First start no crank help

Motoracer110

Active Member
Looking at this diagram, there are many things that have to be correct before the starter relay will engage. The clutch has to be pushed in or the auto trans has to be in park or neutral. The ignition fuses (10A) have to be good to the clutch or the back up fuse (10A) to the transmission position switch has to be good.

Also I noticed that you have the lock on your dash. If you have a programmed key and the black ring around the key switch, it should be reading the key. I don't know at what point that light goes out, but I thought it read the key immediately. I could be off base here, but if the anti-theft is kicking in, it's not going to allow it to start.


View attachment 9361
Thank you That diagram is a big help. I keep thinking it is an anti theft of some sorts that’s keeping the car from starting. The lock symbol lights up when I turn the key on and stays lit for about 3 seconds then goes away. When I turn the key to start the lock symbol re lights.
9362

Here is what the key looks like
 

DCMoney

Well-Known Member
Did the car run before the tear down?

Check the connector on the ignition that reads the chip?
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
I should know this off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure my security light goes out when I turn the key to start. If it's staying on, then I'm willing to bet it's a issue with the anti theft system. I don't think the fuel pump will kick on if there is a security issue.
 

Motoracer110

Active Member
thank u all I’m going to go this rout and try to bypass the anti theft. I think this is the solution to my problems
 

Briann1177

Well-Known Member
Do the 30 minute relearn procedure. You can't disable the anti theft system in the turbo model like you can with the SCs.

 

ctuinstra

Well-Known Member
thank u all I’m going to go this rout and try to bypass the anti theft. I think this is the solution to my problems
How are you going to do that, disable VATS with HP Tuners? edit. Not on a turbo.

Make sure the small thin black connector is plugged into the black plastic ring around the ignition key switch. That is what reads the key (not the fob).
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
Is this a terminal that I left coming out of the wiring harness?
If so it is your fuel pump ground and other stuff.
Screenshot_20190710-141442.jpg
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
That may be the wire that goes from the alternator to the positive post of your starter.
 

Lonny

Administrator
Staff member
If you have a continuity tester pull the fuel pump plug and check to see if the black wire in the fuel pump connector is grounded.
 

Motoracer110

Active Member
Is this a terminal that I left coming out of the wiring harness?
If so it is your fuel pump ground and other stuff.View attachment 9364
this is coming from the engine wire harness. after everything is plugged into the engine this wire comes out of the engine harness near the starter so just didn't want to leave anything out. there is a wire coming from the alternator already connecting to the top lug of the starter so i think its good to go. That is a great idea on the fuel pump to check the ground wire for the pump itself. I know its not the security feature on the key fob, i did some tests disconnecting it and seeing the lock symbol not go away and locking out the car from even doing anything. I re-plug back in the key reader and the lock symbol goes away. I took off and apart the fuse box above the engine and there definitely is some hot spots on it not recent but from the other owner doing something. I just ordered a new matching fuse box and bcm from ebay just to try. $45 for the bcm and $55 for the fuse box so not too bad just to give it a shot.

Ill bring my meter home from work tomorrow to check that fuel pump. If i do not have a good ground on that pump can i just splice into that black wire and ground it out?
 

Motoracer110

Active Member
9374

9375

9376

9377

Here is how I tested all my grounds and double checked no grounds were missed also still have a lead grounding to the cage
 

Motoracer110

Active Member
Engine runs! Kinda, so after 30+ hrs i cranked down on the fuse box bolts and the dash lit up and my fuel pump came alive! I am still unable to get the car to crank from the key but when I jumper the starter relay the engine starts and runs so now just need to get the engine to start from the key.

I am wondering if maybe there still is a wire under neath the box on the plugs that’s not making contact?
I do notice a relay click when I press the clutch, but no relay when I press the brake. Does the car need to read that the brake is pressed in to get the starter to crank?
9419

That’s the 5 bolts I cranked maybe stripped to get everything to light up and the gas pump to pump
 

Attachments

DCMoney

Well-Known Member
Engine runs! Kinda, so after 30+ hrs i cranked down on the fuse box bolts and the dash lit up and my fuel pump came alive! I am still unable to get the car to crank from the key but when I jumper the starter relay the engine starts and runs so now just need to get the engine to start from the key.

I am wondering if maybe there still is a wire under neath the box on the plugs that’s not making contact?
I do notice a relay click when I press the clutch, but no relay when I press the brake. Does the car need to read that the brake is pressed in to get the starter to crank?
View attachment 9419
That’s the 5 bolts I cranked maybe stripped to get everything to light up and the gas pump to pump
You shouldn't have to strip the heads of the bolts out get it to make contact, is the top of the fuse box fully seated against the fuse block base? What do the contact pins look like? Anything bent, corroded?
 

Motoracer110

Active Member
Case closed! The final thing was switching the brake and clutch pedal plugs and starts up every time. Thank you all for sticking with me on this
 

Motoracer110

Active Member
You shouldn't have to strip the heads of the bolts out get it to make contact, is the top of the fuse box fully seated against the fuse block base? What do the contact pins look like? Anything bent, corroded?
For whatever reason some of the contacts were not making contact when the bolts were tight. Cranking them down did the trick. Everything straight and not corroded. I can’t say enough how happy I am to get past this point. I just need to now get a coolant gauge and check temp
 
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