Desert Sasqwatch #155 Track (mods) - 08 SS/TC crate LNF F40

[mike_sno]

Tim, I see we have both a roof, a similar seat and a similar environment temperature problem. My intercooler heat exchanger is mounted between the seats in the open space above the rear wall. I noticed that when I drive and the fans are off, they are spinning in a way as the air is pushing from the back to the front of the car. Don't ask me why. I also noticed since I swapped the engine that it is noticeable hotter in the car. How are you planning to deal with that?

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Mike, the reason for the air moving forward from the hot engine bay is the cockpit area is lower air pressure (stagnant air actually) and the air wrapping around the windshield, the seats - with you in them - and a roof panel in some cases when installed will pull the air forward. A simple fix is to add a barrier, such as the DF engine cover or a plexiglass or mesh wind screen (like those used in UTVs) behind the seats. This helps prevent the air from coming forward. Another way is to direct air into the cockpit area with vents - especially effective when directed into the footwell area. This helps, but a lot of air would have to flow into the cockpit to prevent the air moving forward from the engine bay. Try some things to see what works - maybe tape an old bed sheet to the rollbar behind the seats and see what the difference is to determine if the options above are the right thing to purchase or fabricate.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Mike, the reason for the air moving forward from the hot engine bay is the cockpit area is lower air pressure (stagnant air actually) and the air wrapping around the windshield, the seats - with you in them - and a roof panel in some cases when installed will pull the air forward. A simple fix is to add a barrier, such as the DF engine cover or a plexiglass or mesh wind screen (like those used in UTVs) behind the seats. This helps prevent the air from coming forward. Another way is to direct air into the cockpit area with vents - especially effective when directed into the footwell area. This helps, but a lot of air would have to flow into the cockpit to prevent the air moving forward from the engine bay. Try some things to see what works - maybe tape an old bed sheet to the rollbar behind the seats and see what the difference is to determine if the options above are the right thing to purchase or fabricate.

Mesh for a air deflector can be reclaimed from dead trampolines on the cheap! Look for one that the wind tore up, sun baked and weathered is usually a poor donor.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

Update on the dash assembly: got the frame all measured and fabbed up - tweaked to fit correctly. The frame contour follows the underside rear edge of the hood (as close as my tooling will allow for bending the 3/4 inch tube) to try to minimize the gap. It incorporates a center 'waterfall" frame section that attaches to the floor crossbar next to the center tunnel. (My center tunnel is 3 piece - my mod - and can still be removed with the dash frame installed). I added a curve to the top of the 'waterfall' tubes to add a more esthetic look:

I then fabbed up the dash panels from 16 gauge (0.060 inch) steel - won out over fiberglass - and easier for me to work with. I welded threaded plates to the dash frame to bolt the dash panels on and to allow removal to work on guages and wiring:

I added a small 'cubby' at the bottom of the 'waterfall' panel, no room for a glovebox in the dash. The ignition switch will be mounted here for my convenience:

Next up is to cut holes for the steering column and dash gauges. The odd size/shape of the Cobalt gauge panel will be a challenge - measure 200 times, cut once.

BTW, the stacked washers in the dash screws are there because I need to shorten the screws to 3/8 inch to fit without hitting the frame bars.

 

[Rttoys]

You really need a winch on that jeep, because jeep.

 

[ah.b.normal]

Update on the dash assembly: got the frame all measured and fabbed up - tweaked to fit correctly. The frame contour follows the underside rear edge of the hood (as close as my tooling will allow for bending the 3/4 inch tube) to try to minimize the gap. It incorporates a center 'waterfall" frame section that attaches to the floor crossbar next to the center tunnel. (My center tunnel is 3 piece - my mod - and can still be removed with the dash frame installed). I added a curve to the top of the 'waterfall' tubes to add a more esthetic look:
View attachment 46895View attachment 46896

I then fabbed up the dash panels from 16 gauge (0.060 inch) steel - won out over fiberglass - and easier for me to work with. I welded threaded plates to the dash frame to bolt the dash panels on and to allow removal to work on guages and wiring:
View attachment 46897View attachment 46898

I added a small 'cubby' at the bottom of the 'waterfall' panel, no room for a glovebox in the dash. The ignition switch will be mounted here for my convenience:
View attachment 46899

Next up is to cut holes for the steering column and dash gauges. The odd size/shape of the Cobalt gauge panel will be a challenge - measure 200 times, cut once.

BTW, the stacked washers in the dash screws are there because I need to shorten the screws to 3/8 inch to fit without hitting the frame bars.

I hope the floor in that cubby hole isn't level, it should have a drain at the back(facing front) and a floor angled down (back to front), so the contents don't slide rearward every time you hit the gas! Because you will be stomping that go pedal every chance you get.

 

[Desert Sasqwatch]

The 'cubby' is sloped forward, does have a couple drain holes at the low (forward) point, and will be lined with thin carpet material to keep items from rattling around. I still have to figure out the ignition switch configuration and mount that will reside above the 'cubby'. It will also need a cover too - so still not completely done with the dash assembly. More to come on this.

BTW, does anyone have experience with the VATs coil on the ignition switch mounted behind a steel dash panel? Will it still work properly or does the steel panel need to be opened up to expose the coil to the key? Thanks.