ctuinstra's City Goblin - 07 SS/SC donor **Licensed**

[JSATX]

Mine extends about 2" past the firewall, and about an inch short of the tunnel channel. The main problem is once the shifter cables are installed there is almost no room to wiggle the tunnel cover off.

I have taken it off twice, added a boost gauge and then later an oil pressure gauge. I originally laid in an extra wire which I thought was smart until I couldn't find it when I needed it haha. Now I have a string in the tunnel I can pull wires through with.

 

[ctuinstra]

I am debating on welding in some small nut plates to secure my tunnel cover.

That wouldn't be a bad idea. The tunnel metal is thick enough that tapping the holes in it should work unless you really get mean with the screws. The screws that I'm using came from copiers that we work on. The are in metal about the same thickness and get taken in and out many times over the life of the machine and as long as no one over-torque them, then will last. But it never hurts to use beefier nuts.

 

[ctuinstra]

I wasn't quite prepared but one thing lead to another and someone was all too eager, so we dropped it to the ground and rolled it out the door for the first time. At first she wouldn't even crank when all the other times in the garage it would every time. It took us a bit to figure out if you pressed the brake, the engine would NOT crank. Also if it didn't matter if the clutch was in or out, as long as your foot was not on the brake. Quite a dangerous setup I would say. The two connectors where swapped between the clutch and the brake. Really odd because the wiring doesn't fit well when corrected.

We have a lot of little things to do and tweak yet. I didn't get enough coolant in the block side. She's running really rich, may have to do some tuning. Still have to plumb the intercooler. But she runs!!!

We don't have a local street to take it out on. Our driveway leads out on to a major route highway and that would not be good to get caught out there. I let him test drive it first and he kept it nice and easy. Sorry if the video is so crappy, I was caught off guard and wasn't prepared to take a good video.

 

[ctuinstra]

A couple of "artistic" photos I took the other day with my daughters camera.

 

[TheNuker]

Glad to see it moving!

Mine is running rich as hell also you can just tell. Once the upgrade parts get here i'm going to have a place here in KC dyno tune it.

Nuker-

 

[JSATX]

Looks awesome! Nice job.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Looks great. clean build

 

[JSATX]

Kaleb has designed and printed a button dash for the car. This print has recessed text in it that I attempted to paint with a hair.

We used latching and non-latching buttons found here:

Latching:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQRM42P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
View attachment 3105

Non-latching:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I9KDTZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
View attachment 3106

These are the connectors we used so they could easily be removed:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5BMXKG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
View attachment 3107

It was very difficult to get a good picture of the dash as it's lit up, the lights mess with the exposure. In person it looks fantastic with the white light (other colors are available). They are wired to the original small PWB found inside the steering wheel controls I posted earlier. The PWB is mounted in a sealed box that Kaleb made and mounted to the back of the dash. The lettering looks much better in person, it's just so hard to get a good picture of it.

View attachment 3108 View attachment 3109 View attachment 3110 View attachment 3111

So how exactly did you wire the info and return button? I’m having trouble getting it to work. Lonny said you had to install resistors inline but I don’t remember any of the specifics.

 

[ctuinstra]

I have a thread here about how I did it. Keep in mind, this is from an '07 SS and it seems that some of the other models/trims are wired differently.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/cruise-and-info-button-circuit.499/

In this wiring diagram, the Cruise drawing has an error in it, but the Info/Enter are correct.

I used the original PWB that was in the steering wheel and soldered wires to the switch contacts on the PWB and then ran those wires to my dash buttons. I also soldered a wire on the PWB on the pin (sorry, I don't remember the pin number) for the Info/Enter and ran that to the dash wire for Info/Enter. The circuit also has a ground (not clearly identified in the pic below). Do not worry about the illumination circuit on the PWB. You can use the Illumination wire from the harness to light the LED on the dash, but I chose to light it from an ignition circuit so they were on all the time.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

Can you post a picture of your heat exchange set up?

 

[ctuinstra]

Can you post a picture of your heat exchange set up?

It's currently sitting in a box on the bench. I'm working on a custom mount for it. I have a purchased a heat exchanger from frozenboost.com and all the plumbing, just need to mount it. That will be the next thing I will work on.

 

[ctuinstra]

Glad to see it moving!

Mine is running rich as hell also you can just tell. Once the upgrade parts get here i'm going to have a place here in KC dyno tune it.

Nuker-

After you have them dyno tune it, have them give you the file. I may end up with HP Tuners and trying to clean mine up a bit. I'm not saying I'm going to be an expert and perfect the tune, just run the log and see what is way out of whack. Having another file to compare on the same motor would help. Besides, you can send the file off to have it tweaked and sent back in the future.

 

[ctuinstra]

We were having a problem with the body hitting the switch on the clutch. I guess we have a style of clutch that is different than most. I believe the newer vehicles use different (round) switches and the mounts don't stick up as high. Lonny offered to help come up with a bracket to reposition the switch, but I wanted to come up with something pretty quick and easy. So we used a small microswitch that came off of an old copier years ago. It mounted right up with a couple of screws. I even had the molded spade connector that went with it. Then I trimmed off the old mount and the top of the clutch pedal.

Here is where it's hitting the body.

The new switch.

 

[Lonny]

That is awesome. We may have to borrow your design.

 

[Briann1177]

Interesting. So if I understand correctly, the switch is normally open, then when you push the clutch in that action depresses the metal tab and closes the switch contacts?

 

[ctuinstra]

Interesting. So if I understand correctly, the switch is normally open, then when you push the clutch in that action depresses the metal tab and closes the switch contacts?

There are two switches. This one on the top is depressed when the clutch is not. The switch makes contact while the clutch is not depressed. We believe this is to activate the cruise control. When the driver presses the clutch in, it will open the switch and drop the cruise control to prevent the cruise control from trying to maintain speed.

The other switch is on at the bottom, this is the one that tells the ECU and BCM the clutch is full depressed and ready to start.

 

[ctuinstra]

Took the car in to get it aligned this morning. A local shop was very willing to do it and let me work with them. I didn't even attempt to get it very straight before taking it in, although it wasn't too bad to start with.

I was very concerned about the adjustments with the car loaded and unloaded. I knew that they would change a lot with passengers and sure enough. He took measurements without passengers and then we both sat in it. When there was just a driver, it changed the rear passenger camber a lot. So I elected to sit in the middle the entire time while he adjusted most of it. He was great to work with and printed out many sheets along the way so we could see what was happening. I told him that I would adjust the front camber and caster now that I have a baseline and would bring it back later to fine-tune the other adjustments again. We plan to road test is some first to see what else we might want to tweak along the way.

Everyone was very interested in the car! It was so weird when setting up the appointment and the guy asks what is the make/model. "It's a what? I don't have that in the system". It's okay, I brought the numbers with me. They were very nice and accommodating!

 

[ctuinstra]

Well, we passed the much dreaded inspection. I don't know why I worried so much. He was done pretty quick and I was on my way. Then I headed to the Department of Revenue for the title application. That was going well until we got to the invoice part. She wasn't sure about the invoices I printed out from the webpage. This was one of the earlier invoices I received. The later ones look much more like an actual invoice. They did finally pass it. Now I just have to wait for the call from the Highway Patrol so they can put the number plate on (Nuker, where did they put yours?).

I really need to take the time to put a good post about applying for a title in Missouri while it's still fresh on my brain. There is a lot to know.

 

[TheNuker]

Well, we passed the much dreaded inspection. I don't know why I worried so much. He was done pretty quick and I was on my way. Then I headed to the Department of Revenue for the title application. That was going well until we got to the invoice part. She wasn't sure about the invoices I printed out from the webpage. This was one of the earlier invoices I received. The later ones look much more like an actual invoice. They did finally pass it. Now I just have to wait for the call from the Highway Patrol so they can put the number plate on (Nuker, where did they put yours?).

I really need to take the time to put a good post about applying for a title in Missouri while it's still fresh on my brain. There is a lot to know.

View attachment 3392

I just claimed the frame receipt basically stage one on the invoice. They put my vin on the driver side vertical 1.5" bar right next and behind your left elbow while sitting. They drill 2 small holes and rivet it on.

I wrote up a big detailed post on missouri licensure. Add to that if you can.

Nuker-

 

[ctuinstra]

I just claimed the frame receipt basically stage one on the invoice. They put my vin on the driver side vertical 1.5" bar right next and behind your left elbow while sitting. They drill 2 small holes and rivet it on.

I wrote up a big detailed post on missouri licensure. Add to that if you can.

Nuker-

It's been so long since I read that post I forgot how much was already in there. So that's what I did, just added a few notes to the end. It's pretty complete.