannx

Goblin Guru
I went ahead and verified all my high and low canbus wiring from the power steering to the BCM and then to the blue ECU plug at the rear. Everything checks out and the car is still shutting down 2-3 seconds after start.

I ordered a new throttle pedal in case my poor wiring messed up the other pedal and still no luck.

Verified all pins from throttle pedal go back to the same blue connector on the ECU and took a couple pics of the pins they land on back at the throttle for future reference.
 

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Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Unplug your MAF to eliminate it as a problem. It will run fine without it.

Put a pressure gauge on your fuel rail and watch it while it dies. This will let you know if it is a fuel pressure problem. You can borrow one from AutoZone if you don't have one.

When you depress your accelerator pedal does the butterfly move?

Did your donor run before you disassembled it?
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Unplug your MAF to eliminate it as a problem. It will run fine without it.


Did unplug the Maf and car started and shut off after 3-4 seconds

Put a pressure gauge on your fuel rail and watch it while it dies. This will let you know if it is a fuel pressure problem. You can borrow one from AutoZone if you don't have one.

Haven't tried yet but I found a new pump for 60$ shipped from Amazon should be here Monday. If it doesn't work I will borrow a pressure guage. From in town.

When you depress your accelerator pedal does the butterfly move?

The accelerator pedal does move the butterfly I wired it wrong originally and it still moved the butterfly but threw a code. I replace the pedal with a new one rewired and toned out all the pins yesterday to verify it.

Did your donor run before you disassembled it?

Donor did run well before I took it apart.
 
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ccannx

Goblin Guru
Trying to button up a few things I finished putting rivnuts in the center tunnel for easier reentry. I used m6 and they came out just right in the predrilled river locations. I was able to use donor m6 bolts to secure it down.

Tried to bleed the clutch line and fluid started pouring from the transmission/bell housing. Hopefully it’s just the rubber O-ring on the quick disconnect line. Going to swing by advance auto or Napa and see if they have an o ring kit today as I’m not sure of the part number or size.

I noticed last night the fans are coming on once the cars gets to about 130-140 temp range and the intercooler pump is running but the coolant from the engine water pump doesn’t seem to be circulating. Seems like the hoses are hot at the rear of the car but not at the front. May just not be hot enough for the thermostat to open yet.
 

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Tim Moland

Well-Known Member
Trying to button up a few things I finished putting rivnuts in the center tunnel for easier reentry. I used m6 and they came out just right in the predrilled river locations. I was able to use donor m6 bolts to secure it down.

Tried to bleed the clutch line and fluid started pouring from the transmission/bell housing. Hopefully it’s just the rubber O-ring on the quick disconnect line. Going to swing by advance auto or Napa and see if they have an o ring kit today as I’m not sure of the part number or size.

I noticed last night the fans are coming on once the cars gets to about 130-140 temp range and the intercooler pump is running but the coolant from the engine water pump doesn’t seem to be circulating. Seems like the hoses are hot at the rear of the car but not at the front. May just not be hot enough for the thermostat to open yet.
You probably have air trapped in your coolant lines stopping it from circulating. I had the same problem with mine. Solved it by forcing coolant from the reservoir tank through the system with compressed air. Make sure you keep enough coolant in the reservoir tank so your not putting more air into the system.
 

ccannx

Goblin Guru
Got the goblin running under its own power Saturday night so naturally I loaded the car up Sunday morning and took it to an autocross ! What better way to shake out the bugs, 10mm's, a 6 inch long bolt, coolant and some gas.... oops.

Everyone loves the car, definitely a big hit with the autocross crowd.

I managed to wipe out a wall of cones at the end of my last run and had a little damage to the front radiator just lost one of the clips that holds the fan to the back of the radiator.

The front radiator mounts got scrapped and hit a couple times from underneath from some bumps and low spots. I may consider raising the car a little in the future.

I have some coolant hoses I need to figure out, left one unhooked and never noticed until I spun out on the first run and splashed coolant/water on the course.

My shifter is not very user friendly I started every run in 2nd gear so I didn't have to make the 1-2 shift which was surely going to fail if I attempted it. The mount on the rear is flat and I think it should be at different levels like the stocker but I never figured out how it was supposed to mount.

My left knee makes contact with the key while under weight transfer, I need to research the push start thread to see whats needed to eliminated that.
 

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baustin

Well-Known Member
That hose you put a bolt in is the supercharger overflow hose. It doesn't connect to anything, just hangs there pointing down in the cobalt. Not sure how full you got that system but I think mine is supposed to be full when the coolant is only at the bottom of that fill tube (height of a hose thickness, not actually up into the full tube cylinder) if that makes sense.
 

DCMoney

Goblin Guru
Way braver than me. I tripled check everything, had 18 miles of just slow test drives up and down the neighborhood before my first road outing.
 
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