Discuss the first stage instructions

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Take a look at one of the earlier posts BAR-AIR's build. Did a similar set of electrical diagrams for a 2008 Cobalt.
 

Swift06

Member
I was able to trace the tan/black and tan wires to the "inside PCM" plug (my nomenclature), so the wires probably go to the pcm from something.

The notes only say what's in the fuse blocks, and I have a '05 SS/SC. There are a few tan wires I'm afraid.
 

RichN

Well-Known Member
I have looked everywhere for the brake booster spacer. I cannot find it nor do I see any imprint on either side of the firewall if it was supposed to be on my 07 LT2 donor. Is it necessary? I was able to install everything OK, I just had to bend the front brake line slightly. Also, I went to Home Depot and bought a M8-1.2 x 30 mm. Phillips Flat-Head Machine Screw. By doing this, I didn't need to use washers to hold the pedal assembly and I could use one of the donor 13mm nuts.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
So I just completed thinning down the main and dash harness. The instructions helped a ton, but the real confusion for me was a few connectors that I did not see addressed, they were neither in the "remove" nor "keep" pictures. And I was hesitant to remove something if I didn't know exactly what it did. I was able to trace a few back to the plug using Bar-Airs drawing, but figured I would post the pictures of a few that were removed here.

------
image.jpeg

These three connectors plugged into a Continental transmitter of some kind on the rear deck under all the carpet and such. Radio equipment, so removed.

image.jpeg

More stereo equipment removed. I can't remember exactly but I think it was the last thing wired to that specific ground so I think I removed it too.


image.jpeg

This is on the dash harness. It plugged into the Climate controls. I don't plan on adding it any time soon but I do hope to one day install AC so I'm keeping it along with the blower motor connection below
image.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Adam

Administrator
Staff member
Also, I went to Home Depot and bought a M8-1.2 x 30 mm. Phillips Flat-Head Machine Screw. By doing this, I didn't need to use washers to hold the pedal assembly and I could use one of the donor 13mm nuts.
I'm sorry you had to do that. I never updated the instructions for how we do this step now. Instead of machining a washer, we machine the head of a bolt to mount the pedal box. Here's a photo of the bolt you should have:

PDL-BLT.jpg


And it should be installed without a washer from the front of the pedal box. You'll use a leftover nut from your donor on the other side.

PDL-BLT in pedal box.jpg
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Just a couple things not currently in first stage instructions for those starting assembly. The rear brake "T" fitting does not use a spacer, The radiator now mounts at the top with two stud/rubber/stud bushings, and a brass nipple is supplied for the fuel tank vent hose.

The fuel filler neck is shortened and a large rubber fuel filler line is included. The baffle is knocked out with a socket.
(Adams pictures)
image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 

RichN

Well-Known Member
Does the baffle need to be knocked out? I've already installed mine. I figured out that the neck needed to be shortened and used the supplied hose and clamps.
Is the nipple used to connect to the small tube on the filler neck?
I have a metric bolt kit so I had bolts available to use to mount the upper radiator. I can replace them with the rubber studs provided which I assume are used to help isolate the radiator and frame from vibration and/or heat.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Adam said the baffle restricts the gas flow making it very slow to fill up. I guess since you already have it installed just try it out. I also thought about simply enlarging the vent hole in the baffle, that should help too.

You'll need a small piece of rubber hose to connect the nipple to the fuel neck vent tube, sorry I don't remember what size I used.

My rubber bushing bottomed out in the radiator mounting threads, so I found a little nut to take up the space.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
You may be able to collapse the baffle enough to drag it out without removing it from the frame. Pull your gas cap off and use a hammer and a screwdriver. Lightly hammer the screwdriver between the baffle and filler neck in various locations around the baffle. This should collapse it enough to become loose.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I haven't dug in deep enough, but do we have a separate line for the clutch master cylinder?
There is a formed steel line similar to the brake lines except with different ends soldered on. One end plugs into the back of the master cylinder and the other goes into the slave cylinder. At least that's my understanding. I have the line but not installed yet. SS may be slightly different
 

RichN

Well-Known Member
I removed the filler neck and knocked out the baffle.
Now I'm almost done splicing the harnesses together. My labels fell off a couple of connectors. Anyone know what these 2 are for? This is the dash side of the harness. I've clipped the connectors to the wires on the harness plug. The black plug goes to a purple wire and the other wire on the plug is solid red to the BCM. The white connector is clipped to a red w/ black trace and brown w/white trace. Thanks in advance. :)

DSCF0018.JPG
 

RichN

Well-Known Member
I have the 2 12v outlet connectors with the shifter plug.
I'm keeping the front half of the center console for the cup holders and outlets to charge phones or gps.
I extended those 2 plugs and will figure out if they're needed after I get the car running.

I have a PZEV fuel pump with the large tray.
I do have NU6 on the trunk label.
I clicked on the Rock Auto link; it brings up 6 different ones for 2010.
If I change it to 2007 2.2 one of the pumps is SPECTRA PREMIUM/COOLING DEPOT SP6015M for $130.
It lists this as an alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 19152750, 19152752, 19168894, 19177326, 19257126, 19257138, 88967307, 88967310, 88967312, SP6618M
Will this work?
 

PeterJohn

New Member
Hi everyone..i am a new user here. It's one thing to be mechanically inclined, but you're also doing a great job of conveying the process for those of us who don't have a lot of prior experience. I feel like studying this prior to starting the project will really help me out.

https://www.7pcb.com/
 
Last edited:

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I'm working on routing the headlight wires up front. Each headlight connection has 5 wires on mine. Do all five need to be extended to the front?
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Also how is the horn activated? I have the plug that plugs into the horn, its bundled with the headlight wires. But I don't have the horn "switch", the only plug I have that when to the steering wheel is the info/return plug.
 

Matt TT

Active Member
From the dash harness of an 08 LT cobalt, does anyone know if these connections are needed? I think the smaller one may just be the ambient light sensor, but I don't know what the larger purple one went to. Thanks!
IMG_0818.JPG
IMG_0819.JPG
 
Top