Floor attachment....

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Has anyone considered welding in a slightly thick are steel floor (and back wall) into their kit. To replace the aluminum floor (wall) that is supplied with the kit. Reason that I’m asking, had to remove my seats while I was installing the emergency brake handle and even with the small amount weight on the floor I started to separate the sealant between the tube and the flooring. Also on entering the car even with the bar stock under the floor there is a lot of flex to the floor in that area (and I’m only 170#s). The more that I look at it the more that I wish I would have.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
I don’t know what the thinnest diamond plate is but with the texture of the diamond plate and a little more rigidity in the floor would be ideal. (The minimal weight gain would definitely be offset by the gains of easier access into the car plus not being concerned about not having to step on the stiffened area of the floor). If my frames were not powder coated I would definitely pursue this further.
 

Andy

Well-Known Member
If you wanted to go super cool you could get carbon fiber sheet and make a floor from that it would look awesome but would be expensive.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
Weld it into place. Problem is you would have to do this before powder coating,painting or even beginning the kit assembly. The only reason I bring this up (hind sight is 20/20) it’s too late for either of the kits we are building. But for some one just receiving or ordering a kit definitely something to think about.
 

Karter2026

Goblin Guru
Weld it into place. Problem is you would have to do this before powder coating,painting or even beginning the kit assembly. The only reason I bring this up (hind sight is 20/20) it’s too late for either of the kits we are building. But for some one just receiving or ordering a kit definitely something to think about.
I like that idea. I have also been thinking about getting line-x or rhino lining sprayed in the foot well. I figure it will add some traction entering and exiting the car. It also wont scratch up with the dirt on your shoes.
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
If you don't have the floor pan installed already, couldn't you just use the existing rivet holes and use screws in their place?
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
If you go the LineX route, you might want to look at their Ultra line. The normal bedliner is laid on relatively thick.
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
You can screw a steel or heavier aluminum floor into the existing rivet holes. Problem is that there is a limited amount of screw surface on the outer edge of the floor. Again the existing flooring works fine. But if I was to do it again I would definitely weld in a floor and possibly the front and rear walls.
F4F09373-0FD1-4B46-ACCC-66A2CB832CBA.jpeg

Here is a photo of Nate’s floor. The mating is actually 3/8” horse stall rubber mating (you can see a piece of scrap on the right side).
 

Briann1177

Goblin Guru
I know there's only so much you can do with nuts and bolts, but maybe it would be easier to go up a size or two in strap width and maybe a dimension up in thickness?
 

PHerder

Well-Known Member
How about a square steel tube in place of the steel strap that goes under the floor board? I haven't looked into sizes and you would lose some ride height... but I was thinking about a 1" square tube?
 

BAR-AIR

Well-Known Member
There are a bunch of ways to stiffen up the bar stock under the floor. But what I’m finding getting into and out of my car it’s just not in a place where I’m putting my weight on the actual floor. So I find myself stepping on the seat and sliding in. Again not a huge issue for the cars already built (annoyance maybe at worst). But if your just starting or planning a build and have access to welding equipment definitely something to think about....

Guys that already have completed car what is your opinion?? Or am I just over killing??
 

askiles

Goblin Guru
I am going to put a piece of 1/8” (or 3/16”) SS plate on the underside, and have it bolt where the floor strap would normally go, and then either rivet it or tap and bolt to to where the holes are drilled now for rivets. I think this will go a long ways in stiffening this area way up.
 
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