Manual brake conversion

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
Hey JSATX,

Do you have a pic with the lines installed? I'm interested to see the bridge between hard lines and this MC.

Thanks!
Nuker-
 

JSATX

Goblin Guru
Hey JSATX,

Do you have a pic with the lines installed? I'm interested to see the bridge between hard lines and this MC.

Thanks!
Nuker-
Sure I’ll post one when I’m home later.

But it’s the same as standard setup. I only changed the fittings out to match, didn’t have to rebend or modify the lines.
 

TheNuker

Goblin Guru
That looks really good. I think I'm going to go this route on build 2. Really cleans that area up under there too.
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
I believe I'm going to have to copy your setup! This sounds like an almost crucial modification!
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
It’s become my second most favorite modification only behind turboing it haha.
That's good to hear! Excellent job with the write-up! Should be a breeze to knock this out since you did all of the real work!
 

dastrups

Well-Known Member
I’ve been kicking the idea around of getting rid of the vacuum brake booster for some time. Finally getting around to installing the stainless braided brake lines which replace the 2 rubber GM lines and one intermidiate hard line from DF, and decided that if I was going to drain all the brake fluid anyway now was the time to make the switch.

It turns out it’s pretty straight forward. It’s more a problem of doing the research and figuring out the parts you need.

For several reasons I decided I wanted to keep the GM brake fluid reservoir. There’s really no good place to mount the smaller three individual tanks (front, rear, clutch) anyway.

Wilwood makes an out of the box solution. It’s a remote fed tandem master cylinder. 7/8” is the smallest size and that’s what you want for mechanical brakes as it increases the psi at the caliper. Part number 260-14241-BK

Next you’ll need a way to link the pedal to the master cylinder. The MC comes with a rod threaded 3/8-24. You’ll need a threaded coupler, 2 lock nuts, and a solid rod end. Now of course no one makes a direct fit rod end, I used McMaster-Carr PN 2434K51 which is the closest thing to the stock GM pushrod I could find. You’ll need to open the bore up from 3/8 to 7/16 to fit the pedal stud. Next you have to cut it down. My measurement was 2.00” from the inside edge of the bore and that’s for a stock configuration. After I make sure everything’s functioning I plan to cut it down significantly to bring the brake pedal next to the gas. But that involves modifying the brake potentiometer and I don’t want to deal with that just yet. View attachment 7761
Then it’s as simple as drilling two 3/8” holes in the brake pedal box, mounting the MC, and screwing it all together. View attachment 7763

The MC comes with standard 3/8-24 double flare fitting adapters. You’ll need to cut the old GM metric fittings off the front and rear hard lines and install standard 3/8-24 fittings. I got a dozen stainless fittings from amazon for about $8.

(To be continued....)
Love the setup! Wanting to copy this. Do you just hookup the MC to the stock reservoir?
 

Fozda

Goblin Guru
Yes, stock reservoir can still be used since it's remote mounted. However, OptimizePrime 3d printed a bracket to mount a Tilton 3 chamber reservoir where the stock one normally goes. Link to that. And I know DesertSasquatch mounted the same reservoir but in the center behind the dash bar. KLMOTORSPORTS said he's also using the same reservoir but I'm not sure where he mounted his. Lots of options when the reservoir/s is remote mounted.
I followed exactly what JSATX did to make it all work and it went in seamlessly without any issues and I love how the brake pedal feels. I would definitely recommend this conversion to everybody!
 
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OptimizePrime

Goblin Guru
Just to confirm:

1. It looks like you guys got the stainless threaded rod end bolt, #2434K51
2. The coupling nut is 1 3/4" long, #90264A470
20424


3. 3/8-24 Flared fittings for 3/16" tube for the brake lines from Amazon (here)

+ the MC itself.

Going with this to flare the fittings after cutting them off

For those looking to do this project, I'm in it for ~$270 not counting the Tilton Fluid Reservoir
 
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Rttoys

Goblin Guru
That should work for the master flare, as is probably a “standard” flare or called a double flare (Check with wilwood), but The brake junction for the front line is a bubble flare, which will require a different tool, but looks close to the same.

plus the brake line nuts are different if it’s a standard flare or bubble flare.
 

Lechlis

Well-Known Member
Below are the actual items I ordered from Amazon and McMaster Carr. Order them and you will have everything you need except the two master cylinder mounting bolts. I used 2 from the donor. You will need to bend the DF supplied brake lines a bit, but nothing excessive.

EDIT: The brake line flare tool sucks. It worked, but only just. The die slips and tries to flare off center as you crank it down. The T-handle is also too short to apply enough torque, so you end up bending them with a cheater pipe then using locking pliers on the shaft. Consider spending more money on a better kit.
 

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Mayor West

Goblin Guru
I have a cheap flare tool from Amazon that I used on my old Del Sol project car.... making brake lines was/is not something I enjoy doing, it was an absolute nightmare. Absolutely spend money on a proper brake flare tool... you get what you pay for in this situation.
 
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