IowaGoblin
Member
NICE! That's a HUGE difference from the other day.
Dan Perry - 4" Extended Street
- Thread starter DanPerryy
- Start date
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
Saturday - Just 5 hours. Most on the tow-bar. It turned out GREAT! Sorry I forgot to get a picture. Also wired up the headlights. My headlights (I got them from banggood.com) have crazy modes. Just two wires but if you apply power once they go on solid, If you drop power and re-apply it quickly the lights FLASH at full brightness. Dropping power again and re-power immediately they go into high beam mode. Dropping power again and re-powering quickly they go into daylight running mode. If I would have known that I would have got something else. I will pull one apart and see if I can disable the modes.
I borrowed a hood from Lonny to get pictures to get mine registered. Not quite ready yet, I need to get turn signals on it and a horn, but I need the pictures for the registration.
Another BTW - when the high beam headlight circuit is activated the low beam power is dropped. I want all my lights on with the high beam. I have wired two lights on each side to low beam and plan to aim them close to car, individually to cover about 50 - 75 yards or so. then the remaining light on each side is the high beam light and I will aim it out at a longer distance.
I replaced the brake pedal position sensor but had the same problem (under full acceleration the throttle butterfly trips out). It turns out you have to calibrate the sensor. It is probably what was wrong in the first place. I will work on this next opportunity and tell how to do it.
I plan on taking the car back to Austin the next time I'm up at Red Oak. I am pretty satisfied with the setup now.
Here are a couple of the pictures. I did not put the side skirts on. Mine will need longer skirts (extended)
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DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
Car is now in Austin. My wife and I drove up to Read Oak yesterday, got the car hooked up to the motorhome, checked out the lights, all worked, also the transmission oil pump worked - I hooked it up the the battery power on the motor home that is on when the motorhome is running.
I had to spend time this morning - until noon cleaning up the mess I made at Lonny's shop and loading my parts into the motorhome. The trip back was uneventful. The car tows awesome. The transmission oil does get hot. I think the little pump I have could be a bit larger to circulate more through the oil cooler. I started the car a couple of times during refueling the MH on the trip and the transmission oil pump put a lot more oil in the cooler and cooled the transmission right down in a hurry.
Now it is home and I can finish it up more leisurely. I weighed it at a truck scales for licensing - 1500 pounds, no body panels, hood, windscreen or fenders.
I put my license plate on it (I ordered a customized plate) but the car is not registered (yet). I need to put the front turn signals (on the side view mirrors) and the horn button on it so I can get the safety check need to license it.
I had to spend time this morning - until noon cleaning up the mess I made at Lonny's shop and loading my parts into the motorhome. The trip back was uneventful. The car tows awesome. The transmission oil does get hot. I think the little pump I have could be a bit larger to circulate more through the oil cooler. I started the car a couple of times during refueling the MH on the trip and the transmission oil pump put a lot more oil in the cooler and cooled the transmission right down in a hurry.
Now it is home and I can finish it up more leisurely. I weighed it at a truck scales for licensing - 1500 pounds, no body panels, hood, windscreen or fenders.
I put my license plate on it (I ordered a customized plate) but the car is not registered (yet). I need to put the front turn signals (on the side view mirrors) and the horn button on it so I can get the safety check need to license it.
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DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
Worked at HOME a couple of hours today!!! I had to hook up the license plate light, and the mirrors - turn signals and running lights. I found these nice little 4 pin waterproof connectors on banggood.com. I use them on the mirrors (opened the mirror up and spliced them inside the mirror body with a tie wrap cinched on the cable in the mirror so it would not bet pulled out if something caught on the wire.
I used the same connector on the license plate light. I can now take the mirrors (or license plate bracket) off by just unplugging the connector.
These connectors are about $1.00 each (both ends) - $10.19 for a 10 pairs
http://www.banggood.com/search/1073265.html
I used the same connector on the license plate light. I can now take the mirrors (or license plate bracket) off by just unplugging the connector.
These connectors are about $1.00 each (both ends) - $10.19 for a 10 pairs
http://www.banggood.com/search/1073265.html
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DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
Here is a picture from under the mirror. I drilled out the DF provided mirror spacer so the connector end would go through.
Working on my headlights, then I need to get the horn button on and then the registration. Just been driving in the neighborhood, private streets no police.
Working on my headlights, then I need to get the horn button on and then the registration. Just been driving in the neighborhood, private streets no police.
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
Got Justin's (JSAX) headlights working for safety inspection, and the horn. Got the car inspected. Just finishing up paper work for registration. I did the safety inspection up in Read Oak - actually Desoto. I did go and talk to an ASE certified master mechanic in Austin. He told me that a person at the the Texas DPS (department of public safety) here in Austin that he - the DPS person was the ONLY person in Austin that was authorized to sign the VTR 852. The DPS person told the master mechanic that the documents published by the State Legislature that were sent to the county assessors instructing them on how to register such vehicles were incorrect. This is somewhat par for Austin (although this person worked for the STATE). Although I don't live in right in Austin, but the ASE shop was close to may work. FYI - Austin is a bit like Berkeley CA. Berkeley citizens actually elected a registered communist party member for mayor a few years back. Here in Austin we have a bunch of socialists that moved from CA to Texas and they think that automobiles should not be allowed on streets and that people should all ride bicycles or walk. So I took may car back up to Red Oak and got it inspected!!!
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
Started on windshield for my extended track easy entry frame. I thought I would like to use the front frame members to attach the windscreen. I bought a lexan (polycarbonate) sheet. I know it will scratch easily but it is also able to be formed to the car. Here is the beginning.
DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
I'm working to get the car ready for registration. I took it to our county for registration, but the supervisor had to call the state DMV. The state first gave me a hard time, but then lightened up. My mistake was I used my own car pictures (just the hood) rather than a completed car. They thought it looked like a dune buggy. That was the biggest issue. Now I need to get the side panels on and possibly fenders and an engine cover. I think that will do it. There was a mention of a windshield wiper, we will see. I showed the guy a picture of Dennis's car and he said that would pass and Dennis has no fenders, no engine cover and no windshield wiper.
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DanPerryy
Well-Known Member
A couple of notes:
1) The hood will come off and on without removing the windshield. This is great because I was going to cut the hood to make a more permanent cowl to attach the windshield. I will need to put some edge trim on it so it won't scratch the hood paint. It also scratches the rear of the top A arm. I will put some rubber hose on that piece where it hits when I take it off and on.
2) When I drive the car, the heat from the radiator comes into the cabin. I am extending the little firewall up to the hood. It is a bit of a pain now because there are so many penetrations of the fire wall. If I were starting over I would bundle the stuff that had to go through the fire wall better. I would also extend the little firewall that come with the kit when I was doing stage 1 (for a street car) to come to the top of the top frame rail, maybe 1/2 " higher so I could attach the top firewall piece. I made my firewall pieces from roof flashing from home depot. It is easy to cut and form.
3. I raised the front of my hood by 3/4". I put a little channel between the hood and the hood bracket that comes with the kit. The primary reason I did this was to give a little more clearance for my AC condensing coil. If now fits easily and has plenty of room for fittings.
My Condenser Coil
Raise Hood
Room for coil and fittings
1) The hood will come off and on without removing the windshield. This is great because I was going to cut the hood to make a more permanent cowl to attach the windshield. I will need to put some edge trim on it so it won't scratch the hood paint. It also scratches the rear of the top A arm. I will put some rubber hose on that piece where it hits when I take it off and on.
2) When I drive the car, the heat from the radiator comes into the cabin. I am extending the little firewall up to the hood. It is a bit of a pain now because there are so many penetrations of the fire wall. If I were starting over I would bundle the stuff that had to go through the fire wall better. I would also extend the little firewall that come with the kit when I was doing stage 1 (for a street car) to come to the top of the top frame rail, maybe 1/2 " higher so I could attach the top firewall piece. I made my firewall pieces from roof flashing from home depot. It is easy to cut and form.
3. I raised the front of my hood by 3/4". I put a little channel between the hood and the hood bracket that comes with the kit. The primary reason I did this was to give a little more clearance for my AC condensing coil. If now fits easily and has plenty of room for fittings.
My Condenser Coil
Raise Hood
Room for coil and fittings
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