Coating options for tube frame and control arms

[KSLunsfo]

Hey guys,

I've been mulling over the options of coating the frame in addition to powder coating. My main hesitation to powder coating is that re-coating becomes an issue down the road if for any reason I want to modify the frame with some kind of mounting brackets as one general example (even though chances may be slim). I could paint the frame with an automotive grade paint for essentially the cost of materials (family connection). This would be far superior to a "rattle can" paint job obviously and would look very good but would still be subject to chipping from road debris. This would at least give me the option to repaint a small area of the frame if the need ever occurred.

I wanted to get opinions of those that have already built, in the process, or planning to build a goblin of pro's/con's to different coating options that was considered. Also, if there are reasonable options besides powder coat and automotive paint I would love to hear about them.

Thanks,
Kyle

 

[JeffInWA]

I was thinking about trying VHT roll bar and chassis paint on my frame for the same reasons you've mentioned - I know I'm going to want to change things all the time, which means repainting.

I painted a small section of my Fj crusier's frame with the stuff about 2 years ago and it's held up very well. It was a body mount bracket that I chopped back just behind the front wheel, so it gets hit with road debris all the time.

 

[ccannx]

Hey guys,

I've been mulling over the options of coating the frame in addition to powder coating. My main hesitation to powder coating is that re-coating becomes an issue down the road if for any reason I want to modify the frame with some kind of mounting brackets as one general example (even though chances may be slim). I could paint the frame with an automotive grade paint for essentially the cost of materials (family connection). This would be far superior to a "rattle can" paint job obviously and would look very good but would still be subject to chipping from road debris. This would at least give me the option to repaint a small area of the frame if the need ever occurred.

I wanted to get opinions of those that have already built, in the process, or planning to build a goblin of pro's/con's to different coating options that was considered. Also, if there are reasonable options besides powder coat and automotive paint I would love to hear about them.

Thanks,
Kyle

I plan on doing a coat of POR15 then paint and clear it. Going to use truck bed liner paint for the floor and firewalls.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

ccannx is doing exactly what I plan to do - POR15 (grey), 2K overcoat (white - I live in the desert) and clear on the parts that will see stone kick ups from the tires. This stuff is as tough as powdercoat and can be touched up reasonably well if changes are made.

 

[Karter2026]

Hey guys,

I've been mulling over the options of coating the frame in addition to powder coating. My main hesitation to powder coating is that re-coating becomes an issue down the road if for any reason I want to modify the frame with some kind of mounting brackets as one general example (even though chances may be slim). I could paint the frame with an automotive grade paint for essentially the cost of materials (family connection). This would be far superior to a "rattle can" paint job obviously and would look very good but would still be subject to chipping from road debris. This would at least give me the option to repaint a small area of the frame if the need ever occurred.

I wanted to get opinions of those that have already built, in the process, or planning to build a goblin of pro's/con's to different coating options that was considered. Also, if there are reasonable options besides powder coat and automotive paint I would love to hear about them.

Thanks,
Kyle

See my build log. My chassis is painted with single stage automotive paint. So far holding up well except for the self inflicted chips and nicks

(SOLD)Karter2026's City Chassis 09 LT XFE, PA Build #72- Registered

So about a week or two after I sold my middle daughter's 07 cobalt ( June 2017). My oldest daughter’s boyfriend sent me the link for the Goblin website. I immediately said no and went about my day. But lurking in the back of my head was this Goblin and the car I just sold. I have for years...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Torchandregdoc]

I haven't tried this stuff, but I've heard that it works well.

 

[Ross]

I haven't tried this stuff, but I've heard that it works well.

Wow, repair work on powder coating was one of the reasons I painted my frame. Good to know, better if you can get the exact powder used on your frame.

 

[RouteAbel]

I haven't tried this stuff, but I've heard that it works well.

Sweet! I'm going to order some and some powder from prismatic powders. I wonder if I could get it to work with my airbrush. That would be awesome to be able to airbrush match my power coated frame for some detail work I want to do on the hood.

 

[KSLunsfo]

Thanks for the input guys, it's much appreciated! Seems there's a number of good options out there, decisions decisions... I will do some research on these other options, I still have a couple months or more to figure it out at least.

See my build log. My chassis is painted with single stage automotive paint. So far holding up well except for the self inflicted chips and nicks

Ron (Karter), I've started looking through your build log, it's very well documented. I need to dig through the build logs, that's about the only area of the forums I haven't spent much time yet.

 

[Oldchevyguy]

I plan on doing a coat of POR15 then paint and clear it. Going to use truck bed liner paint for the floor and firewalls.

Hi. POR 15 is for rusty metal. Why would you use it on new metal? A good primer would be a better idea in my opinion

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Primer sits on top the metal, POR15 bonds with the metal and works on rusty or new metal. The prep before applying the base coat etches and partially oxidizes the metal to make the bond. POR15 depends upon humidity to cure, unlike regular paint products. It is as tough or tougher than powder coat and can be fixed, unlike powder coat. Have you ever used POR15? Don't knock it until you've tried it.

 

[ccannx]

The POR came out great my spray job afterwards no so much. If i did it again I would POR do a light sand then maybe use a gloss paint or clear. The metal flake stuff I used was a pain it kept clogging up and splattering everywhere. Its a Monet !

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Spraying metalflake is an art in itself and requires special spray tips that clog less - they will clog after time no matter what. I've sprayed it in the past and never did get the hang of it, but my cousin could spray it and it would come out perfect almost every time. Go figure. Sorry to hear that your topcoat didn't come out as well as you would like. Finish sanding may help before you apply a clear coat.

 

[KSLunsfo]

Still researching things here, particularly the POR15. The more I research it the more I'm liking it. I called them up to ask a few questions and mentioned metal flake and he said they do not recommend adding any metal flake to the POR15 or 2K overcoat. I like the idea of a metallic frame though... ccannx, what did you use for your spray job, was it the 2K product or an automotive paint? It may explain why you had difficulty spraying it if you used 2K...

 

[Oldchevyguy]

POR 15 does not have UV protection, and must be over coated with another paint product. I'm going to use it as a primer with a base coat/ clear coat system. You could add flake, or other effect powder to the clear coat. Always follow with clear without flake to bury it.

 

[ccannx]

The POR went on great and is tough as nails. The problem I had was with the spray paint I used and not prepping my surface well. The POR is extremely hard when it dries and is hard to scratch even with a wire brush so the spray I used barely holds on.

I was at Bass pro not to far back and remember seeing some awesome flake jobs on the boats. I think they use gel coats though.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Yep, the POR15 will dry within 24 hours - typically - and if you do not get an overcoat (2K, urethane, enamel, etc.) on it before then, you will have to sand it to get the top coat to stick. I made that mistake the first time I used it and ended up spending hours with a power sander getting the surface to a matte finish to accept the top coat. Once the chassis was done it looked great and still is no rust today (15 years later) on a Jeep YJ living up in the rust belt (northern Illinois).

 

[Oldchevyguy]

I'm planning on using por15 on my chassis. I ordered the three part kit that includes the cleaner and prep wash. I plan to use base coat, clear coat silver on the silver por15. I find no mention of timing of over coat in the company's information, only that it can be painted in 4 to 6 hours. What I see above in this post is that you want to paint the overcoat soon after to avoid a lot of sanding? The por15 is a completely different product than normal automotive paint. Will it chemically adhere?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Being different than paint, the POR15 actually creates a bonding layer - using iron oxide - to the steel. What you should see after using the cleaner and prep is a very light rust color on the steel when it is ready to be base coated. This oxide layer is what the basecoat chemically bonds to and created the rock-hard finish that resists chips and rust. POR15 cures in a humid environment - the more humid the faster it cures. Myself being in a desert environment it will take many hours to cure, giving me plenty of time to get the topcoat on within the 24 hours. Please be sure to Google the POR15 application process, there are several videos that give a good explanation of the product and process to get the desired finish.

 

[OptimizePrime]

I'm planning on a mix of POR15 Bed Liner and Gloss Black for different textures. I also purchased the cleaner and prep wash but here's my dilemma, I'm going to build the Goblin first and make sure everything is where I want it and then tear it down and paint. There's a time gap that I need to have the frame coated with something to prevent rust, which is logically a self-etching primer. POR15's self-etching primer is comically expensive for what it is ($32 + shipping)....

(newb question coming) Do I HAVE to use the POR15 SE primer or can I just use any standard SE primer? With POR15 being a different animal, I don't want to err on the side of financially conservative just to have it flake off a short time after.