Lark's Track Goblin No. 40 - 2008 LT ***REGISTERED***

[JeffsGoblin]

Separating the rails from the seats is a pain! I went this way as well, copying ctuinstra. I drilled out the fixed rivets instead of grinder. Passenger rails are slightly different than driver rails. If you look at the top on the passenger rail, there are two bolts in the middle of each rail you don't have to grind off, just unscrew. Unfortunately the driver side only has one set instead of two. I obtained another passenger seat so I could use the extra screw holes for the mounting plate.

 

[k.rollin]

The grinder wasn't my first choice, but I couldn't swing the hammer to finish removing the heads without bashing the mounts for a few of the rivets, and it became a necessity after breaking the drill I used for the pilot holes. I drilled the centers of the rivets to 5/16" then cut the heads off with the chisel for most of them.

 

[k.rollin]

The task of separating the brackets/rails from the stock seats was easier tonight because I stopped being an idiot about the process and removed the trim pieces and the seat base before starting with the drill. Doing so improved access with the hammer and chisel, eliminating the need for the grinder and reducing the number of hammer strikes to the hand.

 

[BaltimoreHokie]

What seats are you planning on using? Are you just going to retro fit these brackets onto the new seats?

 

[k.rollin]

I'm installing Kirkey 47500s. Probably going to fit side mount brackets between the stock rails and the seats. If the width doesn't accommodate that solution, I'll probably join the stock parts with a plate and fit the side mounts to that. I don't know for sure if that's the solution, but I'll figure it out once I get the chassis back and a seat delivered.

 

[KJP]

Spent some time in the garage after dinner tonight with the drill, angle grinder, hammer, and cold chisel. Managed to get the seat mounting brackets/rails off of the passenger seat. Driver's seat tomorrow. I figured this might be an easier solution than fabricating fixed mounts that would use the as built mounting locations.

I was planning on doing this as well so any tips or tricks are appreciated.

 

[k.rollin]

I was planning on doing this as well so any tips or tricks are appreciated.

Start by removing the plastic trim pieces and unbolting the upholstered portion of the seat base from the assembly (4 bolts, 10mm hex head). This will improve access to and visibility of all the offending rivets and bolts (bolts have 13mm hex heads).

Others who have done this may have used different methods, but I did the job by center punching the rivets, progressively drilling them up to 5/16", and cutting the heads off with a hammer and cold chisel. The grinder only came out because I did the first seat the stupid way and broke my pilot drill.

 

[k.rollin]

Still no chassis, because commercial expedite work orders get processed before $500 one-offs paid in cash. Not complaining though, it's a deal compared to some of the numbers I've seen around here.

In the meantime, I got a set of polyurethane transaxle mount inserts. They're not installed yet on account of wanting to paint the mounts, but I did remove the rubber inserts tonight after work. I cut the first one out with a reciprocating saw based on what I had seen in a YouTube video, and I don't recommend it. It stinks and is no faster than distorting the plastic cup that surrounds the rubber.

The offending rubber bits

The empty mounts

New creamy filling

 

[ctuinstra]

Sorry, I wish I would have posted something earlier about removing the sliders. I basically did the same thing you did at the end, remove the seat and trim pieces and drill out the rivets. A sharp bit and a little cutting oil made fast work of the rivets. Released them with the cold chisel also.

I wish I knew that you needed the trans mounts. I ended up going with the solid mounts and didn't use my original mounts. This is after I paid to have them professionally cleaned, they look like new.

 

[JeffsGoblin]

I'm confused. Why mess with this if DF is providing engine mounts, which takes the place of the transmission mounts you worked on? Are these better?

 

[ctuinstra]

I'm confused. Why mess with this if DF is providing engine mounts, which takes the place of the transmission mounts you worked on? Are these better?

The mounts DF has available are options and not included in a kit. Since the engine is mounted to the frame solid and the subframe mounts are rubber, this can put additional stress on the frame mounts (since the rubber mounts give). So the idea is to mount everything solid so there is no flex. Lower HP builds may nor require this however the higher HP builds should consider using solid mounts.

 

[k.rollin]

I considered requesting the solid mounts be added to the second stage of my kit, but decided that since my main focus was to get the base NA configuration going first for benchmarking against the planned addition turbo, that $30 for polyurethane inserts that I could have now wasn't a bad idea. I'd like to get my second stage order in process, but the truth is that I still have most of the regular stage one assembly, a good deal of painting, and correctly reconnecting the wires of my X101 engine to body harness connector to finish before being totally ready.

 

[Karter2026]

I asked about the solid mounts. Adam told me that they did not have them available yet for the base model manual trans models. Looks like my welder son in law has a job coming up.

 

[KJP]

If your frame was the coated and wrapped up one at DF waiting for pick up then I am jealous because it looked great

 

[k.rollin]

If your frame was the coated and wrapped up one at DF waiting for pick up then I am jealous because it looked great

Wasn't mine; mine is at Superior Powder Coating in Arlington, WA.

 

[KJP]

Got it I had misread the earlier post but 500 for getting it powder coated is an insane deal!

 

[k.rollin]

It took six weeks, but it also came in under budget at $350 for the chassis, front control arms, tunnel cover, and subframe. The color is Cardinal GR-02, 80% gloss steel gray pearl.

 

[JSATX]

That looks awesome!! Hell of a good price too

 

[KJP]

350!
Looks great and that is an awesome price.

 

[Waterdriver]

It took six weeks, but it also came in under budget at $350 for the chassis, front control arms, tunnel cover, and subframe. The color is Cardinal GR-02, 80% gloss steel gray pearl.

Nice color, better than I had imaged! Can't wait to see it person.