Lark's Track Goblin No. 40 - 2008 LT ***REGISTERED***
- Thread starter k.rollin
- Start date
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
It's too cold for painting out in the garage, which is why I brought the rotors and calipers inside the house. House was 82 degrees on account of the wood stove. Also, if this appearance is typical for brush application, then I will hold off on any more painting until the weather warms up and I get a higher capacity spray setup than the airbrush I use for my firearm projects.
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
At least that's something I can grab off the shelf there. I ordered brake pads last night and it took the better part of an hour to do it because of all the questions.
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
Today I chucked the steering shaft in the lathe to remove .035" from the diameter above the turn signal cam.
So that I could fit this splined spud over the steering shaft.
And once I weld the spud to the shaft, I'll have a smaller diameter (compared to NRG) quick release that only cost $60 and can be manipulated with one hand.
So that I could fit this splined spud over the steering shaft.
And once I weld the spud to the shaft, I'll have a smaller diameter (compared to NRG) quick release that only cost $60 and can be manipulated with one hand.
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
I had thought of doing that same option. I was not sure if there would be any modifications needed Thanks
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
I've found that the amount of slop varies between the different vendors from using a variety of them on our Baja SAE cars in college, but had the best fit with the ones from Longacre Racing. If it gets too loose, I can always remove the spud later or pull another shaft from the scrap yard.
George
Goblin Guru
I use the NRG with the balls that lock into place. The steering wheel only locks in in one place. Even if you put it on 180 degree out you just spin it to lock into the correctly timed spot. If you think it make the steering wheel to close to you go back through my log and I show how to move steering wheel forward.
Brad
Brad
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
It's been a minute since my last update, but significant progress has been made. First, I dropped the oil pan to remove the end of the dipstick funnel that broke off when I had stripped the engine for paint (that I ended up not applying based on the results with my calipers).
Then I had to drill out a broken exhaust stud, also a result of stripping the engine for paint that didn't happen. As seen below, there were some issues. Nothing that a Time-Sert couldn't fix though.
Then I had to drill out a broken exhaust stud, also a result of stripping the engine for paint that didn't happen. As seen below, there were some issues. Nothing that a Time-Sert couldn't fix though.
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
After those fixes, I installed the power train.
However, my first start attempt did not go as planned.
After a lot of time wasted scratching my head wondering how my battery or starter died, I figured out that while bolting the engine accessories back on, I had connected the fusible link to the wrong terminal on the starter. Correcting that issue let to a successful first start.
However, my first start attempt did not go as planned.
After a lot of time wasted scratching my head wondering how my battery or starter died, I figured out that while bolting the engine accessories back on, I had connected the fusible link to the wrong terminal on the starter. Correcting that issue let to a successful first start.
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
While the engine started without any drama after I corrected the fusible link issue, I am not entirely without problems. As things currently sit, my radiator fan runs constantly as soon as I connect the negative terminal of the battery. This was not an issue when the fusible link was connected incorrectly, but is now. My first guess was that the relay was stuck closed, but swapping relays disproved that. Even after pulling every relay and fuse referring to a cooling fan, the radiator fan still runs. The fan is grounded to the front of the chassis and the power wire is soldered to the large blue wire from the black engine harness multiplug, as per the instructions, so I'm not sure where I went wrong. Any help here would be appreciated.
In the meantime, here's a picture of my horn button:
In the meantime, here's a picture of my horn button:
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
Before I go ahead and just wire up a switch to control the radiator fan, does anyone have any thoughts on what I did incorrectly or where to focus my troubleshooting efforts? I'd prefer the fan circuit to work as intended rather than do some sort of workaround, and I'm legitimately stumped at the moment.
Waterdriver
Goblin Guru
Check the 30A fuse for the cooling/fan. Its next to the cooling/fan 1 relay. See if its blown, replace if necessary and test.
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
I realize that it may not have been clear from the first start video, but the fan is running with the ignition in the off position.
Fan 1 fuse is good. I've pulled the fan fuses and relays and it still runs as soon as I connect the negative terminal of the battery.
My first thought was a stuck relay. Swapping relays didn't change the condition. Removing the low speed relay from the fuse box entirely also didn't change the condition. I'm not sure what the correct resistance values are for the engine coolant temperature sensor (thermistor) but at room temperature, I get about 3k ohms and after a short blast from the heat gun I get about 170 ohms, which indicates expected function regardless of the correct values (i.e., resistance should drop as temperature increases).
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Ross
Goblin Guru
Sounds like you have covered the basics. Is the ECM getting the thermistor value? (need a wiring diagram) and the sending the signal to the fan relay? If the ECM is bad, a simple Arduino project could bypass the ECM... or replace it. Maybe an issue in the wiring harness?
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Just double checking, but you used the light blue wire from this connector, right?
dfkitcar.com
First Stage Assembly Instructions
Ground cables Installing the main ground cable Instructions Use the donor ground cable to ground the battery to the battery box. Hold the battery cable against the passenger side of the battery box with the metal tab inside the large hole. Mark the center of the mount hole and drill an 11/32”...
Karter2026
Goblin Guru
Did you pull both cooling fan relays to see if that kills the fan. With the relay pulled it should not run at all. Check the green wire coming out of the fuse box (E10) make sure it is not grounded out someplace. That is the trigger wire for the fan relay switched by ground from the ecm.
k.rollin
Goblin Guru
Confirmed.Just double checking, but you used the light blue wire from this connector, right?
First Stage Assembly Instructions
Ground cables Installing the main ground cable Instructions Use the donor ground cable to ground the battery to the battery box. Hold the battery cable against the passenger side of the battery box with the metal tab inside the large hole. Mark the center of the mount hole and drill an 11/32”...
I'll check the green wire when I get home from work tonight. As it sits currently, both cooling fan relays and 30A cooling fan fuses are pulled and the fan motor still runs with the key off just as soon as I connect the battery.
Briann1177
Goblin Guru
Pull your cooling fan 1 relay and measure voltage between pins 30 and 87 on the fuse box. The relays have pin numbers on the bottom. You should get 12V. Also, pull the fuse. You should read 12V across the pins in the fuse box where the fuse plugs into. If you get anything like 0V on either of those, then that's a problem. Probably a short somewhere in the fuse box.
If the fan still runs with the relays pulled, then the green control wire will have nothing to do with it coming on or not. It's a power issue somewhere.
If the fan still runs with the relays pulled, then the green control wire will have nothing to do with it coming on or not. It's a power issue somewhere.