Donor Help - Cobalt SS wont start but cranks - Thoughts?

ctuinstra

ctuinstra

Goblin Guru
You could also just measure to make sure you are getting 12vdc on the small (Yellow) terminal when you are trying to crank it. Also make sure you have 12vdc on the large terminal (Red) all the time. When you apply 12dvc to the small terminal (Yellow), you should then have 12vdc on the other larger terminal (Blue, this is the actual starter motor).

IMG_3198.JPG
 
BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Thanks for all the responses, I took a measurement this morning of the battery after unhooking it last night. It was at 12.4 which is pretty low. I think in my case though the battery and the starter / solenoid is bad. I'm going to remove the battery and take it to get tested, and while I'm there pick up an new starter. Hopefully I can get those done this weekend. After this slight rebuild its such a pain to be held up.

ctuinstra -your engine looks so clean.
 
BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
An guide online says that 12.4 is actually 75% charge, which isn't that low. I'm picking up an battery and starter later on today. Hopefully I can return one of the two.
 
BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Guys. I just installed the new starter. I also cleaned the terminals. Turned the key and nothing...

What all should I check. I moved the relays in the fuse box. The post is getting 12 volts on the starter. In a bit I'm going to check the other wire when someone else turns the key. The design of my starter is an plug.
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
The other thing that I can think of--and I don't really see this as being a problem--is the clutch pedal position sensor.

So you try to crank it and you get absolutely nothing, right? All the dash lights come on and everything?
 
BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Yep. A few click from the engine area. But not the starter turning... also did not have the intake manifold or the sensors on but I really don't think that should have mattered just to get it to crank
 
BAR-AIR

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Similar issue with the 2.2 automatic. Ended up being the neutral safety switch in the shifter. I was able to jump the relay and get it to crank. Otherwise it was dead ( powered but no cranking)
 
BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
RichN said:
Is the lock light on the dash? If so, you might need to learn the key.
Click to expand...
No lockout/theft light. I haven't been able to check the plug on the solenoid yet, but I am not sure if that's going to be the issue or not at this point. I am starting to lose hope. Since it was turning over before I am not sure what could have changed.
I'm going to also turn the motor with a breaker bar to make sure the motor isn't seized or something like Brian's document mentioned. (thanks for those documents Brian).

I did however fix the fuel leak with the new o-rings.
 
BAR-AIR

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Can you bypass the starter relay. (I have a set of bypass relay switches) but you can make a simple jumper to bypass the relay. It won't start but it should crank. If it cranks that eliminates everything after the fuse block so it's electrical (switching or the computer). I'm thinking a safety switch (clutch or security)
 
BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Can you give instructions on how to make a bypass? Do you essentially mean remove the crnk relay, then shove a wire in the hole, and connect it to the solenoid?
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
You should be able to pull out the relay and use a jumper wire between pins 30 and 87. This will send 12V directly to your solenoid and should crank the starter. No key crank or clutch pedal required.

When you pull the relay, there will be small numbers on the bottom that correspond to the pins. Just make sure you're on the right pins on the fuse box. The pairs are usually on opposite corners so that way it doesn't matter if you plug the relays in upside down or not.
 
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BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
Briann1177 said:
You should be able to pull out the relay and use a jumper wire between pins 30 and 87. This will send 12V directly to your solenoid and should crank the starter. No key crank or clutch pedal required.

When you pull the relay, there will be small numbers on the bottom that correspond to the pins. Just make sure you're on the right pins on the fuse box. The pairs are usually on opposite corners so that way it doesn't matter if you plug the relays in upside down or not.
Click to expand...
So. It cranks when i do this.

What should my next step be?
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Hmm, that narrows down one half of the circuit. Unfortunately, that was the easier side you eliminated with that test. Sounds like something is preventing the crank signal from reaching that relay. Like Bruce said, it could be your clutch position sensor or wiring somewhere. It could be the anti-theft system too.

To replace the clutch sensor, I'm pretty sure you'll need a scan tool to re-learn the ECM. I don't think it's plug and play. I don't know enough about anti-theft to know what it actually does. I'm not sure if it will disable cranking, fuel, or both.

If you haven't tried swapping the relay out, that would be next easiest thing to do.
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
Reading up on the anti-theft system, it looks like you'd have a security indicator lit up on your dash like RichN mentioned and you'd have a fuel disable message (B1632) as indicated by your check engine light.

If you don't have any of these lights, it could very well be your clutch pedal sensor. You could also do a complete key re-learn using the 30 minute procedure. It's probably pointless, but you never know.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/cutting-and-programming-keys.64/
 
BaltimoreHokie

BaltimoreHokie

Goblin Guru
I
Briann1177 said:
Reading up on the anti-theft system, it looks like you'd have a security indicator lit up on your dash like RichN mentioned and you'd have a fuel disable message (B1632) as indicated by your check engine light.

If you don't have any of these lights, it could very well be your clutch pedal sensor. You could also do a complete key re-learn using the 30 minute procedure. It's probably pointless, but you never know.

http://dfkitcar.com/forum/index.php?threads/cutting-and-programming-keys.64/
Click to expand...
I had my wife turn the key while I jumped the relay. It turned over and started but it seemed like it was not a great idle. I also still have the intake manifold off so I'm sure that's not going to help. Does that help diagnose the at all?
 
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Briann1177

Goblin Guru
You have the intake manifold off? :confused: That's probably part of the problem with the idle. I'm surprised it would even run at all.
 
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