Jim McDonald // Extended Track // '09 HHR SS/TC Automatic

[DCMoney]

Are you planning on running a parking brake? Lonny uses those tabs to hold the cable in place, doesn't mean you have to.

Parking Brakes

I bet the electric actuators car companies are using are lead screw so they are self locking. That way without power it holds. I've used the link below model at work on a few projects. One in the link will put out 400 pounds of force at almost an inch per second in theory. Real world date gave...

dfkitcar.com

 

[Torchandregdoc]

Are you planning on running a parking brake? Lonny uses those tabs to hold the cable in place, doesn't mean you have to.

Parking Brakes

I bet the electric actuators car companies are using are lead screw so they are self locking. That way without power it holds. I've used the link below model at work on a few projects. One in the link will put out 400 pounds of force at almost an inch per second in theory. Real world date gave...

dfkitcar.com

Thanks for the research. Glad I didn't cut them off last night. I believe I will need an emergency brake to pass the dmv inspection here in NV, plus I think it will be helpfull in building boost, with as light as the Goblin is on the front axle.

 

[Torchandregdoc]

Does anyone know what the purpose is for this? I get the fuel pressure port and I've seen it called a dampener, but why? It's a liquid?

 

[Ark :D]

Should be a fuel pressure regulator I think?

 

[Torchandregdoc]

No moving parts. Im nearly positive there's nothing in there.

 

[Torchandregdoc]

Stripped down and ready to do the final cleaning before paint.

 

[TravMac]

No moving parts. Im nearly positive there's nothing in there. View attachment 10574

That is a dampener to avoid things like fluid hammering. Think of water hammering pipes in a house. Just a noise and vibration sort of thing to handle sudden changes in fuel flow. I'm pretty certain both the fuel filter and pump handle pressure regulation, but there may be more parts to it on these cars.

 

[Brian74]

That is a dampener to avoid things like fluid hammering. Think of water hammering pipes in a house. Just a noise and vibration sort of thing to handle sudden changes in fuel flow. I'm pretty certain both the fuel filter and pump handle pressure regulation, but there may be more parts to it on these cars.

I’ve been looking forward to seeing a build like this!

As far as that dampener; I ordered that part (genuine GM) for my crate engine and it came as just a metal line with no dampener. I guess they no longer feel they’re necessary?

 

[Torchandregdoc]

Thanks. Down the road i want to put on a manifold that puts charge air coming in from the top like saab on the lsj, buy that fuel inlet would be in the way.

 

[Torchandregdoc]

Making a little progress. Found why there was so much timing chain noise.

Hoping thats the reason for the cam sensor code. I'm going to do the phasers, tensioner, and actuators at the same time.

 

[Torchandregdoc]

I've been researching manifold options for the sake of simplifying charge plumbing. I have another thread that addresses LNF Intake Manifolds. I've learned a bunch about the crank case ventilation system, but it has exposed my lack of knowledge when it comes to vacuum.

My memory, and now a hose on the shelf that says "to manifold" on one end and "brake booster" on the other end, says that booster pulls vacuum from the manifold. I even looked at AllData to verify this.

How is the booster getting vacuum from a pressurized port?

 

[SliderR1]

You're only under pressure while you are accelerating. When the engine isn't under a load, you have vacuum.

 

[Ross]

Making a little progress. Found why there was so much timing chain noise.
...
Hoping thats the reason for the cam sensor code. I'm going to do the phasers, tensioner, and actuators at the same time.

You probably want to add the Dorman 917-954 to your upgrades.
Looks like you caught the issue before catastrophic failure.

 

[Torchandregdoc]

This is what I bought. I still need the bolt you're talking about, right?

I'm really hoping to do my mockup with this motor, make sure it runs good with no engine codes, sell it, and build with a new motor, so I dont want to spend more than i need to. However, i dont want to mess someone over, so I'd like to do the job right. I can't imagine doing this job with the motor still in an HHR.

 

[Torchandregdoc]

You're only under pressure while you are accelerating. When the engine isn't under a load, you have vacuum.

Thats how it looked like it worked to me, I just thought that it seams weird that when you're running up a grade, you have no power brakes until you pull your foot off if the throttle. I guess it works fine. The must be a check valve in the brake booster. 15psi of boost against that huge diaphragm would make it impossible to push the brakes. PiR2 says it should be around 225 lbs of resistance.

 

[Ross]

This is what I bought. I still need the bolt you're talking about, right? View attachment 10755

I'm really hoping to do my mockup with this motor, make sure it runs good with no engine codes, sell it, and build with a new motor, so I dont want to spend more than i need to. However, i dont want to mess someone over, so I'd like to do the job right. I can't imagine doing this job with the motor still in an HHR.

I would buy the extra bolt, as I don't see it in your picture.
I don't have an LNF engine to look at, but usually an engine will get vacuum from the intake before the turbo, so it always has vacuum.

 

[SliderR1]

Thats how it looked like it worked to me, I just thought that it seams weird that when you're running up a grade, you have no power brakes until you pull your foot off if the throttle. I guess it works fine. The must be a check valve in the brake booster. 15psi of boost against that huge diaphragm would make it impossible to push the brakes. PiR2 says it should be around 225 lbs of resistance.

You are correct. There is a check valve and enough 'storage' in the plumbing for about 1 assisted brake push after engine vacuum is removed. Once you get up an running and have a boost gauge to watch - you'll see how it works.

 

[OptimizePrime]

@Torchandregdoc - Ross is talking about this and it's not included in your kit ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1151WH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). It replaces the shoulder 8.9 bolt that goes into the upper black guide hole on the intake side. It looks like your guide may have broke and they just took it out? It's worth the $15 as the stock shoulder bolt tends to break the guide and things get weird from there.

I would be extremely careful torquing the shouldered 8.9 bolt down to 89 in/lbs. Myself and others have broken bolts off into the block and had to redrill / tap. It looks like you may have one broken off too on the right side of balance shaft upper guide. There are bolts without the shoulders that you could replace with 10.9 (Yellow) but you should reuse the shoulder bolts (with threadlock)

Good luck getting 100 degrees on the TTY cam bolts! I wasn't brave enough but I got close. You could also replace the water pump while you're here (I picked mine up for $35, they aren't typically known to fail though - just cheap insurance).

Green = Dorman 917-954
Red = 11588522 BOLT 8.900 (can be reused)
Yellow = 10.9 M6x1x30mm from Lowes / HD

 

[Torchandregdoc]

@Torchandregdoc - Ross is talking about this and it's not included in your kit ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1151WH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). It replaces the shoulder 8.9 bolt that goes into the upper black guide hole on the intake side. It looks like your guide may have broke and they just took it out? It's worth the $15 as the stock shoulder bolt tends to break the guide and things get weird from there.

I would be extremely careful torquing the shouldered 8.9 bolt down to 89 in/lbs. Myself and others have broken bolts off into the block and had to redrill / tap. It looks like you may have one broken off too on the right side of balance shaft upper guide. There are bolts without the shoulders that you could replace with 10.9 (Yellow) but you should reuse the shoulder bolts (with threadlock)

Good luck getting 100 degrees on the TTY cam bolts! I wasn't brave enough but I got close. You could also replace the water pump while you're here (I picked mine up for $35, they aren't typically known to fail though - just cheap insurance).

Green = Dorman 917-954
Red = 11588522 BOLT 8.900 (can be reused)
Yellow = 10.9 M6x1x30mm from Lowes / HD

View attachment 10776

Dorman 917-954 will be here tomorrow. The guide was there, it was just in 4 pieces and laying in the bottom of the block.

 

[Ark :D]

You narrowly avoided the fate of my first donor's engine. It was painful to see rockers broken off and laying all over the place in the engine. I'm happy yours survived.

Anyone reading this that has not done it, install a new-style tensioner and a Dorman bolt.