Chris Wylie’s track Goblin- 09SS donor

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Frame and parts are out for powder coating. Engine rebuild under way.
Street wheels and tires are here. Toyo R888R and Konig Ampliform. They are 295/30-19 rear and 235/35-17 front. For track use I will use 16” all around.
When I was searching for wheels and tires there was a ton more options in 15”. If you don’t already have your track wheels I would go 15. They even make some really wide like 15x9 and 15x10 for added grip.
 
When I was searching for wheels and tires there was a ton more options in 15”. If you don’t already have your track wheels I would go 15. They even make some really wide like 15x9 and 15x10 for added grip.
Wow. Your right. I hadn’t even looked around for track wheels till now. I just assumed 16” would be fairly common. Guess I will be on 15”s or have to find some really light weight 17”’s. You didn’t have any brake clearance issues with 15”?
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Wow. Your right. I hadn’t even looked around for track wheels till now. I just assumed 16” would be fairly common. Guess I will be on 15”s or have to find some really light weight 17”’s. You didn’t have any brake clearance issues with 15”?
None at all. There’s lots out there meant for spec Miata with added clearance. I know Bar had problems with Rota but most modern flow formed wheels should have no issues. And they are super light!
 

SliderR1

Well-Known Member
You can also find a variety of lightweight steel wheels for racing. Aero has a new line of 4 bolt steel wheels that are around $90 a piece. I'll probably go this route for track wheels.

They are obviously not very flashy, but not bad looking for a track wheel.
 
None at all. There’s lots out there meant for spec Miata with added clearance. I know Bar had problems with Rota but most modern flow formed wheels should have no issues. And they are super light!
You can also find a variety of lightweight steel wheels for racing. Aero has a new line of 4 bolt steel wheels that are around $90 a piece. I'll probably go this route for track wheels.
They are obviously not very flashy, but not bad looking for a track wheel.
Looking at the specs for my front setup and my 235/40/17 wheel and tire package weighs 40.5lbs per corner and rolling diameter is 24.4”. If I run the same tires and similar flow formed wheels in say a 225/50/15 I am at 34lbs and 23.9” inch rolling diameter. Is 6.5 lbs per corner worth loosing the width? Any other reasons to change besides tire cost?
 

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
Looking at the specs for my front setup and my 235/40/17 wheel and tire package weighs 40.5lbs per corner and rolling diameter is 24.4”. If I run the same tires and similar flow formed wheels in say a 225/50/15 I am at 34lbs and 23.9” inch rolling diameter. Is 6.5 lbs per corner worth loosing the width? Any other reasons to change besides tire cost?
Sounds much like what I was doing. I was wanting my cake and eat it too. I wanted big wide tires that didn't weigh much and finally realized I had to make a decision and get on with it. You can spend days looking at wheel and tire combos.
 
Finally got the frame and parts back from power coating. I went with black chrome but it looks like grey metallic.
Coated the sheet metal with polyurea and textured it.
I ran the hoses by myself and it was a nightmare. Finally got it done by tying the frame to my car lift and then pulling the hoses through using a winch on my Ranger. I broke a couple of ropes and tore the end off the hose twice but got it done in the end.
 

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JeffsGoblin

Goblin Guru
Looks great! Did you coat the sheet metal yourself? I've been thinking about using bed liner coating, but I have no good place to do it unless I do roll on.
 
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RichRich

Well-Known Member
I've read about people having troubles pulling the hoses through the tubes so many times. I didn't have nearly the issues that some did, definitely didn't need a winch. It's just crazy why some had problems. Maybe the type of rope or the generous use of "tire wet"? I used a durable climbing rope that resists stretching and it came right through. I tied a bar to the rope just for better grip but it was just me pulling while also holding the frame. I also used so much tire wet that everything was literally as saturated as it could of been. It was more than just generously applied

Anyways, should look into a quality 2 part floor paint that uses epoxy for durability. Never used them on sheet metal but I've seen crews use them on drilling rigs and they can last a very long time with heavy traffic.
 
Looks great! Did you coat the sheet metal yourself? I've been thinking about using bed liner coating, but I have no good place to do it unless I do roll on.
Thanks! My company makes bedliner type polyurea and urethane coatings. We have a spray booth and equipment for testing the coatings we make so we sprayed it there. Be careful with the roll on type bedliner, they tend to be quite a bet less durable than the spray applied 100% solids reactive types.
 
I've read about people having troubles pulling the hoses through the tubes so many times. I didn't have nearly the issues that some did, definitely didn't need a winch. It's just crazy why some had problems. Maybe the type of rope or the generous use of "tire wet"? I used a durable climbing rope that resists stretching and it came right through. I tied a bar to the rope just for better grip but it was just me pulling while also holding the frame. I also used so much tire wet that everything was literally as saturated as it could of been. It was more than just generously applied

Anyways, should look into a quality 2 part floor paint that uses epoxy for durability. Never used them on sheet metal but I've seen crews use them on drilling rigs and they can last a very long time with heavy traffic.
Man I soaked everything in tire wet. I bought 4 bottles and used most of it. I figure that the hose size and flexibility vary from hose to hose and that probably has a lot to do with it. And the finish of the pipe ID your pulling into.
 
During my engine rebuild we discovered that it had piston, cylinder, and main bearing damage. Due to this I need to bore it out slightly. The stock bore is 86mm and pistons are available in 86.5mm but I cannot find a head gasket for that bore size. Anyone have an idea? I found some with 88mm bore but I don’t want to go that big with the reported issues of weak cylinder walls. And I have already bought 86.5 mm forged pistons.
 
After taking several months off for a variety of reasons the project is finally progressing again. I am considering moving the fuse box location in order to use that space for the turbo. Has anyone done this or know anyone that has?
 

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