James's Extended Track Goblin - 06 LS donor

jamesm

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Both the cam bolts were loose. The intake one had backed out several threads and the exhaust was only finger tight.

I'm generally pretty diligent about torquing then verifying bolts but in this case, it looks like I probably missed them or misread the spec on my sheet. I wanna blame a part failure but it's more likely that it was a mistake on my part. :shrug:

The new rockers, cam bolts, and head studs showed up today and the new cam sprockets are supposed to be here tomorrow so hopefully we'll be ready for another attempt at starting it this weekend.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
James, did you check for bent valves? Since the rocker broke, the piston had to hit the valve pretty hard.
 
jamesm

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Ross said:
James, did you check for bent valves? Since the rocker broke, the piston had to hit the valve pretty hard.
Click to expand...
I did pull one valve that had a broken rocker and it is fine. I found another roller bearing down in a recess in the head so I have to pull it entirely apart as I can’t get to it without pulling a couple more valves.
 
jamesm

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Now for the real questions.... How far do I go?

Do I order stock replacements for those 3 and hope for the best? < $75

Do I just order a full set of replacement valves? ~$375

Go ahead and do the valve and spring upgrade while it's apart? ~$750

Get stupid and do a full stage 2 build with valves, springs, and cams? $1500

Part of me wants to just replace the minimum and get it running, but I'm afraid of what else will break later on.......
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
I like to "get to know" my engines first.
So I would do the minimum now, after the engine proves to be healthy, then sink money into it.
Of course if money isn't an issue... then go for it!
 
jamesm

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Got the head back together and plan to install it tonight. Unless something goes sideways, I should have the car back together this week. Dunno when I'll be able to drive it though. I'm still waiting for DF to tell me if they can send me the different transmission cable mount or not. I've been waiting for quite a while so I may end up having to build my own mount :(

IMG_3513.jpeg
 
jamesm

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Got the car out and drove it up and down our side road a few times. The boost gauge is working fine, it just doesn't show anything until the RPMs get higher which is normal I guess. The throttle is pretty touchy. From what I've read here, that's pretty normal. I think I can probably tune some of that out. It doesn't idle all that great but it does idle. I was watching it in VCM Scanner and it keeps adding and pulling timing. I assume the weird idle is due to the larger injectors since the computer doesn't know about them yet.

One other thing I noticed in VCM was there's no value for the injector duty cycle. I know there's not actually a channel for it, it's a math function, but I thought VCM did that calculation for you.

I ordered the AEM wideband sensor that everyone here has so I can start doing some tuning after the initial engine break-in.
 
jamesm

jamesm

Goblin Guru
Gtstorey said:
You have add the math function and then add it to a graph or chart to see it real time.
Click to expand...
The default layout for my version of HP Tuners has that value already on a chart and is attached to a math function, it's just not showing any data. I'll grab a screenshot off that computer tomorrow.
 
Ross

Ross

Goblin Guru
Debugging HP Tuners 101:
Usually, I have non working formula in my math fuction because it has a parameter that is a zero value.
I debug math functions by taking a non working formula, and splitting out the parameters.
Put each parameter into a new math function, then log each math function, so you can see the values of the parameters.
Once you have found all the parameters that have valid data, you can combine them to make a working math function.
 
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