Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Also make sure you get a new head gasket.
Donor Help - Cobalt SS wont start but cranks - Thoughts?
- Thread starter BaltimoreHokie
- Start date
BaltimoreHokie
Goblin Guru
Thanks. I had thought of some type of test like this but was not positive how I was going to test it. This makes the most sense. Any suggestions on what liquid to use?
I would try something like paint thinner. I took a quick google search and found they too say to use solvent.
https://www.google.com/search?q=checking+valves+for+leaks&rlz=1C1AVFC_enUS746US746&oq=checking+valves+&aqs=chrome.2.0j69i57j0l4.6831j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
https://www.google.com/search?q=checking+valves+for+leaks&rlz=1C1AVFC_enUS746US746&oq=checking+valves+&aqs=chrome.2.0j69i57j0l4.6831j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
I'd use something lightweight like isopropyl alcohol. I used B-12 to clean my valves so that would work too.
If you find one leaking, pop the top of the valve with a rubber mallet a couple of times on the spring side. This will cause the valve lift of the seat and resettle in a better spot.
Valves seat themselves while while the engine is at running temperature and with the cylinder head torqued down. When you remove the head from the block the head will have a slight distortion.
Popping the valves open to let them resettle on their seats will give you a more accurate test.
Valves seat themselves while while the engine is at running temperature and with the cylinder head torqued down. When you remove the head from the block the head will have a slight distortion.
Popping the valves open to let them resettle on their seats will give you a more accurate test.
BaltimoreHokie
Goblin Guru
Guys, Thanks for your input. I am working on ordering all the parts I need and I am in between on head studs. There are no name brands like this one. http://a.co/58FJ5CQ or FelPro ones that are a little over double the price...http://a.co/2NIXF4f
The cheaper ones are Detoti Auto Parts brand. Anyone ever use them?
The cheaper ones are Detoti Auto Parts brand. Anyone ever use them?
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
The service manual doesn't call for replacing the bolts when reinstalling the head. Just says clean with a nylon brush and blow out the bolt holes.
As far as going with studs, I wouldn't worry about it. I'd just stick with bolts.
As far as going with studs, I wouldn't worry about it. I'd just stick with bolts.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
I replaced mine. After I found out what the total torque was on them I would not do it again. I don't believe that they are stretched all that much to the point of needing replacement.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
My reading comprehension is a fail this early. It does call for new bolts. Main head bolts are 22 ft-lbs + 155 degrees and the four front bolts are 26 ft-lbs.
BaltimoreHokie
Goblin Guru
Thanks. Thoughts on the brand for the bolts?
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
I'd go with either the FelPro or OEM.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
If you check after Your done with the 22 ft-lb and the 155 Degree angle It comes out to about 90 to 95 ft-lb I seriously doubt that it stretches those bolts much. I have done heads where the final was up over 150 to 175 ft lb That may stretch the bolts.
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
You know - I was surprised when I found out out the LS engines are the same way. Most of the builders I've talked to are VERY adamant about using new head bolts. Stock type sets are not too expensive, so I guess it's cheap insurance...
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
It's got to be a racket. 
dperkins
Well-Known Member
I would replace those bolts and either get OEMS or ARP head studs, which do have pretty much unlimited uses. The head bolts NEED to be replaced. You can not replace them, but you would risk snapping the bolts, and that isn’t fun. I’ve looked on forums for this and it seems to be surprising common...