JS City Goblin - 2010 LS
- Thread starter JSATX
- Start date
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Apparently the RPO code FY1 indicates the 3.63 trim as well.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
And as far as how I liked it, well I'm really not sure. I couldn't figure out where to shift, I ended up running the entire track except the straight in second. It seemed to work well, it was timed to almost exactly when the rev limiter kicked in I needed to be slowing down for the next corner. I'm sure I could have gained .5 second just switching to third more but I was too worried about hitting a wall to really get that last second out of my time.
I'm sure someone with more experience could have easily set the fastest time of the day.
Silverback
Well-Known Member
Did your build sticker indicate you had the FE1 soft suspension? That would be the 19mm. On my Seven, we preloaded the anti-sway bar to adjust the wheel weights with the driver in position. Tried to keep overall left/right balanced with RF/LR and LF/RR. Sandbag the driver's seat with your weight before balancing.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Ah interesting. Yes I have FE1 suspension.
SliderR1
Well-Known Member
Justin - how did this work with the adapter and the QD coupler? Any issues? Which adapter and wheel did you use?
JSATX
Goblin Guru
DF supplies a part which adapts the Cobalt steering shaft to the 3bolt hole pattern kart steering wheel.
I then used a 3-to-6 steering wheel adapter on eBay:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Car-0-5-1-2-Hub-for-6-Hole-Steering-Wheel-to-fit-Grant-APC-3-Hole-Adapter-/292114672457?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150519202348%26meid%3D49e340a994ee480ca24836ee92f2ee95%26pid%3D100408%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D25%26sd%3D262411806118&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460
All of the NRG quick releases use a standard 6 bolt pattern on both sides of the quick release. You won't need the vehicle specific adapter. I recommend the NRG quick release it has a very positive lockup and is well made.
Finally I bolted an Assault D wheel to the NRG QR just because I thought it looked really cool. It's a little small though.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/UTV-Parts-and-Accessories/Assault-Industries-D-Shape-Leather-Steering-Wheel-with-Red-Stitches-100005SW0203.aspx?t_c=95&t_s=605&t_pt=101825&t_pn=ASI100005SW0203&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping&emlprox=out&ppcfon=1&gp=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scplpASI100005SW0203&sc_intid=ASI100005SW0203&gclid=CNOcu-XaytQCFQcaaQod2ywDfg
Which NRG adapater did you use? They make several, including a 'thin' (very short) one. I noticed earlier in your log you mentioned shortening the tubing to accomodate the adapter, did you do that?
JSATX
Goblin Guru
This is the actual one I purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXWIET8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did not shorten it I decided I liked the length. I will however be lowering it somehow it's currently up too high.
I was thinking about that myself. I'm hoping to sit in one of these by visiting the Goblin's den down in Texas soon, it'll help give me a feel for the controls. I was pondering coming up with an adjustable steering column--such as allowing it to drop down and lock into place X" below its normal spot, to provide different positions for the wheel. This is all armchair thinking since I can only go by internet pics for now.
Andy
Well-Known Member
JS what was the offset on your rims? i was looking at the hypergrams in a 17x8 for the rear and they have a 45mm offset i looked up the advanti rims and they appear to come in 2 offset i was trying to determine if the hypergrams will fit. It looked like your advanti just fit. I wanted to avoid any spacers.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Mine fit great. Fenders will be a problem but I like my wheel size a lot. It was 17x8x45 and 15x7x35
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Been thinking a lot about boost lately. Haven't done much because I ran into a lot of turbo fitment problems. But I think I have a good idea how to route stuff now. I will be patterning my setup based on this atom:
Sure it's not the ideal setup with all that exhaust heat there. But since everything is so open it should be fine. I monitor IAT° anyway if they are a problem I'll add heat sheilding and some ducts from the side which should further reduce temps.
I found an intercooler that fits nicely between the rear bars. I plan to flip the ZZP manifold upside down and mount the turbo directly to it. Should hold it above the intercooler and provide a fairly direct shot into the top right Intercooler intake. Now to start mocking up the pipe....
Sure it's not the ideal setup with all that exhaust heat there. But since everything is so open it should be fine. I monitor IAT° anyway if they are a problem I'll add heat sheilding and some ducts from the side which should further reduce temps.
I found an intercooler that fits nicely between the rear bars. I plan to flip the ZZP manifold upside down and mount the turbo directly to it. Should hold it above the intercooler and provide a fairly direct shot into the top right Intercooler intake. Now to start mocking up the pipe....
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I don't know if this will help or not.
What's the problem? You want 0" total toe or a tiny bit of toe in...and 0 to -3° camber. Or did Adam say -5° honestly I can't remember.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Most likely. Made such a huge difference for me. Also wheel balance plays a big part in such a light car. Thankfully very little weight was required to get mine perfectly in balance, make sure they use a road force balancer too.