k.rollin
Goblin Guru
Based on his donor, I think that he has a LAP
JS City Goblin - 2010 LS
- Thread starter JSATX
- Start date
canyon bolieu
Well-Known Member
From what I know on this issue in both my lsj's the maf sensor needs to have 2" of straight away on each side to read correctly that could be one issue.
If your 02 sensor is out or not working correctly you will go into limp mode only under a high rpm pull.
Your map sensor could also cause limp mode from not working or being dirty.
You should read your codes if you have any also may need to tune/tweak a few things. If you take it to a shop and put it on a dyno do a pull and see what she does
If your 02 sensor is out or not working correctly you will go into limp mode only under a high rpm pull.
Your map sensor could also cause limp mode from not working or being dirty.
You should read your codes if you have any also may need to tune/tweak a few things. If you take it to a shop and put it on a dyno do a pull and see what she does
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I’ve been doing a bunch of miscellaneous touch ups while my car is in legal limbo. Installing an intercooler and additional bracing for a custom rear wing.
Seeing all these pictures of pretty engines really makes me want to pull mine and paint it. I did paint the valve cover. Used VHT caliper paint and baked it for 3 hours. I’m pretty happy with it.
Seeing all these pictures of pretty engines really makes me want to pull mine and paint it. I did paint the valve cover. Used VHT caliper paint and baked it for 3 hours. I’m pretty happy with it.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I guess as much as you’re willing to subject it to. My goal is 350-400. The turbo is good to 450.
Oh you’ll need these too...
JSATX
Goblin Guru
Finished mounting the intercooler. I’ll paint it this weekend to match the frame. It’s not very pretty, I’ll proabbly end up redoing it but it works perfectly fine for now. The turbo is up above it. I’ll make a little heat shield and some side scoops to bring air in from the wheel area.
TheNuker
Goblin Guru
That is not too bad, I'm thinking I'm going to have to ditch the front heat exchanger before next year. I just don't think that you can run one big enough in the front. I was also considering some side scoops to shoot air into a rear mount like you have done.
I'm a bit worried about that exhaust heat being literally right next to that though.
Nuker-
I'm a bit worried about that exhaust heat being literally right next to that though.
Nuker-
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Are you having intake air temp issues with it up front?
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I’m really not worried about the heat. Im building a box that directs air in from the right side. The exhaust from the turbo will exit the left side. I will wrap the pipe and worst case I just get a turbo blanket as well.
In a normal car this would obviously be a horrible idea. But the exhaust and turbo run so much cooler than when in a normal car so I’m really not worried about it. It’s very difficult to tell from the picture but there’s almost 10” between exhaust manifold and the top edge of the intercooler
ctuinstra
Goblin Guru
I had the same question. Seeing the size of the OEM compared to the supplied, it's hard to believe that it could cool much at all. Granted the engine isn't under as much load but I've upped the pressure with a smaller pulley and this is going to create higher IAT. I may just have to keep an eye on it to see for sure. I bought a gauge for it.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Has anyone looked into the idea of side mounting the heat exchangers on the Goblin. Sidepods?
Ariel Atom uses them, along with other types of race vehicles. Along with a screen mounted in front of the heat exchangers would be a good idea due to rocks and other debris being thrown up from the front tires. Don't want to spring a leak.
This will keep the heat exchangers in cool air and away from exhaust systems radiant heat.
This setup would look cleaner, move the weight added forward, less bulky and easier to plumb if using a air-to-water intercooler configuration. Plus it would keep the distance from the compressor outlet of the turbo to the throttle plate as short as possible, keeping turbo lag at a minimum.
I'm contemplating using this setup for my SC build. It will add the cost of a second heat exchanger and fan. Plus fabrication time.
It would double cooling and capacity at the cost of added weight.
There's always a trade off.
Ariel Atom uses them, along with other types of race vehicles. Along with a screen mounted in front of the heat exchangers would be a good idea due to rocks and other debris being thrown up from the front tires. Don't want to spring a leak.
This will keep the heat exchangers in cool air and away from exhaust systems radiant heat.
This setup would look cleaner, move the weight added forward, less bulky and easier to plumb if using a air-to-water intercooler configuration. Plus it would keep the distance from the compressor outlet of the turbo to the throttle plate as short as possible, keeping turbo lag at a minimum.
I'm contemplating using this setup for my SC build. It will add the cost of a second heat exchanger and fan. Plus fabrication time.
It would double cooling and capacity at the cost of added weight.
There's always a trade off.
JSATX
Goblin Guru
I thought about that a lot and even bought side intercoolers.
The additional plumbing and body work ultimately made me go the route I did.
But also this is a multi year project for me. It’ll never be done. I will not be surprised if in 10 years it has a fully enclosed body.
BaltimoreHokie
Goblin Guru
What was the pro of going with a base model and turboing it rather then just using an LNF to start?
JSATX
Goblin Guru
A couple reasons:
the lnf donor was 5-6x as expensive ($500 vs 3000) I knew I could take the difference and buy my own turbo parts for the same amount of money.
I would have replaced the rods, pistons, and turbo anyway, spending even more in the end.
the Goblin kit for turbo is also $2k more expensive. I do not like direct injection and I do not like water cooled intercoolers in turbo applications.
the lnf donor was 5-6x as expensive ($500 vs 3000) I knew I could take the difference and buy my own turbo parts for the same amount of money.
I would have replaced the rods, pistons, and turbo anyway, spending even more in the end.
the Goblin kit for turbo is also $2k more expensive. I do not like direct injection and I do not like water cooled intercoolers in turbo applications.
BaltimoreHokie
Goblin Guru
Is the gearbox in both pretty comparable? I like the idea, and most people on here have done some work to the engine when they are building it. So, upgrading a base model as you've done isn't a bad idea.