Is anyone having to cut down toe link?

Motoracer110

Well-Known Member
I installed the toe link kit today and it looks like when the adjustment bottoms out the hub is still tilted inward. If I cut about 1” of threads off the rod I would be able to get the back wheels straight.

Is anyone else having to do this or is something wrong with my setup?

9688

9689
 

JeffsGoblin

Well-Known Member
The ones from DF go on the front and the ones from the donor go on the back. Is that the way you have it?
 

Motoracer110

Well-Known Member
The ones from DF go on the front and the ones from the donor go on the back. Is that the way you have it?
Yes, maybe I’ll leave it as it is now until I get the tires on and do the final alignment just to be sure, but I don’t see any other way
 

Motoracer110

Well-Known Member
How long is that rear tie rod end?
My rear tie rod end measures, end to end: 5 1/4in.
Front: roughly 3 3/4in.
View attachment 9691
Thank you big help, I figured it out. when i got my donor one of my tie rods were ripped out due to the accident i feel like something was left inside not allowing me to screw on all the way. the side im having trouble still has over 1" of exposed threads and the driver side which looks great only has around 7/8" threads left. im just going to get fresh tie rod ends and i think that will do the trick. looking at your photo you you have your sway bar attached? if so would you be able to take a few photos showing how you attached the sway bar?

thank you
 

Waterdriver

Well-Known Member
I believe I have some photos in my build posts.
For the rear sway bar, I just used the stock mounting location and parts.
I used the SS bar (24mm) for an autocross and it helped a lot with my stock struts and springs in the rear. Although it felt to be a little too stiff.
I've since gone to the local Pick-n-Pull and sourced a base model Cobalt sway bar (18mm) and installed it. The next autocross coming up I'll be able to try it out and see how it handles.

To install the bar with the car assembled is fairly quick.
- Disconnect O2 sensor wire plugs.
- Remove the muffler/exhaust.
- With the endlinks removed from the sway bar, work the bar through the frame on one end until you can maneuver the other end in and through the frame.
- Install bar to subframe bushings and mounts.
- Install endlinks.
- Re-install muffler/exhaust.
- Re-connect O2 sensor wire plugs.

If you need any particular picture of how its mounted, let me know.
 

Lethalcast

Well-Known Member
Did you replace your control arms? The tc fe5 should be aluminum. I know the tc lca wont fit sc because the knuckle is different and the ball joint end is bigger by 1mm. So it's possible the opposite could have happened and you have the stamped steel ones in by accident.
 

Motoracer110

Well-Known Member
Did you replace your control arms? The tc fe5 should be aluminum. I know the tc lca wont fit sc because the knuckle is different and the ball joint end is bigger by 1mm. So it's possible the opposite could have happened and you have the stamped steel ones in by accident.
I did get the black stamped control arms due to my old ones being damaged. I held them together and couldn’t find a difference. I did however fix my problem. About half way down the threads were a little bit rusty causing the block. I added a rust bust spray and worked the threads and was able to get where I needed. Thank u all. Now time to figure out the shifter layout :)
 
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