Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Where did you find the schematic for your gauge cluster that shows what traces to cut to disable lights like ABS, traction control etc?
ctuinstra's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor **Licensed**
- Thread starter ctuinstra
- Start date
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Yes. I'm happy with them.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I followed the traces. They are really small so I verified with a meter.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Getting really close to setting it down on the ground. I will say that the car being high off the ground has been a pleasure to work on; so I have waited until the last minute to drop it. Kaleb is getting excited, admittingly so am I. Since he is off this week for Spring Break, I took off work also so we could work on it to make sure it's ready for inspection.
Here he is finishing up the wiring to the lights. I was surprised the headlamps had LED bulbs in them.
Here he is finishing up the wiring to the lights. I was surprised the headlamps had LED bulbs in them.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
In order to stabilized the center tunnel cover for shifting purposes, we drilled and tapped four more holes around the shifter and installed M4 screws. I did not rivet the cover on but instead drilled and tapped all the holes to use M4 screws so we can remove the cover if needed without too much trouble.
I added the two right screws to both sides.
I added the two right screws to both sides.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
The cover is supposed to be riveted on? It looks to me like they are tapped, maybe? But I can't really tell because of the powder coat.
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JSATX
Goblin Guru
No they aren’t threaded. Meant to be riveted on. I’m also replacing with screws. And cutting the tunnel in half. With seats and firewall installed it is very difficult to remove the full length tunnel.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
That's a good idea. I wish I would have known of that before powder coating. We could have used that just last night working on the car.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
I don't have my seats or tunnel cap in so I'm having a hard time visualizing. Is the cap still a PITA to remove even without the mounting hardware? Or is it just a matter of it being a pain to get to the fasteners with the seats in?
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
The cap is very long and goes the full length, actually it's slightly longer, it will go into the cutout of the rear panels. Therefore you cannot just lift it straight up. You have to lift the front slightly, then slide it back some farther into the rear panel and then lift the front more and around to clear the harness and then eventually pull it out. With the center dash crossbar in the way, you have to lift one side or the other out at an angle since it's so long. This is without the fiberglass hood on, with it on, I'm not sure if it can even be removed. Cutting it in half would allow you to remove one section or the other much easier.
You have to remove the seats to get to the rivets or screws in either situation. It might even be wise to weld the carriage bolts through the bottom of the frame so the seats are easier to remove and install with just dealing with the nuts. Not that the bolts are difficult, but just the nuts makes it easier.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
That is a good point. I think I will make my cap a three piece. It may end up in four pieces with the hand brake in there also.
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Keep in mind, the length and mounting points are what keep it rigid. If you do cut it up in multiple pieces, you will need many more attachment points. I do think that cutting it into sections is a good idea and now I wish I would have. I can but then can't easily fix the powder coating. I could use edge material or something on it though. Thoughts....
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Why would you need to remove the tunnel cap anyways? Just curious. I would think that as long as you make sure you have all the wiring, cooling hoses or whatever running through the tunnel beforehand, you can can seal it up and be done, right? Or am I missing something?
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
That is true, in theory. Murphy's Law tends to come in to play often in my life. As soon as I seal it up permanently, I would want to get back into it for some reason. I tend to modify, upgrade and add on items, and in the future it will make it much easier to be able to pull a wire for instance or even trace and test wires, etc.
KJP
Well-Known Member
Did the screws seem to help with rigidity? I would think the wings there would be what gave a bit of flex
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
I loosely placed my tunnel cap into position, and it comes about 2-1/4" short of the actual end of the tunnel. It almost appears to end flush with the firewall. A little bit might stick out past the sheet metal, but not too bad. I can definitely see how it would be a pain if if extended all the way to the end of the tunnel.
Chad, does your cap end up just short of the actual end where the brake tee goes?
Chad, does your cap end up just short of the actual end where the brake tee goes?