JS City Goblin - 2010 LS

JSATX

Goblin Guru
So I've been reading a lot about NOS installations. Apparently it's cool to have a stealth/sleeper setup where bottles and lines are well hidden.

Is there such a thing as a sleeper goblin? Because this isn't it.
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It's a ton of fun, I don't really ever see myself exceeding the 55shot.

I've done a few launches while carefully watching the AFR. As soon as I floor it it drops to about 11.5 just with the ecu, no spray. Then when I spray it I've seen it rise to as much as about 13.5 but no higher. Might go one bigger on the fuel jet just to keep it right at 13.

Honestly it is a very nice bump but not quite the traction ruining slam that some people make it out to be. The engine doesn't even sound different, just revs much faster.
 

PG5

Well-Known Member
Huh, so when you push the NOS button you don't get the blue flames from the rear and then everything becomes all elongated and blurry? Something must be wrong. :D
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Huh, so when you push the NOS button you don't get the blue flames from the rear and then everything becomes all elongated and blurry? Something must be wrong. :D


I'm totally suing this studio for false advertising.
 

TCR801

Member
Help me with some ricer math. With your free flowing intake and exhaust your at 165-180hp+ 55hp nitrous = 230-250 hp..... on the hoof weight with you in it = 1550lbs? What how many pounds per horsepower would you be content with?
Never going over the 55 hit is what made me wonder. Yes this is a question full of holes(content??? NEVER)

On a side note, 13.5 afr is to lean for blue flame and blurred vision.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Help me with some ricer math. With your free flowing intake and exhaust your at 165-180hp+ 55hp nitrous = 230-250 hp..... on the hoof weight with you in it = 1550lbs? What how many pounds per horsepower would you be content with?
Never going over the 55 hit is what made me wonder. Yes this is a question full of holes(content??? NEVER)

On a side note, 13.5 afr is to lean for blue flame and blurred vision.
My ultimate goal is a sub 3 second 0-60. I don't care if it's 2.999, since day one breaking 3 seconds has been the goal. If it takes 275 or 375hp I'll build til I have that.

I have no plans to go over 55 shot. I do have plans to turbo. And yes they will be used together, I just can't afford forged rods and pistons right now.

My thought process is the turbo will take me to 260hp. Which is the most you'd ever need in any non dragstrip application and should still be totally reliable. The 55shot will then push me a hair over the magical 300hp (5lb/hp) mark for the rare occasion when that last little bit Is needed.

And 13.1 is a little lean for MAXIMIMPOWERBRAH but still under the danger zone so I'm fine with that for now.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Not a whole lot to report...I pulled my fuel pump out because it's still sticking at full tank. Couldn't see anything obviously wrong so bent the sending level arm in a little more and re installed.

It worked great!!.....Until I filled up. Its stuck at full, again. So something is causing the arm to be "pinched" in the max upright position. Ill pull it out this weekend and bend on it a little more. Just using the odo as a fuel gauge right now. Its not difficult to remove obviously, its just everytime I mess with it gas gets spilled and paint gets screwed.

Ordered the fenders so I'm excited about that! Even though I've never taken it out in any sort of rainy weather I still manage to find a puddle or someone's sprinklers running off into the road and get a light shower when I run through it.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
I noticed last week that my shifter had become mushy and not nearly as nice as it was when I first started driving it. I kept thinking it was something binding up in the rear. But it turns out I somehow broke the pin that goes through the horizontal throw lever so it wasn't moving the transmission gear arms like it should. Guess I'll print a replacement this week and that should last longer as I'll probably slide a bolt through the center.
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It's hard to tell but the "pin" should stick out of the housing where the white lever is. There's nothing there which allows that white arm to flop around instead of moving the cable.
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
And it's not a simple cylinder unfortunately. I just drew up a quick prototype I'm going to print tonight.
Screen Shot 2017-05-29 at 10.38.41 PM.png
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Well I must have been driving this thing with a broken shift pin for awhile, because it feels like a totally different transmission when I shift now! The pin fit absolutely perfectly. I greased it up and then pushed it in with a C-clamp and ran a bolt through the center. All the slack I felt before is gone!

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Also installed the rear sway bar. Gotta admit I love it!
Totally reduces the tendency to understear when entering and exiting a corner. Also seemed to steady the steering when going over bumps. It does make the car a little darty at high speeds, but the additional turning grip at anything under 60 more than make up for that. I really don't see myself going back and consider it a definite handling upgrade.

That being said I'd still recommended trying it both ways as I'd like to hear other oppinions with and without it.
 

Silverback

Well-Known Member
...It is definitely more responsive with the bar installed. I've been having a significant amount of understeer when pushing it and am hoping it reduces that some...
Glad to read you're getting understeer without the bar. What size bar are you trying? With three and maybe four sizes of stock bars available, one should be able to dial-in over/understeer to their preference without using a front swaybar.

From cobaltss.com: (thanks to Tony for the link)
FE1 suspension
19-mm front stabilizer bar

FE3 suspension
22-mm front and rear stabilizer bars

FE5 suspension - 2005-07 years
24-mm front stabilizer bar

FE5 suspension - 2008? and up years (measured on my 2010 SS/TC)
25-mm front stabilizer bar​
 
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canyon bolieu

Well-Known Member
Started by installing the radiator tubes in the frame. It really is a very tight fit. Tried the paint roller method but just couldn't get enough tire wet into the frame, and ended up having the pull rope break off several times. Tried a slightly different method, cut a shop towl into about a 7" square and then folded it around a nut in the middle so I could tie a rope and have a swab type setup. Then completely soaked the rag in tire wet. Blew the rope though the frame and attached it to a drill on the other side. Spun the rope until it was very tight and started spinning the towl swab and slowly pulled it through the frame rails with drill. Hoses went in pretty quickly after that.

Installed brake lines, radiator, brake booster, pedals, clutch MC, instrument gauge, steering rack and motor, and fuel tank/filler neck. Had planned on installing the engine but I took it off the transmission to pressure wash everything and found out my clutch was at the wear limit indicators so unfortunately had to stop early and order parts. View attachment 520

Does your clutch pedal rub on your steering shaft?
 

Attachments

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Well yesterday was EPIC! I went to a local race track to try and dial in the suspension and test how the rear sway bar changed things.

Right before I was about to head out for the warm up session the owner of the race track and former Ferrari LeMans team driver came out and asked if I wanted any help learning the circuit. I was super happy to get any help and asked if he'd drive so I didn't embarrass myself.
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We did four or five laps as he showed me the braking zones and proper cornering lines, it was awesome.

After the warmup we got out and started walking around the car, he said he really liked it but it could use some basic fine tuning. We talked for awhile and here are his recommendations:

1) The front shocks were too tight and the nose could be a little lower, both easily accomplished by lowering the spring perch.

2) not near enough camber in the front wheels, after a few laps it's obvious the outside edge of the front tires is getting chewed to shreds. Now I knew this as I asked for pretty neutral settings for road use/less wear. If you plan to track your car you should absolutely stick to Adams camber specs of approx -3° (if I remember correctly mine are -1°)
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3) the sway bar is too stiff and too long. We talked about how I hadn't been using it but the understeer was too much so I put it on. He said it should not be pre-loaded when sitting on the ground, meaning the vertical rod which bolts to the strut tower should not be taunt when stopped on level ground. Basically need adjustable rods and a smaller bar for the perfect setup.

4) the steering wheel is too high. I believe different brackets are in the plans to drop the wheel, I might just use spacers and longer bolts to do the same thing.

5) the frame support bar under the gas pedal makes it really difficult to heel-toe and I should make a bolt on brake pedal that sticks out closer to the gas pedal.


Frankly this is awesome. Because everything except #5 is easily adjustable and expected to need tweaking. The chassis was super rigid. The acceleration and braking were great. The steering was quick and precise. I could enter corners faster than anyone there and carry more speed through the exit.

There were Nissan GTRs, track prepped Mustang GTs, Z06 corvettes and STi's.

The fastest time of the day was a 36.1....my first time ever on a track and I ran 37.5. Now sure 1.4 seconds is an eon in racing times. But consider the average time there was closer to 39 so I'm totally psyched with that.
 

Silverback

Well-Known Member
... sway bar is too stiff and too long. We talked about how I hadn't been using it but the understeer was too much so I put it on. He said it should not be pre-loaded when sitting on the ground, meaning the vertical rod which bolts to the strut tower should not be taunt when stopped on level ground. Basically need adjustable rods and a smaller bar for the perfect setup...
Great info! What diameter bar were you running?
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Great info! What diameter bar were you running?
The stock 2010 base sway bar...I assume the measurements you posted refer to the diameter of the bar? Because mines 19mm. Which isn't great if I'm already running the smallest one.
 
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