JSATX
Goblin Guru
This weekend - 12 hours - fixed a couple of leaks, bled the brakes (did a quick job to drive it), steering column and wheel. The big thing the weekend was adjusting the suspension. Turns out is is pretty easy. First do the rear - ride height is just the springs. The camber is set by the brackets, the toe in - I set mine to 1/8".
The front - when I was assembling it i was thinking it was going to be a real pain to adjust it - NOT so - it is real easy and quick.
In assembly, the top A arm heim joints are bottomed out except for the top inside front. Lonny wanted a bit more caster so my top inside is 3/8" out from bottom. The top outside is bottomed out. Camber is adjusted by the bottom outside if you do it the way I did it.
On assembly, the bottom inside are out about 3 full turns from bottomed out. The bottom outside are out 1/2 inch or so.
To adjust, measure camber with suspension settled. Jack up car, remove wheels. On the bottom outside heim joint attaching bolt stick a large screwdriver in the front hub to keep the top of the bolt from turning and undo the bolt. Get a 2X4 (and cut ) about 18" long, sorry I did not measure it. Once the bottom bolt is removed on the heim joint just lift the entire hub assembly brake and all and hold it up by putting the 2x4 under it. The you can adjust the outside heim joint. I thing 2 full turns are about 1 degree. Someone else should measure. I put the toe in nearly right when adjusting the camber. I could make an adjustment in 10 minutes. I set my front camber at 1.5 degrees. I will play with it. My toe in is set to 1/8" but I think it needs a bit more.
I had fun testing it this weekend. It is really quick, but I was concentrating on handling first. When I started my car was real "darty". It has come together but I still have some more adjustment work to do.
Ideally the brackets should set the camber. But if you've ever removed the rear struts from the rear knuckles it'll be off. Mine was -2.75° on one side and -1.3° on the other.
